Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello friends, I am an entry-level screwdriver on the car (but I have already screwed on industrial systems) wondering if some brands and models are easier to repair, only with “old cars” and (!) small cars, i.e. year of construction circa until 2008, so without the whole electronic sounds I’m starting with Opel, and I know the Astra and the Corsa and now I know “where what is.” At least at Ford and Mazda I looked under the hoods and at least know where what is. I can tell you how different some things are made with each brand, e.g. the side “flat” water pump at Opel, which in others is a “big” device, such as the starter. When changing the chain, the oil tank has to go down now, in the Ford Fiesta (mk5) I saw in a video how seemingly “tireless” the timing belt was exchanged. I heard from friends that Mercedes can be repaired rather cumbersomely or is this just an acclimatization effect, because you know the “known” and then Is Opel really “easy” to repair than other mackerel and models? Can you make an approximate list, which brands (or models) are basically simple or difficult, because components are unfavorably arranged? Or is it like eating “tasting” ? The question is that I concentrate on a few brands, because you can’t do everything today. And then which two to three brands should I take.

Since I haven’t seen this ranking yet, I think it’s time to create a ranking of the “legendary rosters” here. I think you can start at the earliest in the 1960s, because the problem became really acute there because of the rising street salt. As with the Oskar award I thought who wants can introduce different categories for the individual “winners”, i.e. best rusters of the 1980s, best foreign rusters, sportli chster Roster etc… But everyone like him wants of course. I can think of some legendary (false) constructions, especially in the 1970s, around which wild stories roam on the subject of “rust”. I’m curious if they are called the same and what comes to mind when it comes to older or newer cars, which have distinguished themselves by particularly “good” rusting.

Hello With our mini a trailer coupling has been mounted afterwards.Everything was perfect.Now we noticed today that on the bicycle carrier on the left the brake light and the reversing do not work.Did put the carrier then to another car, and there everything worked.Can you look for something….Contact spray I sprayed already into the clutch

Hello, I have searched in vain for a regulation that the passing light ZWINGEND is asymmetric. Historical vehicles or also motorcycles drive (first partly) with symmetrical light, exactly as often road cleaning vehicles etc. From my point of view, the asymmetry is a desired CAN regulation, but no regulation – or is there such a regulation? I ask because I move my RHD car “symmetrically” and thus also came through the TÜV – but how Does this look like it in other countries, e.g. the Czech Republic? Does anyone know reliably whether there are mandatory regulations here (Czech Republic) in this regard? Thank you in advance.

Moin, I have a defective climate condenser. Since the exchange is not quite cheap and I want to make sure that there are no follow-up costs, I would like to know, of course, if one can test the plant before the exchange so that one knows that it also works after the exchange. I was at a workshop, which meant that they can check it. Later, however, it was said that somehow it was not possible. Do you have experiences there? Something else about the history: The car was already bought with defective climate. When I picked him up, the air conditioning system was running and everything was fine. I guess she was only refilled regardless of the defective capacitor and then ran until the refrigerant was gone again. I don’t know if this is a sign that except the condenser everything is ok, or not. (Since the seller no longer exists, I can’t tear anything and stay on the problem myself… Yay) Maybe k Greetings, E.T.chen.

Hello, I would be interested in how gears are fixed nowadays? There are carriers, holders, supports and bearings. In general, besides the flange on the engine block, there are 2 to 3 other mounting points in the car, right? In the VW Bus T4 there was the pendulum support as part of the large product upgrade of VW from 1996 on. See Google Search “T4 Wiki pendulum support”Click here What advantages did this technical development have? Less vibrations and noises will be Transfer to the body? Transfer Bzw more damper? What are the advantages? Has the pendulum bearing for transmissions prevailed? Is it still installed today?! Or is it still installed in 2015 – from factory? At Ford, Mercedes, Renault, GM, Toyota and many other manufacturers. Is there still the pendulum bearing today? Rare or often? In the VW Bus T4 it was 1 fixing point of a total of 3 or 4 (depending on the type of transmission), next to the flange on the engine. The others were holders and carriers, us w. consisting of rubber metal bearings. Partly also (if necessary later) hydro bearing. Thanks and greetings, Rex

Hello together A few weeks ago I got a digital battery charger for a new Exide battery. Problem is spark flight when I connect the charger minus cable to the Minus pole. Charger is not in the socket yet. Presumably it is because the charger turns on over the battery (display goes on). When connecting the Kfz side plus and minus cable is not a spark flight. Could here a simple light switch (snurinter switch) in the charger Minu The display only lights up when I press the switch. In the case of the negative cable, the amperes shouldn’t play a role for the switch?

Hello, every 100th Threat felt an LED theme, but I won’t find answers to my questions. I’m going to ask here…. I’m looking for the interior LEDs to replace my conventional light bulbs. But it’s not supposed to be any 08-15, but those with better quality. What do I mean by: – Ra (Cri) >80, better 90 ….. so not so monochrome, but a wider color spectrum – 4000 – 6000 K color temperature…..blue discolight or other strong I don’t want to be noticed, better between lamp and daylight. – at least 50% more luminous flux (lumen) than the lamp to be replaced – uniform all around illumination as with the filament lamp, no spot can someone recommend me the above criteria? as replacement e.g. for – Soffitte 10W – W5W / W2,1×9,5d – W16W / W2,1×9,5d

Moin together, I’ve been building up an interest in cars lately and would like to learn more about it, because I would like to screw myself around on my own car later on. I’ve already looked at the basic things, so how the engine and so on works. Now I would like to go further into the topic, so that I’ll be able to fix something myself or replace something. I’ve often had the method ”Learning by d oing”, but I’m not able to get to a car or try out a car myself at the age of 15 (the only thing I’ve done before is to change the tires with my father). That’s why I wanted to ask if there’s any way to inform me about the topic of car with books or other sources, and then try to apply this knowledge to my own car in practice, if I then fix something. I’d be happy about a few tips. Thanks already in advance

Hello together, I remember that our cars in the 70s-90s were mostly through (rusted…) after a few years. Since the years of construction > 2000 they have generally held 10+ years (with a few kilometers) without major flaws. If you don’t put it on to drive an older car at all costs and is not even the great screwdriver, but simply a cheap still relatively reliable car – how long can you then the cars of the last years in general for example, a VW UP of 2014 with 60ps petrol and 100,000 km on the clock. (how likely) Does the next 10 years and still 100,000 km? thank you, Andy