Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

A question without specific vehicle reference only because the thought came to me: Would it be possible to exchange worn-out tripod joints from right to left, assuming that they are only worn on the forward loaded flanks at each time? Would they then be able to perform the same mileage again on the other flanks?

Moin had a colleague with my car do a test drive today because he wants to buy the car. The car has front drive. He wanted to test the acceleration, but started to turn left and gave full speed. He thought it was good…I didn’t think so. The tires didn’t freak out now, but the car also has anti-slip. I wouldn’t think of anything like that in my dream, so to deal with my property but he doesn’t know any pain. test before he buys it, but well… now the question is, am I too hypersensitive? Can such a car do such a thing without further ado?

Moin Together, after 80,000km and frequent on/off my driver belt is slightly worn at the edge. Question is to what extent this condition (see picture) actually influences the safety, i.e. risk of tearing. Of course, the TüV has to monetize this, but an exchange also costs less than 500 euros. I want to protect the affected place first with a protective pole against further stress. What is your opinion on this? Many greetings, Gerd

I have always noticed that larger engines have lower speeds at the same speed than smaller engines. And yes, knowing that the translations from manufacturer to manufacturer are different, my finding also refers to the engines of one and the same series of vehicles. I was able to make my findings particularly well with the following comparison series: E-Class W211 E200 compressor (1.8L), 5-speed converter automatic E-Class W 211 E240 (2.6L), 5-speed automatic converter E-Class W211 E320 (3.2L), 5-speed automatic converter 3 Series E46 316i (1.8L), 5-speed manual switch 3 Series E46 318i (1.9L), 5-speed manual switch 3 Series E46 320i (2.2L), 5-speed manual switch 3 Series E46 323i (2.5L), 5-speed manual switch What I thought about: It can’t be that the manufacturers have their own gearbox with different translations for each motorization. My conclusion: The crankshaft of the engine has an output. there (first) gear is the point that varies in size. Thus, the gear is always the same and always multiplied by the same factors. Only the respective engine delivers its own “initial” value. Ask yourself: Is my conclusion correct?

Hello together, with my Golf 7 (5 years, 100 tkm, mostly long distance with higher speed) I have always taken care to brake the brake discs well dry before parking. (If you arrive in a city center it is difficult.) So far the original brake discs are still on it. Now suddenly the rear brake discs show terrifying wear: A relatively wide ring on the outside of the brake disc is obviously no longer reached by the pads, and is too large I’m also surprised because the last few weeks hardly salt has been scattered, and yet so massive rust is visible, even though the car was stopped dry (but then 2 days in the rain). Then braked down five times on a slope track: After that photo 3+4, and the wet rims slightly steamed at the rear, but not at the front. From this I conclude stronger heat development than normal with the rear discs. – what can the The electric handbrake is basically active. – can you save something here, or are new discs due? In a short time appointment at the VW workshop… is it worth trying here in a free workshop because of turning off or the like? – what can you do besides dry brakes to save the discs? Preservative sprays or the like? Thank you!

I drive a Volvo 850, year 1996 and my wife a VW T5, year 2004. At the age there are of course from time to time repairs. Small stuff I usually do myself, with bigger problems the car goes to the workshop. Currently there are more and more problems in the procurement of spare parts from Volvo or VW. Much is no longer available there, so that the workshops serve their main suppliers. Recently both workshops hear that the quality of the delivered parts is I had a lot of problems with a belt tensioner, including straps. After the exchange was quiet for 2 weeks, then undefinable sounds began. Then the straps were changed and for a week there was rest until it was loud. Then the spanner (The role had a big game) was changed and now it is quiet again. The boss said that he has never had so many problems before. e with new parts and regularly go back parts. I hear the same statement from our VW workshop. I would be interested in what your experiences are. And whether on the car parts market really only poor quality can be obtained.

When ordering the oil for an oil change in one of the well-known shops, I ask myself, we usually dispose of the waste oil. The seller is obliged to take back the oil, but in contrast to the new one, waste oil is classified as hazardous goods and therefore can only be shipped in special containers (the product packaging is not enough). The exorbitant shipping costs would then completely eat up the cost advantage. Information about this (except that the dealer has to withdraw the oil and a reference to waste oil disposal companies). Is there besides burying in the forest or parking on a motorway parking place also an easily feasible legal possibility to get rid of the oil again. If I look at the indicated waste oil disposal companies, then I can usually specify the quantity (a little excessive) in tons and ask for an offer for the collection. It is clear to me that when calculating the price of the waste oil disposal companies Shipping prices are taken into account that practically nobody uses the disposal, but more than 1-2€ can not really make up for this. Of course, I’m not necessarily looking for a free solution.

Hello, with my Kodiaq (200hp TDI, Facelift, year 2022) the battery is constantly empty. Actually, if the car is not moved for two days, it will no longer start on the third day. Come extra circumstances – e.g. the car is loaded for holidays over 2-3 hours and the door is open – it happens even without the car being moved for longer. The car was therefore already several times with the dealer – also over several days. “Found” nothing, where I am sorry he does not know what was “wanted” and how. Unfortunately I could never speak one directly from the workshop, but only the lady at the reception, who could not or did not want to tell me any details. It is a company car and I can unfortunately not drive to another workshop. Even if it is actually a tragedy, I now try to narrow down the cause myself in order to point out the workshop specifically to the cause. I therefore measured the battery voltage over a long period of time. Here the observations summarized: – completely fully charged (after a very long motorway ride) the voltage is approx. 12,65V – the battery voltage falls in total rest (car complete, everything is off, also no chargers or similar in the sockets) approx. 0.2V per 10 hours – that can be observed every night – if without only short distance is driven (several times on day 5 to 15km) the voltage tends to go down. – at approx. 12.2V the engine no longer starts. D he calculation that after a maximum of 3 days the car will no longer start, no matter how the battery was full at the beginning, is fully in line with reality… – there is never a warning before that the voltage is too low – but is always from now on no engine start possible. How would you rate the measured values? Is the quiet consumption 0.2V per night “normal” or actually a clear indication that a consumer in the car sucks the battery empty? Thanks for your help! honzaaa

The key is on On, but the engine is not started (short start position for the starter to turn). I turn off the dome and switch on to the training course. After that I release the foot brake. The vehicle gains speed (30km/h) Fall A I insert the first gear and let the clutch come. The car slows down to about 20km/h, while the speed is 3000 km/h. After a few seconds the engine runs. What happened? The control unit recognized the enough high speed and injected fuel that would be ignited. (roll energy would be needed as a starter) Fall B I insert the reverse gear and let the clutch come. What happens now? Does the engine now turn “wrong” around and is also supplied with fuel? Or does the control unit lock this? If the engine “back” would run I could run with the gear R forward and with the gä nsen 1-5 go backwards? Thank you for your answers waldeiche

Hello and a sunny afternoon on everyone’s side! First of all: I hope that I am not completely out of place with my question/concern. Otherwise I ask for forgiveness already now. I just want to get another opinion on this. So: My parents will soon have their garage roof rehabilitated – with bitumen plates (which will be blown up), gravel, etc. Before, of course, existing foil, gravel, etc. will be removed professionally. Now to the “problem”: In said garage there is an abm old (currently incapacitated) vehicle, that unfortunately can not even be pushed on the road (since deregistered). According to the craftsmen, the vehicle can simply stop in the garage, because only outside the garage (on the roof) is worked and nothing will get through and thus be damaged. How do you think about it? Thank you and again sorry for the inappropriate question for this category..