Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Evening, I have read through some forums and have often read that permanent full load is harmful for every car. Durable full load is harmfully clear when you hang at the limiter with the speed and the accelerator touches the ground. But how does this work when I give full throttle, but the speed as with me lies at 4100 rpm? Is this also harmful or not? With my car is at 220 close and there is the speed just at 4100. Bad or can I do it quietly until the tan k is empty? Thanks euuuch

Hello everyone, I changed the tires today with a car from known and noticed on the last wheel that I had put all the nuts wrong around (110 nm) because the ball band was on the outside. The car was moved briefly to turn (with the faulty nuts), otherwise the car was standing. I had screws on my own car, and did not think at all that the nuts could sit wrong around. I immediately turned all the nuts and the steel rims n checked for damage. Couldn’t discover anything the nuts turned nicely into the rim and let themselves be turned in nicely. I definitely intend to follow the nuts again. I am however not a mechanic and have thought of having overlooked something. Are there possibly people who have experienced something like this before, as you have been going on since then? I guess there is a risk. What do you advise me to drive to a workshop and have it inspected? I would have the cost so to take over because it was my mistake, but that will certainly be unpleasant to the known. Thank you for answers.

Meal together, yesterday I muffled my old “offroadkart” again ready to go. Since this big rear wheel was then driven only one wheel and one ran ball-bearing with, so that the shaft can stand up to the duration of the load. Now I have built in a differential and nothing changed on the brake. The cart pulls at the brake extremely to the right. I don’t remember if it was that way with the stored wheel. Now to my question: Is it possible that I turn an adapter plate and mount the brake directly on the differential opposite of the chain wheel and have a reasonable braking performance or should I rather add a second brake?

Day too. I got a new (used) Nissan Note E11 this year. Gasoline, from 2009, around 110,000 kilometers on the speedometer. I had the same one before, only with less PS and really likes the notes very much, because they are already small room wonders. Now I have a big problem with this one, however: If I take a right turn at a little speed (around 20kmh), then something starts to squeak extremely high and loudly. D I can’t even be dazzled with a full-blown radio and I’m already stared at here in the village when I’m driving by. The squeaking can then hold itself on straight track. If I brake, is directly quiet. Even if I hit the left, he gives a short rest. I’ve been googled for a while, what this could be right now. I leave somewhere that you should just put on the handbrake a few times during the ride, so that even I tried to take advantage of the tual tacks or something. I tried on a free track when driving slower (around the 30kmh). But nothing seemed to do. When changing tyres from winter to summer, my neighbour noticed (he knows a bit about the car and always changes the tyres for small money the whole road), which with me the front left wheel with my hand can only be turned hard. So maybe something could block there. Where exactly the squeaking comes from, he can also not quite explain and I can never say exactly from which side or whether it comes from the front or from the rear, even during the ride. Did one of you ever have and can give me clues about what it might be? It would be really great if I didn’t have to go to the workshop with it and it might be just the brake pads or other things that I can change or get done by the neighbor. I’m really grateful for every tip and hint! MfG Steffie

Hi. Have a BMW 325i E93 convertible BJ2009. Which of the two batteries can you recommend to me? Varta Blue Dynamic 595 402 080 12V 95Ah 800A G3 (lead acid) or Varta Silver Dynamic AGM 595 901 085 12V 95Ah 850A G14 Take lead acid or AGM? Thank you in advance. MfG FireDVB

Hello together, Just now in winter the question arises to me what is more harmful ? Very short to go shopping e.g. 2 km or detours to drive and get the engine short warm . The latter has the disadvantage that the earth was not really long warm and cooled again during the shopping . Thus you come almost on two longer distances which were driven cold . In the end you harm the engine more than if you drive 2 km back or then two again ? What does i I think it’s smarter to charge you directly with a charger instead of burning big fuel for it.

Tach, since I have already received a cancellation from 2 companies to my wishes I try it sometimes in a large forum. I am looking for a company that can knit my currently far too short tuned DGU gearbox into a long 5-speed, which also withstands a good 600 NM load. Also the option of buying another (and matching to my AHK engine) I pull into consideration if it is not possible to convert my currently existing gearbox. Who knows such gear specs? Greeting , Lars

Hello all, I have a Chevrolet AVEO (Kalos) BJ. 2007 key number: 8260 AAC. In this car both wheels had left outside. In the spring I had already changed the axle support, crossbars, track rods, as well as the coupling rods and had an axle measurement carried out. A short time later I loaned the car to a colleague over a month, because I did not need it due to Corona when I got it again was a new Kopp Elstände completely knocked out, which I then had to change again again. I assume that there was an incident here, which possibly changed the track again. Furthermore, a few days ago I changed all 4 wheel bearings, because one thing was clearly heard. I was again today, with the axle measurement, because I have no desire to drive a new set of tires on one side. I have the mechatronics engineer, who carried out the axle measurement still in the Hal I told him about the coupling rod and the wheel bearing, and he replied that it could not come from the coupling rod as well as from the wheel bearing, because here probably if one hears only something at the wheel bearing and not yet a clear play, this is not the one-sided outer abrasion of the tires. He thinks it’s the sporty driving style. For a long time, speak briefly, I am then at the cash register and the Lord meant that, yes, that’s worth it, that’s no wonder that with them the tires have run off one side and I just as now your colleague told me something quite different and he said that’s an interpretative matter. Can someone take a position on the axle measurement protocol and so on and clarify myself I’m a little confused and ho I don’t know what could still be defective. Best regards.

Hello to each other, today’s petrol engines (still) have a full load enrichment or similar lubrication, if you push through the pedal at low speed? What is the best way to drive sprite-saving? Push through the accelerator pedal completely or almost? If you are looking for the shell diagrams/consumption parameters of the manufacturers, you should be on the right track without having to worry about it, right?

Hello, can anyone tell me the difference between “disconnection” and “pops & bangs”? I looked up a chip tuner’s website and it says:Disconnection, DPF/OPF OFF, AdBlue OFF, Pop & Bang, Power Measurement, Eco Tuning etc. Aren’t “disconnection” and “pops & bangs” the same? Or am I wrong?