Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I would like to supply my amplifier separately with power. For this I would like to plug the harness of the amplifier directly to a fuse box with the help of a power thief. Now I have problems with the integration of the wire harness and the power thief. In the appendix you see the problem. The wire harness has a kind of flat pin plug. the power thief has a kind of Cinch port. I don’t like to work on the flat pin plug because I use the cable harness as original as possible. My idea would be to cut off the connection of the current thief and solder the bare wire onto the flat pin. However, I have concerns about durability and safety. I can’t get a shrink hose over there. I don’t think it’s very good with insulation tape either. Do you have a better, clean solution to the problem?

I only know this so that for the air conditioning system an extra heat exchanger is usually mounted in front of the normal car cooler. Ideally so that the fan of the car cooler also pulls air there. Why not give the heat to the cooling liquid? With the engine oil you do this also with everyday cars instead of an oil/air heat exchanger (oil cooler). Or do this already make manufacturers?

Hello Motortalker ;-)) I am still getting my Fronti TÜV-ready and have discovered a new problem. The “medium” track rod (quasi the between the wheels) has a damaged rubber cuff on the steering wheel side and the “total” part has to be out. The rod is stored on “four” joints, where exactly what should be repaired causes problems. The joint is “something” dimmed (because attached to a strut to the steering gear) than on the passenger side, the g I did not quite fit the puller I have, I could easily solve the other three joints with it. Because the puller slipped constantly I had then applied the somewhat more brutal method. I screwed the crown nut (wrongly around) again on the standing bolt and knocked on it with a medium heavy hammer, without success. I had concerns of the bolts could be bent or damaged, so I first gave it up to continue to tighten the part like this. other method to get out such an unruly part? Would be grateful for a decided tip! Pictures to it, in the appendix.

For decades, in vehicle tests, among car fans and also motor-talkers about engines, questions about torque progression, joy of rotation, gear design, response and cold running behavior and so on and so on and so on… Now I wonder if this will soon happen when, as politicians and industry assume, electromobility really starts off, everything will become completely irrelevant because every e-car is more or less the same from the engine anyway and basically runs automatically (d he question whether hand switches, automatic converters or direct clutch gearboxes are already missing; just as problems after the cold start, torque gradient is probably not as relevant as before since the simplest electric cars push from the stand properly)… – Super-silent is every electric motor too, noise factor in the interior is at best still the wind cutness of the body. So where are the differences? Clearly in the power consumption of course, in the chassis tuning, in design, however, how clear are the differences in driving in terms of the engine itself? Are there any differences that you can discuss at all? How do you see this…?

I made the mistake of ordering a battery in the online shop. In the meantime I was sent 4 pieces, of which at least 3 did not survive the transport in the optimal condition. The first one was already “destroyed” by DPD, the second one arrived, but only lasted a few months (I don’t know if this could have had a transport damage too), in the following two replacement deliveries a different amount of acid occurred. I noticed that unlike the first one, the battery had no longer a yellow stopper as a transport safety device. So the design of the battery was actually changed, so that the corresponding degassing hole no longer seems to exist at all. Could this be one reason for the new models to run out even more easily? Does the ventilation hose really not have to be connected anymore, or is the hole only in another place, so that I can use the And the following question: Since I don’t want to go on playing the game for ever, I wonder if one could somehow bring these maintenance-free batteries back to a state in which one can use them?! The batteries are of the type Moll Kamina Start. In the appendix you can see in a picture that the vent breaker is no longer present with the new (the right two).

Since I like to drive short distances, I think about whether I should recharge the battery on the charger from time to time. I am now unsure if I should disconnect the battery from the car, because I have read in forums of several people that they have the battery connected, but a well-known car specialist said that you should not do this because the control unit could then take damage. I really hate to take out the battery, because this is because The answer depends also on the type of charger and the charging voltage (which I could measure before with a charge in the developed state), or is it basically the same with all chargers? PS: Would it be possible to permanently attach a cable to the battery (in the trunk) with an adapter to which it is easier to connect the charger, or if it were not possible to connect the charger to the battery (in the trunk) or if it was not possible to connect the charger. Is this a safety-relevant part that should not be changed in this way?

Hello, I was with my Cupra Leon 1.5 eTSI for axle measurement, because it pulls slightly to the right with exactly horizontal steering wheel. To drive straight ahead I always have to steer slightly to the left. For me this is not normal and especially on longer distances quite strenuous on the highway. The phenomenon occurs both with the original summer bikes as well as with the winter accessories wheels alike. The two Cupra dealers with which I was teeming that everything was in order e and a certain tolerance of the steering wheel would be normal up to 3 degrees and therefore there is no lack and therefore no cost assumption by Seat is guaranteed. In addition there are the classic excuses like inclined road, one could have driven where against it etc. I then finally insisted on having to carry out a survey at my expense and see there (protocol attached) are actually all values within the green tolerance up to the rear run in front rec hts. To this end, the dealer told me that the follow-up is not adjustable and that there is only a little bit of medial and that it is not. To my knowledge, this is also correct, that the follow-up can only be mediated something. Now my question, may the deviation of the follow-up be responsible for pulling to the right or why is the steering wheel then slightly to the left when driving straight (see also photos)? Ädern at Seat/Cupra is unfortunately not an individual case according to my researches and many of them are lost as state of the art etc. The car now has 5000KM on it and I can rule out driving against it somewhere. “problem” exists since the takeover of the vehicle.

I repeatedly stumble through online services that claim to be able to provide the history of a vehicle when specifying the chassis number – probably if there is one. How do these services work? (example: https://www.carvertical.com/en) I just phoned the DAT (Deutsche Automobil Treuhand GmbH) because they offer to deliver vehicle details via VIN. On my request, whether the history is also available (accidents, import vehicle, etc…), I got the counter question w How can services such as… – https://www.carvertical.com/en – https://en.vin-info.com/ – https://www.automoli.com/en – https://myfreevin.com/en/ the service through which VIN/FIN can provide the history? Does anyone have experience? I’m really curious.

Hello On my car (BMW E30, Jg. ’89, no check control or anything else) I intend to tap the original rear light cables by means of a universal e-set (power thieves or soldering) and thus supply the trailer with lighting. Question: If there is no trailer on it, and a flasher bulb fails, it is known that the turn signal becomes faster on the side. Then, when an additional flashing light (follower on) is attached, the turn signal would have to slow down? Is that so? If yes, then if a trailer flashing light fails, would the “normal” flashing speed be reached again? Should this be the case, or do I need a trailer flashing relay which also generates a normal flashing frequency with a trailer? Then it would be too slow again with a suspended trailer? Either a relay is designed to supply 2 (without trailer) or 3 bulbs (incl. trailer flashing) per side, and from this load the frequency is also derived? Then it will doc h always only turn off the trailer or turn on the trailer correctly? How does that work? I was told elsewhere that the flash frequency will be faster in case of failure of a trailer flashing light to indicate the failure. How should the car know if a flashing light has failed on the trailer or if there is simply no trailer clutch installed. That would be the same electrically?

Short technical question (+ car details below) Can a car moving less than 30k KM in 5.5 years develop damage to seals and any other parts that increase the risk of medium-term mechanical damage in such a way that it should be excluded from a purchase solely for risk reasons? The theory behind this is that because of the short distances, the car has probably never or (too) rarely been brought to full operating temperature and all seals and/or other “Weic The car I have in my eye (see title) ran less than 30k KM in 5.5 years. It was a pure city vehicle for the work path (20-30 min), was also just outside. He got TÜV with 2 defects: – Brake force difference between the wheels of the front axle: ~12% – Tyres are down ADAC used car check has resulted: – Underside looks like the new car – Increased vehicle Rschleiss on the outside of the re front tyre. This indicates that there might have been some adjustment on the axle. An axis measurement is attached as soon as new tyres are on it. Thank you for your opinions!