Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello together, *hope, I’m in the right forum* I would like to address a topic that mMn. is too short and I’m looking forward to your opinions. As a private hobby screwdriver, I find it very difficult to get to the technical documentation of the car manufacturers. Fortunately, you can solve many problems with technical expertise. But when it comes to electrics and complex repairs, modern vehicles without the manufacturer’s technical data are almost the same. This starts with the right tightening moment for a screw and goes up to the documentation of the electrotechnical/digital systems. Apart from this, decent repair guides often save a lot of time and errors. Even in the area of CAN diagnostics and programming you can’t get very far without proper documentation if you can’t afford a fully documented diagnostic system. You can forget about the manual at all. The costs for most hobby screwdrivers are simply too high. But even there are often important information missing. Just like with the good old “So is it done” books. Information platforms of the manufacturers (e.g. erWin of VW) are beyond expensive. So the big research starts in the vast expanses of the Internet, which according to experience is not always crowned by success. Nevertheless, I am very grateful to communities and forums, like this one. The manufacturers should be obliged to make all technical documentation available to their customers free of charge. It is an unding that private customers, but also free workshops, must invest in this technical information and that manufacturers still enrich themselves with it. Especially from the point of view of sustainability, this should be a matter of course. I study computer science and there almost everything lives from detailed documentation. Since I am used to excellent documentation, these business practices of the car manufacturers very upset me. How do you see the whole thing? Where do you get your information? I’m looking forward to your opinion on the topic!

Salut with each other, We still have an old Honda Civic Diesel as an occasional second vehicle (such as a mercy bread story, has always been a reliable workhorse) which had a Macke in the spring and pulled the battery empty during the ride. The called ADAC knocked around the alternator and loaded the battery, afterwards everything was ok again. His diagnosis: coals have jammed. Now he got the same modifications again before the summer vacation, too scarce to make it even before the holiday This time it went so far that the whole tree lit up in the dashboard and Servo & Co had no support when pushing on the last meters of the driveway. Now, after the holiday, the old battery showed 0.0 volts, I thought my measuring device spins. New battery ordered and it is installed today, in the hope to drag the box to the workshop with working servo and brake power amplifier, there then LiMa and charge controller as well as cable check new battery, built-in, previously measured: 12.5 volts. Connected, measured: 11.4 volts. Häh? Plus cable from the battery to the fuse box is well warm. Battery is disconnected, measured: 12.4volts, 10 minutes later 12.5 volts. How would you assess the situation? What would you think is the evil culprit? I would hate to get a new LiMa listed if the fault lies with the charging controller or in a defective cable. My practical knowledge of the KfZ electronics l I would be very pleased to have something under my hardly existing theoretical knowledge of general electronics, about easily understandable explanations and hints. Thank you, Mudgius

Hello together, somehow I lack some of the overview which types of automatic transmissions are actually available on the market in practice (especially for small cars BJ>2013). I am primarily interested in the driving and operating characteristics of the installed solutions… So far I have found (manual circuitry for completeness): Gearbox types: (S) Classic manual transmission with 5-6 gears and dome (W) Automatic converter – “classical automatic transmission”. u stepless. (D) Double coupling – Two gears, switching without tension interruption (C) CVT – Continuously Variable Transmission – Continuous transmission via 2 cones Control types: (M) Direct select gear via selector lever, select clutch pedal (H1) gear Up/down manually, no clutch pedal (H2) gear Up/down is selected manually or automatically, no clutch pedal (A) Classic automatic circuit with stages Parking,Reverse,Neutral,Drive, no clutch pedal So far I had with folg end variants to do: S-M – most cars S-H1 Smart, first generation (he could also switch down automatically) S-H2 Peugeot 1007 Autoscout lists e.g. only “manual, semi-automatic, automatic” as transmission variants – what of the above is meant by this? The Suzuki Ignis seems to have a (A) operation, for example, but the “AGS” transmission is probably of the (S) type with automatic coupling – I would have expected the (A) operation only with (W) and (C) operation? ig would be the property of my previously driven S-H1/2 gearbox, for example, that the car is without gas (e.g. in traffic jams) without having to take out the gear or step on the brake. I don’t have that with a (A) operation, do I? Which combinations are so with which brands on the market?

Hi, everybody. Sorry for the bad German, I’m still learning. I’m trying to buy a split charge relay in Germany for my campervan, but I don’t know what it’s called in German. It’s what people use to charge AGM batteries from their car battery while driving. Can anyone help me? Thank you Dan Here’s the English only in my German is not understandable Hello everyone. Sorry for the bad german, I am still learning. I am trying to pur case a ‘split charge relay’ in germany for my campervan, but I do not know what it is called in german? It is what people use to charge AGM batteries from their car battery while driving. Can anyone help with this?

This 17-year-old article (Mercedes Benz w123 as “New Youngtimer”) simply describes exactly the presence of shut-off devices for exhaust cleaning as if it were the most natural of the world: http://www.wurmkat.de/presse/oldtimer/markt/abgastest/abgastest.htm Maybe one or the other finds interesting, shows how ridiculous the “We have all never known anything sst” from KBA etc. is…. Have fun reading the scrap metal fanatic wishes

When refueling, there are people who pull out the pump gun diagonally upwards after the end of the refueling process, although it still drips and then the car infiltrates below the tank opening. Especially with the diesel, unsightly traces are created. Most people probably fill up a little more intelligently: at the end let a little drain, pull out the pump gun only half (so that the pipe is still in the tank end), then move the whole pump gun downwards, s o that the pipe is the highest point and nothing can drop out anymore. (Especially as a man one is familiar with the principle “first shake off” well.) Now I noticed, however, that it is still siffing. The fuel comes from the connection point between the handle of the pump gun and the metal tube. For the first time I noticed this a few years ago, I thought that it would only be at this one pump, but by now it seems at almost all gas stations so z u. The drip-free petrol stations are now in the minority. So you have to put a paper or a cloth under the pipe in addition to the described method. Have you had similar experiences with your petrol stations? Or is it just a coincidence that so many petrol stations are affected here in the region?

Hello people! I noticed at my vehicle (at the front where you put the jack) on the underbody that the underbody protection is loosening. It peels off on both sides on a 5cm2 surface and it rusts a little. Would like to remove and renew the underbody protection at the place with a drill and a round wire brush. How should I treat the rusty places? I personally would have made the place half-blank, then painted with rust converter, then rusted What is the original underbody protection of cars? These are so hard and resistant – is there something to buy? Know underbody protection on rubber and bitumen basis – but these are not as solid as the stuff that is applied in the factory. My questions to you would be: How exactly do I proceed to treat the said places on the underbody? Which underbody protection should I use? h use? Please ask for your comments!

Hi, I’ve already looked for the topic in some forums and found a lot of things. Only the mentioned vehicles are older and would like to know what it is like for newer cars. My Opel Astra K 1.4 150 hp automatic is year 2016. I have also seen a video about the topic in which it is shown that you can accelerate with the cruise control. But is this also good for the engine or other components? The consumption is now put there, but should be better. If the cruise control accelerates. Is this harmful in the long run? If I have saved 70km/h for example and drive on a continuous 70s zone and there is a red traffic light. Then I actually only have to roll and then hit the cruise control and it accelerates to the last stored speed. I happen to happen on the highway and the transmission switches down really far. Is probably wanted because of the ideal efficiency of the engine. Can you still give me a little bit of speed. to say on the topic and make it clear whether this can have harmful effects? Thank you already once and beautiful Sunday still

Hello, does anyone know the following phenomenon and can help me? Micra K11 with 40 kW engine, technically completely (?) intact, 100 Tkm mileage. As soon as light or air conditioning are switched on, a spinning to screaming noise comes out of the engine compartment. There are no further impairments, one can drive with it hundreds of kilometers without the noise changes or smells occur. Turn off light – noise is gone (or so quiet that no longer audible?). Light on – G battery, Lima etc. are OK, that’s what an autoelectrician has looked at (Kfz electrician master, self-employed for over forty years, absolute professional!). He has found nothing. The V-belts are in order and really tense. In addition, the following demonstration effect: in the stand you don’t hear the noise and sometimes it doesn’t occur at all! However, when it occurs, it gets louder depending on the speed and becomes extremely annoying when driving on the highway at night. Every time the sound is heard, another phenomenon occurs in parallel: as soon as an electrical consumer is switched on, the radio is running out for a short time. So every time the brakes, flashing, disc lifter operation, etc. What can that be?! Has anyone ever had to do with a similar error? I am grateful for every hint…

Hello, the inner child in me always wanted to smash an old car with a hammer. Now I would have the opportunity, because an acquaintance has an old car close to the scrap value and would make it available to me. The question is: Could the airbags be triggered when knocking around on the body? I am clear that if the battery + waiting time is disconnected, the trigger electronics will no longer respond, because the necessary voltage for the trigger signal is missing. I don’t want the airbag to open suddenly without warning. Can you make it safe, pounding around with an airbag on the car with an airbag, but without a battery? Or is it only safe if the airbags have been removed / ignited? Best regards Xeneon1