Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Science confirms what intuition already knows: On snow and ice, all-wheel drive vehicles provide incorrect safety. In direct comparison to models with two-wheel drive, the risk of collision of such cars is 15-41% higher.http://feed.ne.cision.com/wpyfs/00/00/00/3E/5A/A2/wkr0011.pdf Lieb Gruß Oli

With my two cars there is an analog (in the Renault pseudo-analoge) tank indicator, which stands at the lower stop at an actual level of 5-10l. In addition, a warning beeper, in the Renault always when starting, in the Peugeot again and again with increasing frequency. The latter also knows the subtle distinction between luminous and flashing warning lamp. Both show me the residual range, but only more or less shortly before it becomes interesting. Especially in the Peugeot k This is quite useless for me. Why doesn’t the display indicate the remaining tank content in l? It may be inaccurate, but it doesn’t exactly happen when I first calculate it with estimated parameters? The on-board computer doesn’t know anything about the distance I’m going to be driving soon (as opposed to me). This has already led to an astronomical price of 70km in the middle of the night. at home, when I knew exactly that 2l would take me home safely. Actually, there were 5l left in it. Is there a car that indicates l? Or a hack for Renault Scénic/2011 or Peugeot 208/2014?

Hello in the round. In a little less than a year I wanted to start my BF17 and would then be able to drive in an automatic car only about every 2 weeks before I could then drive with 18. my independent switchcar. Now the question arises to me if I can drive in this scarcely year where I can only drive every 2 weeks times on the weekend and then only in the automatic if I can then learn to switch and then in the own switchcar as well as “V can you tell me something about it? Thank me in advance for your answers or if necessary tips!

Hello, I have the first car with radar or the car brakes by itself. I also have ESP, the car prevents strong rocking at risk. I have an electric belt strapper in the car. I would be interested now if such additional helpers absolutely have to work? If the Ajuto is getting older now, the repair/exchange would be more expensive than the car would be worth. Do you have to keep everything functional or not?

With several of our identical company vehicles with petrol engines (2011, 130,000 – 145,000 pure city kilometers), the engine control lights are almost reproducible (medium speed, light load). Legal errors: Catalyst effect too low. Nevertheless, the AU is always reached with best values, i.e. CO close to the zero limit, HC also few ppm. Now I would be interested: Are the OBD systems (catalyst test by additional lambda probe) often too sensitive out Since it concerns three identical vehicles, it should not be a single error.

Good evening, obviously my old Lancia is equipped with a “self-ventilating braking system”.There happened: the brake force regulator was a bit leaky, and since I had to wait for the new one, I just filled up brake fluidity every few days.As there was once too little inside, air came into the system, and the pressure point on the pedal wandered down (brake power was still there), with several pushthroughs he wandered up again until he then went down again (so normal S ymptome for air in the circuit) Filled everything again, pressure point remained clearly below, since one should remove the system.Later I filled again after (because again some brake fluid was lost while driving), and see there, the pressure point went again a little higher. Then later on the next time fill up there were no signs of air in the system (normal pedal resistance) at full braking power. My guess: Due to the somewhat leaky brake force regulator flowed also Brake fluid with air intakes to the outside, which was replaced by refilling with new brake fluid.Thus, the system was almost “aired” by the leaky regulator and my refilling.(At least I find no other explanation why the air in the system was suddenly gone).Or? (The controller has been replaced by the controller)

Hey guys, a little bit about my person, I’m 24 years old, I have a completed vocational training to become a motor vehicle mechatronics engineer and I’ve been studying mechanical engineering since 4Semester. I’ve been on the road in some forums for some time now and I’m constantly hitting on screwdrivers or total new entrants (lays) who have diagnostic difficulties because they lack diagnostic skills. Just these people help him by helping them with the diagnosis, I explain to them in which order a mechatronician would test the individual component, which is sometimes done without special equipment, and explain why you do it like this or what you can do with it. So far I have had great success. Often the screwdrivers and laymen do not lack understanding but approach the right approach, in addition in many forums there are statements like “I have another car but with me it was that, just exchange that once, does not cost much”, which means the Schra Now to my idea, what do you think of a chat/telephone-accompanying diagnosis in which the screwdriver/layman does the diagnostic work and together with a specialist develops the diagnosis. In the case of work that this screwdriver/lay does not trust, one could transfer it to a screwdriver/handler close by by by means of a forum. This would be to consider all in all as expert advice.

I didn’t find a more suitable area, so I’m going to post here. The following question; I have two 4000mAh Power Bank here. Unfortunately, the charging socket of one device has a wobble contact. I can solder something, but not such small components. Therefore, I have thought about the following, I have two of these Power Banks. Would it be possible to take out the battery of one and pair it with the battery of the other? If it works what I would have imagined then I would have a Power Bank with 8’00 0mAh. Only makes the electronics of the Power Bank limp? How does the device know when the battery is full? The board in it is quite small, doesn’t look like a lot of electronics. On the Power Bank it says: Reinhard (NL) 1446WR-140NL. Item no.: 17735/600036 4000mAh Power Bank with Keychain Input: DC 5V 600mA Max Output: DV 5V 1A Max

We took out a car with a few buddies and wanted to scrap the remaining ones separately. However, the Wertstoffhof makes faxes, and doesn’t even want to pay us for it n Appel and n Egg. But I’m sure that it’s worth even more, e.g. body parts, even if they are 25 years old! Some things we’re going to sell now, others will probably be brought to the scrapers for a few pennies.. How much do you get for the kilo scrap? Does this jmd in your head?

Hi guys, I have a maybe somewhat strange question: Can you determine if a service lamp has flashed once? And maybe even more so when? About the situation: My car has an engine damage at less than 50T kilometers. I was at the service, however, about 2 weeks too late. But I called and asked before that, they said that this is not a big thing. But after the engine damage you have of course pointed out that the service intervals were not maintained and that the service intervals were there. r no warranty can be applied. Therefore, my question, see above. I know that you can read out error codes etc, but that is not a real error. The car is still standing since the damage (one suspects conrod bearing damage, but nobody has opened the dock yet), after almost 1.5 years the battery is now empty and normally read over OBD2 falls out because of this, replacement battery I do not have to stand around as a non-kfzler and buy new I find for it to teue R. By the way, it’s a Dacia Duster. Thank you in advance!