Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

With regard to measuring spindles as on the right side of the picture, the online trade (everywhere where such a spindle can still be found) thinks it is for measuring the frost protection in the cooling circuit. Just one copy I have ready and recently (last 2 days) used it for testing the frost protection in a car where G48 / BMW LC87 is used. Measurement shows protection from frost lower than 40 degrees – below scale. That is what raises questions. In November BMW-Werkstatt in the cooling system has the Frostschu The final 3 refills were made with Glysantin G48. Something is not right with measurement, only.. what could it be? Fear of using the car now, the concentration should be really so high. Fzg-total history does not include a renewal of the cooling fluids. tz measured to level 35 degrees. Just before the workshop appointment the liquid had to be refilled, Dest.-water was used, up to 250 mL. After the workshop appointment it needed to refill again, a total of 2 to 3 times. All that is known in this respect to the owner, at the same time user, are the above mentioned refills. Incidentally, measuring the frost protection with the other spindle on the enclosed image has brought about approximately the same results.

What do you think of this?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSi6J-QK1lw Today, the shock absorber systems in many vehicles consist of front and rear shock absorbers, which are attached to the underside of the vehicle. Thus, the developers were able to install the BOSE® suspension system with little adjustment effort into existing vehicles. And this also means that it is possible to use the BOSE® suspension system in existing vehicle concepts instead of conventional shock absorbers. front modules of the BOSE® Suspension System use a modified McPherson suspension leg and the rear modules a double transverse handlebar to hang the linear electromagnetic motor between body and wheel. Rotating rod springs take on the static weight of the vehicle. In addition, the BOSE® Suspension System uses a vibration damper on each wheel to keep contact with the road. Unlike conventional shock absorbers that pass vibrations to the body u and thus reduce the comfort, the vibration damper is not directly connected to the body and thus ensures maximum passenger comfort.

The days I wanted to finally put my tweeters in Holubal and align them decently, as they are currently lying loosely on the dashboard. Now, of course, the question arises; how do I fix them so that they can hold them, but if necessary they can be removed without residue? The surface in my A3 8L is also relatively rough, with “rills”. Can take a photo tomorrow. That is a liquid glue would put itself in the cracks. I think of something like Powe rstrips or real silicone. Secondly, you should be able to remove eig. on one piece. Do you have better ideas?

Hello, how much volts should a new battery have at least? I ask because I bought a new starter battery yesterday, because my previous one was so weak that after about 30 minutes of heating the cars didn’t want to start any more. The old one was about 5 years old. I bought a 75Ah now and had my multimeter this morning. Had driven for a while yesterday and then switched off overnight. 12,4 volts. Shouldn’t it be anymore? O I’m wrong about him?

Moin, the old windscreen wipers on my vehicle (were already at the time of purchase) were over, so new ones had to come. Bosch were on it, so it should be Bosch again, why not? For my Astra H the AeroTwin, so bought and mounted fit. On the first rain ride I noticed that the windscreen wipers always squeaked during the change of direction. Not nice, but also not completely bad. On the advice of a friend I once had windshield wiper and Sche ibe cleaned, first they squeaked, which then went away after a few minutes. So I then had a week or a little longer complete rest in the rain and was happy. Then the car stood 3 days and suddenly the windshield wipers squeak like hell. So disc cleaned with alcohol, windscreen wiper dismantled and under running water cleaned neatly. Problem was solved, for a rain ride. The next day (today) the windshield wipers squeak louder than ever before, not only at Change of direction, but over the whole movement bandwidth; terrible. Tip from the Internet: thoroughly free the disc with silicone remover from fat, wake and other residues, unfortunately no success. What can I do? With every other driver the windscreen wiper seems to work silently and I have to beat myself with such a crap, I get aggressive with every disc wiper movement and little bit more. That can’t be. Of course, they were not used dry or on ice on the disc or anything else. I despair!

I don’t find anything on this subject, so I ask the professionals here for their opinion. The facts play with a common Varta Silver Dynamic 77Ah 780A in a vehicle year 2000, 1.9L diesel with 120A alternator without electronic snaps like start/stop etc. My knowledge is: -> Rest current if over 12.5V … all good -> Charging current if over 13.5V … all good if I now hold my measuring device at the battery poles with running motor, is indicated for 1sec 13,49V and then immediately 12,79V (without consumer). If I turn on the consumers like light, rear window heating, heating etc., the display falls to 11,77V. That is, every time I go with the measuring ends new to the poles, there is always the 13,49 or sometimes 13,5 or 13,45V for 1 sec and then it falls to the 11 or 12V. What is it? Measuring device? Battery? alternator (which has a brand new controller installed). I miss this 13 coma still something volt permanently, especially if all the vehicles are equipped with a new control unit. the measurement falls to below 12V.

Hello all, I have been thinking about the upcoming low temperatures, especially in Germany, where it can go well below -11 degrees Celsius. I know that the freezing point of AdBlue is -11 degrees. This raises the question, what effect this has on the driving readiness of a vehicle, if the AdBlue is completely frozen. Is there anyone here who has had experience with it? Can the engine still start with frozen AdBlue at all o there are problems with frozen/broken AdBlue lines?

Now before winter I charged my 5 year old AGM battery externally over night, because the tester indicated charging.This morning after the disconnect, the tester on it and then he said the battery is good. This afternoon I stuck the tester again and then he says swapping (exchanges), although the values are almost identical. Works everything, except on start stop, that works only after several 100km highway and then mostly only 2-3 days How does the test rate Should I be taking care of a new AGM battery?

Hello, like every year I have problems with foggy windshield from the inside around this time and in the winter in the morning again. My smallest car unfortunately has no air conditioning. Until the heating gets the disc free it takes about 1km. In the stand-warming is forbidden and my choleric neighbors pay attention to it also penetratingly (typically German halt). Only with a disc sponge wiping also does not bring much for clear view. I often hang the first km with the head below, where the Sche ibe starts to become free by the ventilation. I have also once got 120W additional heaters for the car socket, which I place on the dashboard and blow on the disk. The hardware could not be avoided. I have also cleaned the disk well, as well as household appliances such as sinks or shaving foam. They do not prevent the fogging. Probably the whole disk has to be changed times? It is now already 15 years old. What do you think of heating mats with timer clock, which you might somehow press the disc from the inside and let it heat 10-15min before departure? Probably that’s not enough to keep the disc fog-free afterwards? I’ve already been used to tear up both windows about 1km before the finish, so that the warm air, saturated with moisture, is replaced again and can no longer cool down with the subsequent cooling. So I actually prevent a little, d the windshield freezed from the inside (which I often had). Actually, you should take out the floor mats that got wet through the shoes. The towing along every time is very useful. The fogging immediately after driving off (probably also through my breathing air), one probably does not prevent either.

Dear engine talk community, I did a test drive with an Audi A3 today (https://suchen.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=377550217). It was all tip top, I’m generally thrilled. Except that on the inside of the oil cover was this white slime. Photo: https://i.imgur.com/k8hh9P9.jpg (or attachment) There was also a relatively large amount of white smoke/Qualm out of the exhaust (but only at the beginning). I approached the seller and he pushed it to that that the car came out of the exhaust (but only at the beginning). I find the price of 20980 € also relatively cheap compared to other Audi A3 vehicles with similar data (kilometre level, year of construction, equipment) on mobile.de. That makes me a little suspicious. However, I am a car noob and wanted to ask about this forum, in which I was so far only silent reader. How do you value the white surface on the photo (link above or also in the appendix)? Look forward to your input, thank you already!