Hello, we will soon have a new (used) car due. It will become a combo of the category Octavia/Leon/Golf/Focus/etc. Previous car: Audi A4 B7 Limousine – soon this will be the second car. I have to say unfortunately, I can’t even park in smaller parking spaces backwards to the right with the approx. 4.60 meter long A4. Even if the car is behind me safely still 2 meters away, I don’t see where the car starts behind me (so disappears down) in the rear window), still where the Audi stops. I don’t know if this is easier or heavier with a station wagon. Of the length the cars take nothing, for example the Octavia is still 7 to 10 cm longer than a station wagon. But even to the front I don’t see where the car stops – it can be more easily estimated. I also have no exercise and there will be no exercise to it. Home parking space, supermarket parking spaces to park forward/backwards, work has parking space, The Audi A4 has nothing to do with parking aids, i.e. not even parking piesters in the back and we (my wife and I) have never had a car with any kind of parking aid. Therefore, my question, which technology one comes with some of the regular destinations have parking spaces or it is somewhere in the country with a lot of space. Is the rear-view camera a major advantage? Or is the 360° round-view camera even better? Self-directing system? It is only about the rear-right parking in narrow parking spaces in the city. With little practice and there will not be any practice, because I only have to do it very rarely. Close parking garages, narrow parking spaces to park forwards/backwards etc. pp. are no problem. But whether I have a meter to the rear car or 10 cm – I don’t know (and I don’t see it either). Whether I just come by while steering in front or if there is still a lot of space, I don’t have a feeling for it and I don’t see it either. Are there normal parking beeps in front and back sufficient, can you rely on them completely? Or are the further systems already in advantage?
Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum
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Give yourself a kick-start?
Hello, in advance: I myself have no driver’s license or idea of cars. So please be lenient if my question/idea is absolutely stupid. But the thought just doesn’t let me sleep… I learned earlier on on the TV that a very large proportion of ADAC inserts arise due to battery problems and can be solved with simple start-up help. Now I wonder if one could not carry a “replacement” battery for this? However, not for exchange, but for itself. So a battery with the right voltage etc., just with low charging capacity to make it easier. So a power bank for the car?! You usually also have a spare bike with you, so why not also such a thing? Or is there something that I don’t know about/see? Greetings.
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INTACT BATTERIE-GUARD recommended for battery monitoring?
Good day, as a newcomer to the MOTOR-TALK forum, I would like to ask a first question: I have purchased a well-equipped VW Golf 8 Variant (1.5 Ltr. 150 HP petrol manual gearbox year 06/2021), which unfortunately has no indication for the battery voltage and the battery condition. It seems that the designer at VW was more interested in ambient lighting with at least 30 selectable colors. Now I am looking for a way to get this very meaningful information with an additional device. The focus is on a product INTACT BATTERIE-GUARD, which could probably provide me with all the missing parameters. Has anyone already had experience with this module and would be willing to participate in any success experiences? I would like to thank you for a definitely helpful answer and greet you as a “newer”.
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Car doesn’t start anymore
Hello, I have the following problem: I wanted to start my car today but didn’t go, there was a knatter in some attempts, also the control lights were weakly displayed, Also the time is weakly displayed, mileage is not displayed at all. When I wanted to go home again and the car wanted to lock off it also did not work, with the remote control a noise came but the car was not locked off also with the key it was the same, only after 10-20 versu I think the battery is dead, I don’t know what to do, that’s my first car and I don’t know so well in the area either, so I don’t know if it could be something else. The question is what should I do now?? (I have no idea what to do now) I am a student and I don’t have so much money. Should I call the ADAC (without membership) b) call the ADAC but before that I have membership (d) ?? Thank you so much already in advance PS. I’m new here in the forum and am not sure if this is the right Therad, so sorry if it’s in the wrong place, I just took what was best for my opinion. I’m not sure if this is the right Therad, so if it’s in the wrong place, I’m sorry if it’s in the wrong place.
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European cars and quality of cables?!
As a layman, of course, I can only report subjectively, but often it seems to me as if one is driving from cable breakage to cable breakage. Doors, tail flaps etc. And lately it seems to me somehow as if Volkswagen and Co. are leading the way. For me a documentary about the Tiger combat helicopter has shot down. An incredible manufacturing process where one’s eyes fall out of perfection, and yet one had to face various cable breaks after a short time… . I wonder, do we in Europe generally have a problem with the quality of the cables? Do other manufacturers do something better or fundamentally different? Would there be better solutions to conduct juice in doors and co.? Or do you just have to accept this, physically inevitable?
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Klappennauspuffanlage für Jetski
Hello together, I don’t know where to go with the topic, so I’m trying here. I’d like to buy my water bike (Seadoo GTR 215 (engine: 1503 SC Rotax® 4-TEC® engine intake system…. Compressor with external charge air cooler, 60 mm damper flap)) a valve nozzle. In a water bike so-called water boxes are installed, through which the exhaust gases are guided. This water box dampens the soundscape through the invading water. Since the whole thing was too quiet, I have a co-operation with The sound is good and loud. A bit too loud in the long run, you can’t entertain yourself anymore and the WSP hears one already kilometers before. I’m looking for a solution now, I want to have the water box put in again and use a Y-piece with flap to switch between water box and stainless steel tube. Also solutions without water box can be discussed. I just want to between loud and le ise can switch. Do you have ideas? Best regards Tino
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new oil after 100 km already black ?
Hello, After 12500 km of mileage and km-stand 22800 I had two-year oil change at a free workshop – BWM Diesel 2.0 E84 with Castrol edge 5W30 C3 04 (LL). After approx. 100 km the oil on the oil measuring rod was already abundantly black, on the oil filter and the drain screw were also no traces -clean worked ! The question is, how black can the new oil be already after a short time ? In addition two pictures. The next time I change oil, I’ll check the course myself. If the piston sealing rings let too much through, it wouldn’t go well for long. The OBD probably doesn’t register if there’s too much “steam” in the exhaust gas recirculation. Even if one is psychopatic, it doesn’t rule out that they’re after his car (or money). Maybe everything is good, though.
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Interpreting questions on mixture regulation
Hello, I’m just trying to read a little bit into the contexts of the mixture control in “modern” petrol engines (without turbo). But I’m probably a bit stupid to understand it correctly: 1. False air in the intake: You always read that the fuel consumption here is high and the exhaust gas values (CO?) are no longer correct, even with the smallest leaks. However, according to my understanding, if some air flows in before burning, the Lambda control should simply be a too lean mixture a At least in the normal partial load mode, as long as they are fuel trims in the adjustable limit, the exhaust gas values should be correct and the consumption should remain normal, or where am I wrong here ?? 2. Cat function at full load If the engine greases strongly at full gas and switches off the control, then the cat garnix makes more or only a little worse. If one with full gas the Lambdasonden signal HINTER the cat (Monito rsonde), would that be a zigzag like the rule probe ??
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Euro 6 – Gasoline without OPF vs Diesel with DPF and AdBlue – what’s clean? What gets driving bans?
Hello, since we currently want to buy a car, we also deal very much with the topic of petrol vs. diesel. Since it becomes a used car, these used cars all fall into the range 2015 to 2018. At that time were relevant Euro 6b and 6c. In the narrow selection therefore a gasoline with direct injection and without OPF, i.e. a passat with 1.4 and without OPF. Later the passat got an OPF to meet Euro 6d. In the selection is also a diesel with DPF and SCR-K At, i.e. with AdBlue. So a later 2017er or earlier 2018er Passat, which was later certified according to 6d at the same time. But the vehicle just not yet and after-certifications will probably not exist. Since we also want to use the car for vacations, I have made some sense about the various driving bans in Europe. I noticed especially France (Crit Air). Among other things it is that the Euro 6 Diesel (even 6d) would get a badge 2. The Euro 6 B enziner (also 6b or 6c) without OPF would get a badge 1. It is known that Paris, but later also other cities and regions/regions (!?), plans to lock everything out under worse than 1. 0 would be eAuto. Then Euro 5 and Euro 6 petrolers would be allowed, but no more diesel – also not 6d diesel. My vehicle-technical question – that’s what this is about: Is a Euro6 diesel with DPF and with AdBlue not cleaner than a Euro6 direct injection gasoline OH NE OPF? Or why are Euro 6 diesel with DPF and SCR-Kat (AdBlue) locked out in France (soon) but not Euro 6 gasoline with direct injection without OPF? Or do I see this wrong, i.e. a gasoline with direct injection is nevertheless cleaner than a diesel with DPF and SCR-Kat? Would you like to answer the question in general, or if specific data are available: – VW 1.4 TSI with 150 hp without OPF (doesn’t have to be passat, the engine was installed in the complete model range) – VW 1.5 TS I with 150 hp with OPF – VW 2.0 TDI with DPF and SCR (was there also without SCR/AdBlue; in my case it is about a vehicle with SCR/AdBlue) How do the 3 motors compare in real operation with fine dust? (nitrogen oxides should not be a problem with all three, right?)
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Water in motor oil
Hey, long history. In my car about 1.5 liters of normal water were accidentally tipped into the engine. The car was driven a few kilometers after that. I immediately carried out an oil change with a new filter and gave Wagner Motor Cleaner into the fresh oil. I then let the engine run for an hour in the stand. In the stand it ran quietly, but during the ride it came to some jerkers. Afterwards I carried out another oil change with filter. I still see mud-like oil on the lid. It has become less, but not completely dissolved, and there is probably still water in the engine. Is there another chemical that I can use at the next oil change to remove the water completely from the engine? An engine cleaning in the workshop is unfortunately not in question for me due to the high costs. I thank you in advance.