Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

To protect the car battery from low temepratures, I want to remove it from my old car and store it in the basement over winter and then recharge it before the next start of the season. The battery is from Bosch, model S4, 44 Ah, I think a stinkormal, maintenance-free car battery. See photo below. My questions. I always write basement, but by the slope position is half of the “cellar” a basement and a house connection room and the other half are two normal Room. The door from the basement room is always open and the room is relatively warm. So anything but a typical cold and damp basement. If I tilt the window in the basement room and in one of the rooms below, then probably some lutf movement would take place – might not hurt when loading, right? EDIT: Or sometimes asked quite differently – does the battery even have to get out of the car into the basement? The beetle is in a normal prefabricated garage, on the left and right there is Nachb argaragen, behind a wall with four small ventilation holes. It is located in the Rhine-Main area, where, as is well known, there are no hard winters.

Hello together, in May 2017 I bought my VW Golf7 BJ 12/2015 from the VW dealer with 12,500 km. The car has now almost 25,000 km on it and unfortunately I didn’t get through the TÜV this week with considerable defects (brake disc 2nd axle left supporting image defective). The very rusty brake discs were already noticeable to me when I bought them, however I let myself be eaten by the seller with the statement that this would come from standing at your yard and give myself by the wear during driving n by itself. Nix was, the rust remained and I had pointed out it again at the first service in Dec17, about 7 months after the purchase – the service mechanic. However, he did not go further (he was only the mechanic), they told me they could exchange the brake pads if I wanted, they had them in stock… .. However, I was also not pointed out when picking up that the brakes were in bad condition or similar. and therefore it was based on itself. I am extremely surprised that I have driven the car for a total of 1.5 years and only 12500 km on it and can now exchange the brake discs at my expense, although the lack has obviously already passed when buying (of course I did not in writing).The purchase included the “carefree warranty until the 5th year of the vehicle” as well as “carefree 2 years of maintenance”, i.e. 2x free service included. I assume that I have no chance here with warranty for wear parts. Is there also a certain guarantee on wear parts (after service life and driving km)? Of course I am a little driver, which did not have a positive effect on the rust on the brakes, but how said existed the bad condition already at the purchase. I have a photo attached from the original pictures of the purchase ad, I find that this is already good to see. Does anyone have any experience how to achieve anything here at the dealer/workshop? Thank you and greeting!

Good day, everyone. I’m currently driving a Mercedes C180 Compressor SportCoupe 2005. I started with the orange engine control light, I was in a workshop to do an engine diagnosis. The next day I’m called by the workshop and I’m told that the car is no longer in contact. The chain can no longer be strained and I should pay 350€ for the car to run again. What options do I have in such a situation? The car ran quite normally, only with the orange light. Here the short history is still important. 4 weeks before that I drove to the other workshop and the wire harness and camshaft magnets were replaced with the car. There it was said: The control chain is ok, has to be changed perhaps in a few years. The current workshop says however that the wire harness is completely oiled and the camshaft magnets have to be replaced. I have in the middle a lot of money was invested in this cheap car and slowly I don’t feel like it. I feel cheated. What can you do? Best regards Michael

I would like to read your opinion on the subject of timing belts. I have an Opel Vectra C /1.8, in which the timing belt interval was set by Opel to 90,000KM or 6 years. Now it would be a change of timing again, because the 6 years are over. However, I am still relatively far away from the 90,000 KM. I question the logic behind this, because if a car is 6 years in the garage I would not necessarily have the Z I have no idea about the wear caused by aging. The friendly one wants to exchange (with water pump) 600 euros. On the one hand I don’t want to spend unnecessarily money, where it would still have 1-2 years time, on the other hand I drive with the family to France and don’t want to wait there with a torn timing belt on the highway somewhere in France for the ADAC… How do you keep it in such a way Do you adhere to these precise time limits, even if the KM number has not yet been reached? Perhaps you can also explain the logic behind it to me. Thank you in advance and greetings from Hamburg – Timmeteq

Hello ! As is well known, a petrol engine ignites by means of a spark plug, a diesel by compression on its own. In addition to ignition time (for petrol engines) you will always find the same information: – Late ignition: some degrees before OT – to start – Early ignition: much more degree before OT The background is that the combustion and the combustion pressure last about 20ms (?) long and only 1ms after the ignition spark occurs. Logically this should take place during the downward movement of the piston. Eight said, is ignited with increasing speed all the earlier, so that the combustion pressure remains at the same crankshaft position. As far as – so clear. But when does a diesel ignite ? Normally, if the diesel-air mixture is compressed enough. That means always just before OT. Worst case in OT. With injector engines also something can be controlled by the injection time – also the self-ignition time ? Here I ask for your knowledge. Greetings !

So far I only had vehicles with manual handbrake. But the company cars all have the button handbrake (electric parking brake). How strongly do the parking brake attract? With a manual handbrake you can pull the brake under the ride, as well as park without tightening the handbrake. In the latter case the combination instrument beeps with the new vehicles and I usually park in my garage without brake. What happens if you have the electric fes Is it possible to do no more drifting? (scarve, I don’t do) How strongly does the electric parking brake pull against the manual handbrake? Can you achieve the same pressure with the manual HB? What happens if the brake cheeks freeze in winter? How can you solve the manual ones, how can you release the electric ones, or is both a case of towing?

Hello forengemeinde! As I may have read before, I have suffered a water loss from a leaky radiator hose in my frontera. Original replacement is probably no longer available for a long time and in my internet search no comparable one found. The problem is, it is also where the temperature sensor is connected with it. The crack is not large but exactly next to the place where the clamp is located. Can one repair such a hose, if yes how? Could Panzerband go n and above it a corresponding shrink hose? The clamps push very deep into the hoses, maybe better take normal clamps? Thanks already in advance!

After theft I bought a new cat from Autodoc Berlin. After 10 days it arrived yesterday undamaged. The cat seems to be only half filled with the ceramic. Kat manufacturer is Ridex Berlin and is own statement a subsidiary of Autodoc. I measured the cat inside in depth and on the one hand it has 16 cm in depth and on the other side 26.5 cm. I sent a request to the KBA whether this cat matches the approval. D a I’m pretty sure that half of the ceramics would be omitted here, I have also filed a complaint because of the suspicion of fraud against unknown. If my guess is confirmed and someone like that installs a cat, he will never pass the AU and possibly make himself liable to tax evasion. Maybe even the operating permit expires!! What do you say to the measures?

I now have 190 TKM down with my Galaxy WA 6. Up to now it has run like a clockwork without any problems. When uncoupling is now a minimal accompanying sound to be noticed. Probably at 200 TKM clutch and various bearings are no longer as good as new. However, my question refers to the manual transmission – does it make sense here to renew the oil or to shed out money? Would the car like to continue up to 400 TKM.

Hello, I ask myself the question that many people have already asked themselves: The daily work path overland or over the AB?! Why do I ask? -> Because I have bought another vehicle and would like to save fuel, but also to keep the wear as low as possible! To the vehicle: Skoda Octavia Tour/Combi, Bj2009, 1.9tdi PD, Eibach sports suspension The following routes are available: AB: Distance: 55km Average speed 110-130 km/h Constant speed – with good traffic Predominantly uniform road surface Little braking and cornering required Duration: approx. 36-40min U-country: Route: 34-36km depending on the chosen route Average speed 60-90 km/h Strong Changing speed – 5 to 6 towns are to be crossed, sometimes speed 30km/h Road surface partly very uneven or “holprig” Frequent braking and cornering Duration: approx. 32-35min Now the question arises to me: Would it be “calculated” about the highway to I drive by the driveway every day anyway and from my home to the driveway it is about 8km, however, the AB then makes a quite strong bow which then still makes 20km easy, i.e. 40km per day more on the counter! How are your experiences there? I am a quite relaxed AB driver (tempomat pure and good), but always take the Ü-Land course for years because I want to save the kilometers, or is this wrong thought, because the load for motor and driving erk on the AB are “necessary” as the Ü-Land “holper”, kilometers back or forth? hope for informative answers and opinions Many thanks Greetings from Middle Franconia with pictures of the routes (the AB-Route still goes over a federal road on which it is like on an AB)