Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello guys, this may sound a bit strange now, but it’s not a troll but serious. I bought my first real car (Ford Focus BJ2015). So that it lasts as long as possible, of course, it has to be cared for, maintained etc.. My father died early and I never had a real reference person with whom I could talk about something like cars. Therefore, I also have some idea what to consider. When you consult Google, you often push the What should be taken into account before buying a car, but I am already on. I am especially concerned about care. I am absolutely layman. I have heard of regular refilling of oil already, there is under the bonnet n oil vessel with a rod inside, which indicates the minimum amount of oil correctly? “cooling liquid” you should probably also refill, there is certainly also n tank in the engine yes? And is there enough normal water or does it have to be special liquid? But that almost stops with me. W he looks like a tire, is there something special you have to pay attention to in summer/winter? Have you heard the keywords warm/cold driving, is it just slow to drive until the engine is warm? Drive almost immediately on the AB that is then a bit difficult….usw usf. Is there maybe a “checklist” or something like that for car care? Something like “oil check every 2 weeks, coolant check every 2 weeks, brake check? Would you like the car (of course) to last as long as possible and if possible s Auber rides without screwing up “negligently” himself. Thank you!

I’m just doing a maybe unusual battery test. I bought a used vehicle this year. Unfortunately I don’t know how old the battery is. I couldn’t get any information about it from the seller either. Battery: Varta 44 Ah 1K0 912 105 220 A DIN 360 A EN/SAE Vehicle: VW Caddy Ecofuel Bj 2009 80kW 1984 ccm I drove yesterday an hour to charge the battery relatively fully. At home at 18:00 I then removed the battery and put it in the freezer. (-20° C). Today I want to test the battery around 10-11 o’clock. Thus the battery should have cooled quite well. To load the battery I have unfortunately only one GYS TBP 100. Yesterday at 21:20 the battery had an idle voltage of 12.73 volts. Today 08:30 12.69 volts I am already eagerly looking forward to the measurement results.

Hello together; Would like to introduce myself as a new member in the forum. I drive a SL 350 year 2013. Unfortunately I have a problem, the built-in garage door opener does not work with the garage drive. After the description of the vehicle and the frequency this should work with the drive. Has someone already made an experience with it?

Good evening dear MT community, need a consultation/information from you again. Renault Clio III, 1.2 Turbo with slightly more than standard performance. Now shock absorbers are due. Actually only rear left. but for me logically to exchange the 2 back. Question: Oil pressure or gas pressure. Just rear axle or complete. – Monroe Reflex or Sachs Supertouring…or another recommendation from you. In any case no suggestion please towards coilover suspension or similar. Thank you already in advance!

Does the set of tires (complete wheel, tires on rim) speak however for the other season in the way described below? All 4 pieces close to each other tire flank at flank, steel tube through center hole of all in series standing wheels introduced. Tube of diameter approximately of the center hole rim (pipe wall about 3mm strong). Tube pulls out sufficiently wide at both ends from the row of wheels. Tube hung on both sides by e.g.: 2 belts for transpor tgut safety, each belt runs like a V. Tires float a few centimeters above ground. Tube in horizontal position while it hangs on two belts, on top the 4 wheels.

Hello together, If I ended up in the wrong department, just move, thank you. The following problem, I bought a battery in December 2016, battery until September 2017 everything went well. October 2017 I had to apply 4 x starting aid because the battery was down, because I picked up the battery myself in the shop and still had warranty, I had them tested in November, that alone took 5 days no idea why the so long brew where I could then pick them up again I was told that the battery was reanimated again and was so far ok. So again built in, at the end of February the started again battery went down again 2x starting aid requested was down to 11,5 volts, the ADAC Man who helped me dan said that the charge was ok with 14,3 volts fluctuated but up to 14,0 volts, I drove around over an hour to charge them full. A day later looked again and measured the battery, showed only 11,8 volts the ka nn don’t be, or. I then measured creep current. in sleep mode 0.02 Ah with door opening 0.25 Ah and then I turned on the ignition 1.68 Ah But the numbers are ok that way, right? What do you think the battery defect is

I’m called Rene and have a problem with my new LED additional headlights, which I want to connect to the motorcycle. First unpacked …Each of the two lamps has 2 cables (black & red ) to connect to the 12 volts power supply. First simply connected to a battery starts the problem. The lamp lights well … but goes out again after 5 to 8 seconds on its own. I separate the current and connect immediately again …The lamp flickers very fast… I separate the power supply again and plug it in again for the 3rd time … Now the lamp burns only weak ! And so the game continues again and again in the circle . What could be the cause ?? already many thanks in advance

Hello dear community! I’m new here, so please forgive me if I make a mistake! I urgently need information from you regarding vehicles without DPF! Since I drive a Ford Focus and a VW Golf 5 with DPF and so far only had problems with these filters I am interested in a NEW VEHICLE without DPF! Although I drive a lot and hardly had to drive short distances at the Ford 1.6 Tdci (at 112000 km) the filter and at the VW 1.9 TDI at (162000 km) the DPF exchanged Since I am from Austria and there are no regulations for DPF in cities etc. (as in Germany) my question is whether there are still new cars to buy without DPF. (possibly also imports from abroad). Do you need your help as I could not find anything else on the net! Thanks lg Gisi

Hello guys, I have the problem that my car is currently starting in summer too. Now I have collected some data with a good multimeter which I would like to discuss with you, because I do not exchange the car battery for example and after that it is the starter or the alternator. Now to the data: car stands, no ignition, no consumers: 12.09 car in idle, no consumers 14.5 car in idle, many consumers: tendency over 15min falling to 14 ,2 —- Test finished car idle , only few consumers: Trend in still slightly falling — — Test stopped car ignition, consumers: Falling tendency can be clearly detected second-hand Auto ignition, all consumers out: value has settled at 12.5 The question to you is how can I interpret the values? 1. Should the alternator in idle and many consumers not keep the voltage? Trend was falling. Nevertheless, it was at the end to 12.5 charged by original 12.09 2. is the value 12.09 at the beginning of the tests little (new car battery?) How do I interpret the test: car battery beginning 12.09 , ignition on, value 14.5, consumer on, value slowly falling —–> alternator defective? Can an alternator supply electricity for charging but possibly too little because the is defective? As you can see ……… Questions about questions!!!! Would I be pleased about helping answers

Hello, for a vehicle which should be off-road I have created the following table as a comparison wheel chain: Wheel: Lower fuel consumption Lower technological effort Lighter design Technology distributed to many companies Many simulation models lower rolling resistance cheaper in purchase and maintenance Chain: Self-driving versions already available in a variety of standard components Very good off-road capability and traction Low floor damage Since rubber chains and large weight distribution Higher tensile force Better adaptation to the substrate Insensitive to external influences Lower vehicle height Lower floor pressure higher climbing ability Steering much more precise Have I forgotten something and what are the fundamental differences in the chassis design? Greeting pw