Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Last and this year I noticed that the damage caused by the winter use of my older vehicles somehow changed. Salt -> rust, of course, but even the rust doesn’t look like it used to be. A light orange dominates steel sheet parts, which makes me think more of an acid treatment, and in the engine compartment I have both the die-cast parts of the beetle and the BMW E36 horrific blooms, which I don’t know from the past. The magnesium alloy of the beetle engine doesn’t seem to hit it that way, but distribution housing, gasoline pump etc. get a chilly skin that hurts while looking at it. At the BMW it seems to me that the differential is rusting through…. Does anyone know if something else than sodium chloride is being cut on the streets on a larger scale nowadays? Will probably depend on the municipalities, but such general trends should be known…. Greetings, Michael

Hi all together, I’ve been looking for years now make the mistake/defect that leads to my Z4 from 2006 after irregular intervals but at the latest after about 1-2 weeks of standstill the battery disappears into the eternal hunting grounds. Have already worn out 3 batteries, no error codes are displayed, all fuses also lead to no culprit… Once I parked the car and a few minutes later obviously started running the fuel pump. G Ing until I opened up the car again via FB. Once I also measured an increased resting current of >1A. Unfortunately everything was not reproducible. I did not want to BMW and two freemen did not find anything. Now my last hope is perhaps to change the ECUs gradually. Can you just replace it or have to be learned something after that, coded etc.? Thank you! Greeting Bronkmaster

Hello It is about charging a trailer (kipper) through the towing vehicle. The trailer has its own battery for the hydraulics of the pump. The pulling transporter is normally connected by power line (normal trailer light) with the trailer. Supposedly it should go through the normal trailer light box to charge the battery of the trailer. Unfortunately, this is not possible at the moment! The trailer also has an extra connection for 12 V, for the battery of the hydraulic pump.(I think) If m on the battery of the trailer just 12 volts from the battery of the transporter, then this would be charged, but what would happen if the battery is fully charged, and 12 volts is still on? Wouldn’t one use a charging current controller for it? Is that just so? Could I turn off from the transporter connection box (light trailer), 12 volts and put on the battery of the trailer. Or is in the connection cable (light trailer) already a wire reserved for s owhat?? Need to know this urgently! Greeting G2s

Hello together.Previous: Search efforts, find nothing suitable My headlights have been set correctly in the workshop in height, as it is heard, planner floor, vehicle loads according to regulations, and also the % on the test device suitable to the specification of the SW. What I noticed immediately after the purchase (new car) the SW illuminated correctly in height, but the focal point of both SW was somehow too far to the right. I first thought that must be so. In the context of a Servi ce in the workshop said the nice man but also immediately to me, they do not exactly shine, he will correct it. (so nevertheless) Now one just shines, and the other too far to the left (in case of fog nice to recognize) After mature consideration, I think that with these devices which you put before it can not get it clean at all, because you always put it in the focus, whether this is in flight with the vehicle / direction of travel or not. Stupid somehow. I ste Is now the question where I can make a clean cursing left/right adjustment of the individual SW (light where I need it and less glare of the GV – a great synergy effect) Does there know a advice? RON

Hey guys I don’t know what you’re like on my subject, but that’s why I’m writing it right now I came across the topic of electric cars by chance, I actually wanted to ask you about my order at http://sbww.eu/Solarthermie_sub.html because I came across this video on their page.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKs84nDtnKM At first I thought, “Oh my God, that the cart really doesn’t suit me. The spot in itself is not bad. Ic h was looking at other clips on YouTube and watching the Audi e-tron https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8TdGbZ2H3k What kind of car can I tell you, what do you think of electric cars???

Hello, I drive the 1.4 TSI engine with 122hp is a Jetta from 2012. I bought this one with 16,000km as second owner, before a pensioner drove it. Now to my question: If I start in the 1st course and the accelerator pedal press the clutch, the speed drops quickly, so that I first drive several meters in the first gear to increase or keep the speed and then switch to the 2nd course free. About VCDS, zündsätzerge angegaben To the workshop history: 16,000km 5W30 LL III Castrol Edge Professional 31.000km 5W30 LL III Castrol Edge Professional + spark plug change 32.000km new climate compressor 33.000km new control chain set + high pressure pump 50,000km to 5W40 Addinol I have now only changed the used car guarantee with 100€ self-distribution per case. And the from the workshop must always convince you that they also know what to do. s Behaviour a TSI problem or is it typical of TSI so that you don’t have to do anything?

Hi, because of a noise discussion in another thread, a question to the experts: Does a healthy turbocharger whistle? (or does other noises?) If yes: Why and how? Background of the question: With today’s usual speeds > 200,000 rpm ~ 3000 rpm and “quantumation” of the gas flow through – let’s say – 12 turbine blades should actually play out in the ultrasonic range, be inaudible. Nevertheless, one reads quite often that also a healthy turbo whistle sounds vo The side components such as blow-off valves, wastegates, etc. can cause hissing and whistle sounds, should not be a topic here. For my part, I can confirm no whistle sounds that could not be explained by the side components. Greetings and thanks in advance Martin

Hello together, I hope you can help me vllt.. With my mopped model is generally known the problem that the battery is relatively quickly empty and no longer enough to start… Italian just. Original is a 12V 11,2ah battery installed…because of the design of the moped (Benelli TNT) unfortunately no other, larger battery fits in. In a foreign forum I have read now that someone has increased the starting capacity with a battery pack from the model building and it supposedly radios Under the bench there would still be some room for a small battery pack, e.g. https://www.conrad.de/…d-energy-side-by-side-t-buchse-206974.html Would that actually work, that I would use the battery pack parallel to it terminal, so that I would theoretically have 13,6ah to start? And if so, what has to be considered? Thanks already in advance

Hello, question is already in the topic: Does it make sense to change H7 illuminant (absorbent light) at intervals? Currently at my Fzg. good four years old, almost the first ex works.

Hello dear, I have a problem, which I have already found here. But no solution. Sometimes my brake light does not go out, even if I pull the key (then I have to disconnect the battery every time). And sometimes it goes on suddenly at night (then the battery is empty afterwards). I changed the brake light switch. But that didn’t help. Then a mechanic buddy glued a piece of felt somewhere and everything looked good. It went on and off. And then it went on and off. This morning the battery was empty again. I assume that the brake light has turned on again (by the way: in the summer). Now I wonder if I might have to install a newer brake light switch (I have built one that looked exactly like the original). Would be great if someone had an idea!!! I only had the car for a few months, I am very happy to drive, but I don’t always like to disconnect the battery. Thanks and greetings, andi