Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, I had an experience a few days ago and wanted to hear your opinion. While I was on the highway, the engine control light started to flash and the car was jerking. I had to drag the car to a nearby free workshop and leave the key to wait for the repair. A few hours later I called and learned that the ignition module and spark plugs had to be replaced. The workshop did this without my condition. * 1.5 hours “System diagnosis engine electronic, ignition high voltage parts renewed” (127 euros net) * 1 ignition module (396 euros net) * 4 spark plugs (56 euros net) I wonder if this is a reasonable calculation and if the workshop was right to replace the parts without my consent. It is a Opel Astra J 1.6 115ps Thank you in advance for your feedback. advice and advice!

Servus, the following situation: Golf 4 (74kw), battery is very weak, car does not start, 2 days later there was no more power. I got a starter, the charging voltage was 14V. Then I drove 60min and turned off the car, 4 days later the battery was completely empty again. This is a few days ago, the battery has now 7.3V, my charger does not recognize the battery and stays in standby mode. Question: If I connect the empty battery back in the car, I can use the Ru measure current to find out if some electricity sucks? Or is it not meaningful due to the low charge and I have to carry it out with a full battery? In addition, since I probably have to buy a new battery anyway, how much cold test current is recommended for Germany or in winter Austria (so at night it gets cold) ?

Good afternoon, are AGM batteries sold as starter batteries also usable as second batteries? As second batteries one should use “Deep Cycle” batteries, this corresponds to an AGM/GEL battery. But are all AGM batteries “Deep Cycle”? From my point of view, an AGM battery remains an AGM battery, no matter what it is sold, or am I wrong? Thank you Gruss

Hello! How is the wear limit for brake drums to be interpreted? Does it mean “As long as this limit has not yet been reached when installing new pads, you can use the brake drums again.” Or “If new brake pads are installed, this limit must not be exceeded even during the life of the new pads, so that you should replace if you are already close to the limit.” Example: Internal diameter new: 203 mm Max. rotation specified by the manufacturer measure: 204,5 mm When replacing the brake pads, you measure 204,3 mm with the used drums, so you almost reach the limit. Can you then use the drums again a set of drum brake pads or should you replace them? What can happen if you use the drums and the wear limit has been exceeded? I’m curious about your answers.

Hello together Our car 2 1/2 years 22000 km has, after heavy braking, uneven grinding noises. We had it on Friday in the workshop to change tires, and today we noticed it, after we were out of the city. Of course we braked a few times fully (from 70 km/h to 10 km/h) in the to locate the noise. After a few 100 meters the noises were gone. After the last strong braking I drove about 1 km to the garage and de When I went out, I noticed that the rims were getting quite hot. I could not touch the wheel nuts in particular. However, it didn’t stunk or anything like that. Question 1: Can grinding have something to do with changing the tyre? Question 2: can I claim that? The car still has a warranty and was changed to the tyre in the brand workshop where we bought it. Question 3. Do the wheel hubs / bearings contract such temperatures? The Sc Hey, you’ve got a good temperature going on, haven’t you?

Hello, I have a problem on the car which slowly gets to my mind. I was now with so many measurements and it just doesn’t get better. That was the third workshop now, the first did not accept the complaint at all, but sent money back and away, the second tried it twice. And now the third. Problem: The car always wants to drive to the left, has to steer constantly. Steering wheel stands slightly diagonally (straight exit, it is then slightly steered left) and at The car gets nervous, just doesn’t go straight. No, the LR is not wrong, the grain mark on the spindle agrees with the marking on the steering wheel skeleton (there is one side of the plant). In the appendix the measurement protocol of the measurement, as well as a quick test of the ADAC. The chassis has now been checked several times, it is always all possible. Also understandable, because both lateral handlebars, carrying joints, track rod heads (inner joints are play-free) are renewed . Dom bearings, shock absorbers as well. Oh yes, tires as well. The wheel hubs have no hit (measuring clock), the wheel bearing game at the HA is OK. Only the rear axle rubbers are slightly soft, but according to every workshop mechanic i.e. – they are good, but no longer defrosting. But will they change nevertheless – only… is the rear axle “crumb”? Because if yes… then I just get another and miss the new bearing. Or is it due to the axle cones? The Vento has a V at the rear. ==Notes====External links==

Hello, I am looking for the best-accelerated vehicles, on both 2 and 4 wheels, except Dragster vehicles. First of all, the values “0-200”, as well as “0-300” are relevant to me. At the very front are the Formula 1 and MotoGP vehicles, are the following values realistic here? 0-200: 5.5 seconds 0-300 10 seconds Which vehicles outside of these racing series could follow these values?

Hello my 10 watt interior lighting completely unloaded my only 3 year old Varta B32 Starterakku. My attempts to charge it again with various normal electronic chargers and the alternator of my Micra K11 I get it even after weeks no more over 12 volts. (How?) is there anything else to save (I have a battery master) or do I need a new starterakku ? My email requests at Varta or their battery distribution have remained unanswered, with the hotline- Teleon number never goes to anyone … Greetings to all readers, Thanks to all answerers,

Hello, my 2006 Porsche Cayenne turbo was about 1.5 months unused in the hall. After that I wanted to connect my Ctek charger, because the car was completely powerless. Result: The (correctly connected) charger only indicates that it is switched on and after some time goes into a kind of standby mode – as if no battery was connected. The charger is fine and charges just another vehicle without errors. Even with completely defective batteries it showed so far The battery in question is 1 year old and has never been deep-loaded, there is no frost in the hall. Can a car battery (without being hacked with the axe ;-)) break so that it is not even possible to use a circuit? Or is the problem in my car elsewhere? In the Cayenne, the battery is hard to access under the driver’s seat, which is why it is not yet available. but the charger was connected via the intended poles in the engine compartment. Thank you for your support!

Hi am new here, I don’t know very much about cars. Nevertheless, I hope to find some good solutions here, because I like my car very much and I’m not ready to give it up like that. The following happened to me… I brought my car, Audi a6 4b, 4,2l, limousine, bj 2002, automatic (I hope that’s enough information ) into the workshop to change gear oil (for the following reason, my car is already a bit older and good care keeps you young), than I think it would be n picked up again everything went great, switched smoothly and without any problems. After about 2km it started that he switched off (he has never done so) a little later then only in the transmission emergency program. I was told back to the workshop there how dirty and full of spasm the oil was probably (quick about it was not the talk at the pick-up) but they look at it. In the evening then the call gearbox broken, cost 2500-3000 euros…. You would have read it out like that. What do you say??? Ir I don’t feel good about this…