Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Once again for the current occasion: Man fills petrol in his diesel (I know more about woman, but here it was the man) Car is towed to the contract workshop and examined there: KV: Total damage of the engine > new engine 6200 Euro (withdrawn since approx. 2000 discount) fortunately a second workshop was commissioned with an examination: Result: cleaning of the fuel system and renewing the filters about 400,- € other case: engine becomes loud, contract workshop after examination: Z Over 200 000 km better scrap the vehicle. Second workshop: Searches for chips, but does not take place; Threads newly used in cylinder head: 390,- € certainly not individual cases, but with technically helpless customers probably often the fate… I can derive from my experience as an electronics technician: If the workshop can only exchange complete units, instead of running detailed troubleshooting, (which is a good fac In my industry for comparison: a defective condensator in a circuit board (power supply, control, module) costs 50 euros at an expensive exchange, the complete circuit board (power supply, control, module) between 150,- to 3000,- € . If the “technician” can not search for the defective condensator, he has to exchange the circuit board (power supply, control, module) … So as a summary one has to say: who knows a workshop with good experts, should be happy appreciate, because this is a privilege that not all customers / people have.

Hello! With an almost 18-year-old vehicle I wanted to change the brake hoses in the rear. I sprayed the screw connections with rust releaser several days before, so that it can work. Nevertheless, I had difficulties in loosening the screw nuts and also easy heating did not bring so much improvement. I moved the brake line key back and forth again, used rust releaser again and again etc.. It seemed to me that the overwound In particular, I had problems solving the screw connection. I then applied some force and finally managed to solve the roll-over nut. However, with the roll-over nut, which I wanted to solve, the brake line also turned a bit with it. Because the brake line is fixed in several places and I also held it, of course, also force on this a This means that the coating is broken / damaged and it seems that the metal in the area of the screw connection could also have twisted a bit. Now I wonder if the respective brake line has been damaged by the deformation or can easily be used further. According to what criteria can you judge that? I have now got the nut relatively common again, so that I can probably tighten it easily. e. Otherwise, the brake line is fine. Only in the area of the nut is this almost blank. What should be lubricated on it if necessary? I ask you for detailed advice. Thank you!

Moin, I no longer have a driving beam with my vehicle. The headlights are dark when switching to the driving beam. I measured the cables: passing beam > 12.25 volts driving beam > approx. -8,x volts (MINUS) What can be the reason for this?

Hello, Have a Mercedes vito 112cdi w638 bj2001 with 404 000km My question… If I drive in the 5th 50 km h it makes 1200-1300rpm You have no vibrations, engine becomes much quieter.. If I then settle from 50 to 65 (in the 5th) it makes such a suction-like noise Is that healthy for the engine or should I rather drive with the 4th and that 1500rpm(at 50km h)? Lg

Now to the situation. I have a camper with a MB Vario 818 with Euro 5. Since I have 20kWh Lifeypo4 battery in my setup, I have kicked out the starter batteries and now always start with the build-up battery, which turns the engine even faster, despite longer cable. Now I don’t want the alternator to charge the battery constantly when I drive. This is supposed to do the 2000W solar system on the roof. I also bother with that is charged up to 28.3V. But I liked less high charge Now I’m thinking: I’m installing a disconnect switch, which I open after the starter. Lima still has the consumers on it, but it’s probably all electronic. What do you think, there’s something broken or there’s no voltage peaks thanks to the regulator at Lima. Another disadvantage would be the lack of harmonics, so the smoothing of the voltage. Otherwise I would have to install e.g. 2 small motorad batteries a each 5Ah. Or do you have another idea? Unfortunately I come to the Li It’s bad to do so, in order to clamp off the excitement to check if it doesn’t load and the speed connection W is not needed. Touring counter is on.

Hello dear forum, I’ve already goneugled, but I didn’t find what I’m looking for, or maybe I didn’t understand 100%. That’s why I want to turn to you now. I’m driving a Honda Accord Type S from 2010. Now to the problem description… In September it started that I wanted to start the engine and it hit about 2 sec. until it started. Not top, but for me completely ok. Until December no changes and then the car is always swollen. even after the key turned around only a short sound came (starter turned), 2 sec nothing and then he jumped on. Often the car didn’t jump at all. When pushing on it he always jumped on without problems. After longer car rides >30 min with switched on heating, sitting heating and music he almost always jumps on without problems. After short drives without power eaters had to be pushed off and on. I always have this on the B after 1 day in which the car was not moved, I measured the voltage… 12,43V and the car does not start… what should I think of it? I ask for quick help, because I like to know what is missing my car. If I have not described something, then please ask again. Hope you can help me further. MfG. P4ss0

Hello all, last week my ten-year-old Peugeot with 75tkm broke the spring of a front shock absorber. Fortunately over the weekend in a stand, at 120 km/h on the highway this would probably have run out of fatal, because due to the design the spring has slipped over the position up/next to the tires and would have slit it in driving and/or blocked it… I did a little research, tenor is probably: Happens at ~100tkm times, especially with the French people and the VW group. It can’t be foreseen before the damage occurs. In the usual cover list on the Internet, the shock absorber springs don’t show up. Super. Question: How can I make sure that it doesn’t put me in danger of life by failure of safety-critical parts? How do all the old/youngtimers survive? Are there extended lists when you should change which parts (BEFORE they break)? Or does it just help everyone a few years to buy a new car? thank you, Andreas

Moin, is there currently on the market Diesel cars which comply with the Euro 6 standard(s) and could also comply with the Euro 6d standard (from 2020) already today? And above all: Do they have running culture, throughput, performance… – Do they bring fun and driving pleasure? Which models should I try? Or honestly, does a petrol/gaser have to come here if I want relatively clean performance that’s fun? Of course, in the future no way leads past e-cars, and I’m looking forward to it!

Good day, for this weekend I decided to change the headlights on my car. The new headlights are already equipped with an LWR which can be adjusted twice (height and I believe light cones). On Youtube I had watched a video showing how the headlights can be adjusted almost 1:1. For this the gentleman drove in front of a house wall and had marked the height of the light beam by means of adhesive tape as well as the slope(s) of the L ichtkegels. Yesterday I had put myself in front of a house wall for testing purposes, but did not get a light beam that can be “measured” as shown in the video. Unfortunately I received an appointment for a light test in my workshop only for the 2nd week of November but I can only set up the installation time on this weekend. Therefore, there are alternative possibilities to adjust the headlights as accurately as possible with the help of the simplest accessories? Or do I imagine a lot of easy too stupid to drive in front of the wall?

Hello, the Astra J got two new tires in front because the old inside had totally driven off. Who can explain “woman” the vehicle survey protocol. I worry about the red values, is there something wrong after measuring and adjusting something? To explain, it is not a combo and my son drives 160 km daily, especially highway. Thank you and greeting Mrs Astra