Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, guys, I have the following problem and would like to know how best to approach a diagnosis. If I turn the steering wheel only slightly to the right during the ride, I sometimes hear a continuous noise as if metal rubbing on metal. That comes from the front right. The noise disappears immediately when I turn the steering wheel back into the straight position. To step into the brakes seems to have no influence on the noise. The brakes behave also unbelievably The sound does not always appear when driving to the right. It only occurs when I have already driven a longer distance by car. If I leave the car for a few minutes to hours and then continue driving and try to reproduce the noise again by steering to the right, it does not come. It only comes back after a longer journey. Do you have ideas what you should check there best? It’s just stupid that you can get the sound into a I don’t know exactly if it’s related to it, but a few days ago, after a long drive, I also suddenly had a sound on the right side like a loud crank, like a defective wheel bearing. I stopped and looked at the car. After the re-launch, this phenomenon didn’t occur again and I’ve managed to get another 200 to 300 km since then. h remember how the wheel bearing at the front left gave up its mind before it was changed: It slowly became louder and louder. I don’t have this symptoms at the front right. I have a Fiat Punto 176. In the last 15 000 km, since I have the car, nothing has been changed at the wheel bearings, brakes, shock absorbers etc. on the right side (maximum change of the wheels). I thank you for your ideas!

Good evening, today on the passenger side the xenon light just failed. Then I expanded the bulb/burner at home (whatever you call it now). I bought an Audi A6 4b 2.8l Quattro a few weeks ago. Through the Tüv he came without faults. The previous owner told me that the xenon was retrofitted. I am now looking for a few hours after xenon burner with the H1 socket, but find nothing right. Is my first car with Xenon and I am not so knowledgeable yet. I thank you already in advance and wish the rest a nice Wednesday evening.

Hello. I’m just changing the cooling water at my Fiesta and I’m just hitting very ambivalent opinions. In the circuit is quite a lot of mud (rust deposit), although a buddy has already blown me through with a pressure gun from Hazet (wash attachment). So I try to expand the termostat again and drive 3-5 times with clear water with a few km. However, when filling I’m unsure, since the buddy has finished mixed G12 and I stand here with concentrate and dest water. Should there be water in there at all, or does the frost protection have no buffer effect for the slightly acidic pH value of the water, so that I should rather take tap water? We are talking here about the tap water from Bad Kissingen (Low Franconia) which contains a bit more lime. Lg

Hello Someone knows Japan Import together? If so, I would be very grateful for experiences and tips! Unfortunately, I have never bought or sold import cars, but today some were offered for purchase and I was interested in whether it is worth it at all and with what effort to reckon with? So it is about European brands Mercedes-Benz and BMW. The cars are already all in Germany and all are left-handers. My questions are the cars still have to be If so, what costs do I have to reckon with? The cars need an expert report according to 21 StVZO and Tüv. Approx. costs? Which papers and what do I need to sell the cars in Germany? And one thing I wanted to keep in order to register it in Germany? Are the Japan import even popular in Germany? And what price range do I have to reckon with for comparison to the German vehicles? Here is a small example. piel plus: A Mercedes Benz E 350 Coupe technically and optically good condition Built 2010 89000km. My purchase price 9500€. On the internet such from Germany are offered for about 1500 to 17500 with the same equipment and running performance. What would I get realistic for such a approx. as a Japan import? I calculate about 13-13500€ is it realistic? Would I be very happy about tips and experiences. I have added some pictures so that you can see which cars it is about. dominant Mercedes Benz and BMW and a Bentley. Greetings Toni

Hello together, today I was supposed to connect an already laid charging line for a trailer to a Mercedes Sprinter, which was already under the driver’s seat ready. I got a relay pressed in the hand. A Hella battery relay with the No. : 4RC 011 152-007 But can’t rub me together as I have to tie it up. Connections A and B is clear : If the Plus line is opened with the switched off engine. What is completely unclear to me is the 4 pin plug for the control. an experience with it and can explain it to me. Image of the schematic I enclose.

Hello all, I have a Citroen DS3 VTI 120 EZ 2010. Since I drive this car only in nice weather (have still a Ford Ka as a everyday car), it is of course hardly driven in winter. For this reason I would like to buy a battery maintenance device, the Ctek mxs 5.0. The device can be connected without disconnecting the battery. However, in the manual of the DS3 it says that charging ditches are to be disconnected so that there is no harm to the electronics. The Ctek charger is all can I use the charger without causing any damage? I hope that the Citroen manual refers to “cheap” chargers. Does anyone have experience, or does this charger use itself? Thank you and greeting Primonan

Hello everyone. I bought a battery for experimental purposes today (I own a new replacement battery to use the other one for experimental purposes but don’t care).The brand of the battery is “Lotus devices” The name itself tells me garnix but for the replacement it is enough, since it also cost only 50€ for a new 60A battery I would like to know what you have installed for a battery / Verbautgehabt? How long does it hold and would you recommend it? 60A battery from Opel installed in my car, which I can recommend in good conscience. The last one was also one from Opel, 1999, and has served as replacement to this day. The new replacement is as already written by Lotus devices, which I can’t say anything about, except there is a big Germany flag on it. Vllt. knows someone this brand and can report.

Hello together, the following problem: I am currently on the road with my VW T4 in Georgia and my on-board battery has given up the spirit. This is a banner 80Ah with AGM technology. AGM because the battery is installed in the interior. I have already scrapped some accessories dealers here, unfortunately still without success. Now I would start to rattle the dealers. But this will be an infinite story. Therefore my consideration, if I knew which car manufacturers in their driving fences I could use 80AH-AGM batteries more specifically. Therefore the heading reverse search. I enter 80Ah AGM and get …… So far I only know that there is a BMW with such a battery. For tips of any kind I am very grateful. Greetings Sven

Hello together, maybe someone can give me an info here: Why are there no car seats at the car parts dealers? Have searched through countless pages, but nobody except the manufacturer offers them to… Someone’s clue? Thanks in advance…

The question is, for example, if you take the 1.6 THP 270 as a stark example for a downsizer, if this perse can’t be as robust as a 2.0 turbo or even a 3.0 liter suction cup. The power is zb at all the same (e.g.270 hp) However, probably at other speeds due to the higher torque of the turbo. Let’s just leave it alone. The alloys and mechanical changes are, of course, an important point without which a downsizing would probably not be possible. I wonder whether the pure charge and the maximum torque which is thus at an early stage and thus the medium pressure have such a negative influence that the engine makes the gap early. If a suction cup has to apply its maximum power, it achieves its maximum power. This is what I imagine to be healthier than simply artificially increasing the pressure in the combustion chamber. Similar to riding a bike.. high gear and speeding up requires significantly more power than switching down and then trampling, it is certainly more gentle to switch down. Due to the now high torque of the turbos, switching down is almost never necessary why the load would have to be correspondingly high?