Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello together, I had the track set (front axle). This was a bit set. In the protocol I noticed that the track of the rear axle (left) before setting was within the tolerance ranges and after setting was no longer. The workshop informed me on demand that when setting the front axle the values of the rear axle could change automatically without that on the rear axle something was set and I would have in this case the one point I was not aware of that otherwise I would have commissioned it in this way, especially since it should have cost only 10 € more. What interests me: Why do the values of the rear axle adjust when the front axle is set? I thought the rear axle is the trailing axle and then the front axle is aligned. In case the question arises: With my car the rear axle can also be set. Thank you in advance.

Hello, my question as in the title, reason is that “allegedly” the ignition coils were leaking and water has come to the candles this has cleared itself with rust on the candles. Now was calculated for over 400€ for exchange of the 4 candles and 2 of the coils and troubleshooting. However, I am of the opinion the wear part which according to the maintenance interval are not yet on the warranty belong especially for the vehicle a long-term guarantee has been completed. Are I right there? Thanks already in advance for helpful answers

Moin together, on our Mercedes GL petroler the original installed Webasto heater Thermo Top V no longer reacts. (part number A1645001498) The fuses are in order and the Stardiagnosis (Mercedes program) only gives me this as error: Code 9000: The control unit A6n1 (control unit STH) is defective. Large cinema. 🙂 Since I have already had experience with the installation of 2 heaters in the past, I fixed the board / control unit of the heater. How can I test the part now, or is there a replacement for it? Are the control units of the Evo heater identical? P.s. Burned looks nothing on the board at first.

Hello Porscheaner, I brought the following question here from the A1 GB forum, because I received almost no feedback there (is probably very technical but less administratively knowledgeable): we wanted to allow our 2020 A1 35 TFSI DSG CityCarver in Germany (the car has been running on a French diplomatic license plate since 11/2020). The registration service informed me that this was not possible because “the emission class expired”. From the point of view of the registration service, the It is a formality that can be fulfilled by the dealer by way of an exception. Unfortunately, Audi itself is completely covered (I only received a process number) and the dealer is not responsible or unable to do so. So is there currently without support. Who can tell me what this emission certificate is about? What basis does it allow to bypass an expired emission class by way of an exception? Thank you for your knowledge transfer, cheers.

Hello, I would like to point out the following problems in this topic: According to the EU Regulation 2019/1148 (here as full text: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/…/?uri=CELEX%3A32019R1148&%3Bfrom=EN ) the private purchase of various chemicals over a certain concentration is prohibited from 1.2.2021. Among them also sulfuric acid >15% concentration, which is used for refilling car batteries. Before the 1.2.2021 acquired stocks can still be owned until 01.01.2022. the possession of sulfuric acid >15% illegal. So those who still have old, non-maintenance-free batteries should take advantage of the opportunity and still cover themselves with sufficient material. By the way, this ban does not apply to sulphuric acid, which is in car batteries (see https://fulbat.com/new-regulation-for-the-sale-of-acid-for-batteries/ ) VG

Hello guys. I drive an old Super Seven. When I bought the car, it was extremely loud because the engine was massively adjusted. The end pot was completely empty, so the sound had an extremely unpleasant pitch, which hurt the ears at medium/higher speeds. The car consists next to the seven-typical chassis of parts of different car models. There are no “original parts” for the car, the exhaust is a universal part. I can therefore within the db registration in the paper legally exchange. 3 years ago I used a significantly larger rear silencer, so that the car became much quieter (approx. 80db). But after a long search and testing I got the car car car / engine adjustment, the car has now become much quieter again and thus it lost its sporty characteristics. It has now subjectively less sound than a GTI. Entered are 88db. They do not necessarily have to be (the tube e My goal, however, is a more nuanced sound, especially when it comes to gas. Currently, a round pot is 420mm long and 150mm diameter installed. A size smaller would be 125mm diameter (length remains the same). It has a calculated 30% less volume. Does any of you have any idea what that does with the sound / how much db louder the slimmer pot is expected? Tips? Of course I don’t want to have to buy different end pots in the Trial & Error 5.

Hello, I have now taken over a car.. TÜV fresh without defects Extensive used car warranty Unknown water damage, which according to information may have been maximum in the footroom of the car. Car was extensively repaired according to dealer. Steering column, gas pedal, throttle flap, window lifter incl. electrics was everything renewed and repaired. He had informed me about the water damage. However, since the dealer made such a very good impression, good reviews had been online and I had the aut o with both TÜV, as well as with inspection and warranty, I have seen the damage as fixed. Almost like a paint damage, which one specifies, but does not have important for the function of the car. Now I am totally unsure… I myself read topics where I find all the information from “no problem if it has been repaired properly” to “no matter what, the car is repaired itself not durable”. Dealer says himself that he is important to the customer is satisfied, happy to come back and his Ges This is why it would not fit if he sold a car, whose durability he could not guarantee by the damage alone. Now the child may have fallen into the well, because I did not pick up the car yet, but had already completed the purchase… I wanted to have the car checked by a specialist workshop after taking over. How are the experiences with a water damage in general, if the car after that extensively revised Rde?

Hello, this is a crosspost from the W205 forum, as I seem to be an individual case and it is not a model-specific problem. I changed spark plugs a few months ago, but I noticed that the spark plug from the 3rd cylinder is significantly blacker (see picture in the appendix). However, the car drives quite normally. Black, dry spark plugs should be a too fat mixture, so injector broken, respectively leaking? The CCs were now the prescribed int 15tkm. Have been original MB candles and have now been replaced with NGK SILZKFR8D7S (probably exactly the same as the original MB, since also “Made in Japan”. What I have done so far: * Ignition coil of 1st and 3rd cylinder replaced. Result: The 3rd cylinder continues to produce a darker spark plug (see second spark plug image) * Compression measurement with Bosch compression tester. All cylinders are between 11 and 13 bar, whereby the 3rd cylinder with 11 Bar delivers the lowest result. I don’t know any more, but I don’t want to change the injector to good luck either. The vehicle is a Mercedes C180 pre-mopf with approx. 66tkm from 2015. Thanks for reading!

Hello, my car is a 5-speed manual circuit. Sporadically, it happens that the first gear stays “hanging” when uncoupled. More precisely, the problem is as follows: -I speed up to for example 2200 rpm in the first gear -now I walk off the accelerator pedal, step the clutch thus a clear braking effect can be felt, as if I were kicking the brake pedal – at the same moment the speed goes back to for example 1900 rpm and remains there for 2- 3 seconds when the clutch pedal is kicked, although I don’t give a gas – it’s now only possible to force the gear lever into the idle position – only after these 2-3 seconds the speed of the clutch pedal is very slowly reduced to the idle speed 800 rpm – now it’s easy to move the gear lever The described problem occurs at irregular intervals at about every tenth attempt. dfree. It also occurs at different speeds than described above and is also not temperature dependent. The problem sometimes occurs in the second gear, but in a significantly weakened form, i.e. with a lower braking effect. Can any of you imagine what exactly the cause is? Is it more due to the clutch, possibly at the rear bearing or rather to the gearbox? What do you suspect and why? In the workshop they unfortunately could not tell me exactly what it is. I want to j Don’t make the mistake and to good luck for a lot of money exchange the clutch including the back bearing and flywheel, if it is at the end a gear damage after all. Thank you for your tips and advice!

Hello dear community, I have registered for the current occasion. We live in an apartment house with >10 parties – actually everything great. However, a woman and her son apparently have massive psychological problems (bipolar disorder probably in combination with other things) and these have recently issued unspecific threats against several neighbors. My neighbor and I somehow at the same time came up with the idea that we would probably have to look at the brake lines regularly . I give the scenario maybe only 1%, but would like to largely exclude this WorstCase for me and my family. Especially since the landlord will soon significantly increase the stress level of the woman. How does one proceed technically to detect manipulations? What would happen specifically with the Golf 6 (BJ2011) during manipulation? -Warning lamp? (probably no) -if one presses the brake pedal two/three times before starting, would one with an eletronic? Pedal at all in the Sta And remember what? – Where would you see a puddle? I change a light candle (diesel), but here I know zero. Everything unsightly, but maybe there’s a technical encouragement from you. Thank you, a worried golf6 driver.