Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello! Yesterday I had the problem that the oil draining screw on a 09 Ford KA was absolutely not to be solved. The thing is probably also that the screw has to be solved with a 12-in-bus, and the screw itself probably also has no sealing ring. In addition, according to other, the screw should be still conical. I broke up a 1/4″ ratchet yesterday and then bent a 12-in-bus (long version). Must say that the car up to now always in the workshop (FF) H) was ,for the purpose of inspection ,and suspect that there was also always sucked off and the screw is jammed tight . Must then well or bad ,because the time was pressing that oil with a pump suck off . What can I do ,to be able to solve the screw still still ,in the future . In addition to warm up still warm ? Impact wrench ? It is an oil pan of steel . From the oil suck off I do not hold much in the long term , but is also not the topic now . For tips I would be very grateful .

Hello, our Geleaxy from the year 2011 with automatic transmission has for some time the following errors. Under load, i.e. during mountain climbing or acceleration it does not hold the speed. This always fluctuates in the range of approx. 200U/min. My car mechanic thinks it would be the converter between engine and gearbox defective? Can anyone say something about this? Does this happen more often than not with this car? What has to be done here, can the converter be repaired or where can you get a new one? ? I already had contact car parts24, they don’t have such a thing in delivery. In advance thank you for your help. VG Markus

Hello to the gear experts, I’m dealing with the topic of intermediate gas and I really want to learn it. I found out that the technology goes as follows when switching down: 1.) Coupling step out 2.) Gang out 3.) Coupling come out 4.) Gas shock 5.) Coupling step in 6.) Gang in 7.) Put some gas on 8.) Coupling come What I don’t understand is what step 3 is necessary, or what exactly happens there? Wouldn’t it be enough to do the whole thing like this: 1.) Coupling step n 2.) Get out the gear 3.) Gas shock 4.) Get in the gear 5.) Let the clutch come What effect did the clutch bring? Who can explain it to me in an understandable way? Thanks already. LG Tigran

Hello! Since yesterday I can call my first automatic car my own I have a question. More precisely I have a Qtronic transmission. If I now stand at a red traffic light, you switch to N (just like at the switch to spare the rear position) or can you stay on D? If I stay on D it easily vibrates in the car, you notice that it wants to drive away but is braked. What is more harmful now, the “braking” of the transmission or the additional switching organ g from D to N and back again? And still a little bit hot, how long does the gearbox take to become “warm”? I drive about 40km of easy route daily, 35 of which are motorways and the first and last 5km 100km/h speed limit (city highway). Since I try to speed up to 100 as slowly as possible and only after that I drive 130-140km/h. Right so? mfg, emyr

Hi, sister was at a free workshop today, where something should be repaired. Since she has little money, she ordered suitable spare parts in the www and brought them with her for the appointment. In the workshop she was told that one does not carry out the repair with the brought parts, since one could not give a guarantee for it. One would have to order the parts yourself. But the workshop also orders parts in the www. Where is the difference? And how is that with guarantee? If you pass end parts, where is the problem? Thank you. Greetings Bud

Moin, my car was moved very little mostly only with short distances. Yesterday it can not start because the battery is empty. When voltage measurement shows the multimeter 9.6V I then took out the battery and connected it in the apartment to a charger (a very cheap one from Absaar). Although the battery is detected and charged, after c.a 1 hour shows however the charger that the battery is defective and the charging process has been stopped Have read in the network that a battery This seems to help, charging takes much longer this time, the charging current increases continuously(14,4V) and battery capacity also (according to the charger 80% charged). However, after 10 hours of charging time, the charger shows again that the battery is defective. The battery has only 10.7V again. What can this be? Can I still save the battery? Maybe with a higher value, the battery can be used to save the battery. to the charger of CTEK try greetings

Hello together, I’ve changed brakes a few times successfully, but I’d like to get your tips on this. In my experience, everyone does something different. I personally lubricate copper paste on the screw pads and secure sliding pins and saddle carriers with Loctite screw-resistant and also the sliding surfaces of the pads are lubricated with pasta. What are your experiences? Do you have bad experiences with copper paste and Loctite? Do you use no Loctite at all but just pop on dry? Do you use Anti-Quitsch Pasta? Would you like to share experiences with me LG

Hello, one often hears “sporty” new cars passing by, which are noticeable by violent loud banging, like in the 50s. Question about this: is the intention of the manufacturer, a technical deficiency or caused by tuning? Why is the noise pollution allowed?

I have installed a marten protection, a combined system with ultrasonic and high voltage. The power supply is directly via battery plus and battery minus. There is no connection to terminal 15. Whether the vehicle is driving or parking, is determined by the battery voltage. Above 13,x V, the integrated control unit assumes that the engine is running and shuts off the system. So far all this is clear. Now there is an additional bonnet contact, the system b The switch is connected only to a single cable, which leads to 300 V voltage, i.e. the normal operating voltage of the electrical contacts. According to the installation instructions, the switch itself must be well connected to ground by means of its fastening screw. How does this work? The switch cannot do more than to establish or disconnect the connection to the ground. A connection between Mass and +300 V would be a short circuit.

Hello people, I need help with the following simple task from the field of car electrics. The reason is professional requirements outside of the public road country. Start-stop-Automatics Automatic switching of the main headlights switched on to stand light and vice versa at engine start. Daylight switch or button for one-time deactivation, i.e. at next engine start it is automatically again. I unfortunately do not know the ideal separation point, tend I would have the b If the alternator does not charge, the maximum level of light will work. I would separate the daytime running light on the respective veins just before the lamp and switch a relay with a common button in the amaturary board. Who has ideas about this? How would you solve the problem? Which components would you use?