Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Good evening together, I’ve been doing some research, but in the end I didn’t find anything informative or relevant. I bought two new batteries (wet batteries), but with the battery tester there are pretty bad (?) values. I used two different battery testers extra – it’s striking that the one battery tester shows another SOH like the other. The measured values are similar, except for the calculated(?) SOH. Capacity: 230Ah battery technology : wet battery cold start current: 1400A/EN rated voltage: 12V battery 1: tester 1: SOH 89% – 1156A – 12.75V – 2.32MOhm / SOC 100% tester 2: SOH 71% – 1182A – 12.77V – 2.27MOhm / SOC 100% battery 2: tester 1: SOH 89% – 1147A – 12.78V – 2.34MOhm / SOC 100% tester 2: SOH 70% – 1174A – 12.80V – 2.28MOhm / SOC 100%https://www.batteryspecialist.de/long-term truck battery SMF-230Ah-12V I am surprised that such a large deviation to the 1400A cold start current specified according to specifications exists. The batteries were supplied directly on the euro pallet outside at approx. 20-23 degrees outside temperature. Measurement methods were also set to EN. May this be so?! VG and thank you!

On Tuesday I had the shock absorbers on the rear axle changed with my car (Toyota Auris TS HSD) (at the pit stop – chain). The driving behaviour became noticeably better – but now I have a loud flap, like from a loose disguise or cover, which beats cheerfully. That was also my first thought, however, I had the trunk full and could only look at home. The disguises are all fixed, there can be nothing. I didn’t make it anymore, because I was on vacation the next day. On the way back I had traffic jams – I didn’t make it anymore. I haven’t put myself under the car yet. Someone has a clue what can clapping?!? I changed the shock absorbers in the back of a car only once, that was over 14 years ago, and there was nothing going on afterwards… The flapping (no polterns!!!) definitely comes from the rear, and is mainly from the passenger side.

Hello together. My Insi unfortunately causes problems… Already a few years ago I had to change the wheel bearing because the wreath was partly defective in there and thus a too low speed was reported by the sensor. After the exchange now the last years everything went great… Last time I was on the highway and drove a little faster… around the 240 things… at once the ESP brought an error message “ESP check”. On suspicion I now got the sensor for a new one auscht… of course Original ATE… Errors deleted from the system but it comes back as soon as I drive about 10km/h… I have now read out the actual values during the ride… all sensors report correct speed values…except the said rear right…there comes 0km/h…there comes thus GAR NO signal. Error code C0050-18 My guess is that somewhere is a cable break… I have already cleaned the plug and tried it with contact spray what but le ider didn’t bring anything…nothing comes up… according to my logic only a cable break (very likely) or a defect of the ECU (rather improbable, isn’t it?) ? What’s surprising is that the error first occurred at such a high speed… Does anyone know how exactly the wire harness runs that connects the right rear ABS sensor to the ECU? Do you have to use the original plug connection or do the TÜV Stress w Is there any other way to connect the cables?

In winter, we know that we have lower outside temperatures, which means lower intake and oil temperatures. Is it therefore practicable to refuel in a vehicle that is designed for Super Plus under these circumstances (under 5 – 10°C outside temperature) without hesitation and without any restrictions? Or are the lower operating temperatures correct, but due to the slightly higher oxygen content, the tilt within the combustion chamber increases again? Or do I generally have to use the Bren num (its design and spark plug arrangement) and can ignore the parameters operating temperatures?

Hello , Since my vintage car the ignition cables are over , I now need new . Factory is so rare , that it anyway no one knows . 4cylinder inline motor , with jam ignition . What are the Ohm values of cable and plug ? Have a new NGK ignition coil , which should be extra for contacts and Bosch candles . Who can help ?

Hello everyone, to pull my caravan I need a new towing vehicle. A diesel would be recommendable here, but otherwise I have mostly only short distance traffic, I expect then constant trouble with the DPF. So I tend to a petroler, which would not be delivered until 2018. Then this would probably have a Ottoparticle filter and I fear that there will be problems with short distance traffic again? Or is that with petrolers because of the high the exhaust gas temperatures are rather uncritical? Maybe someone has more detailed information, because the search function did not help me.

Although many are complaining that a thread is opened over it, I hope to find an answer anyway. The oil dilution in the current diesel engines, favored by diesel particle filter regeneration, is no longer a mystery. Especially the contained RME evaporates almost hardly out of the oil again. Poor lubrication effect is the result. As far as so good. Aral Ultimate Diesel contains no RME according to various sources, but now over a bad lubricating effect But how can there be a bad to harmful lubrication effect if fuels have to comply with DIN standards?! According to Aral this fuel even surpasses it?! If the fuel would endanger the injection pump, why is it nowhere reserved?! Please spare yourself comments like “they deserve it if something goes wrong “. If something breaks in the warranty period, then they have to pay for it and they refuse to do so, then they would also noc h lose a whole momentum customers. It is also noted that the vehicle in cold condition is not too overloaded. Funny if they deserve it. My vehicle is a Golf 7 2.0tdi Common Rail. I would be very grateful for informational answers about the subject of lubrication effect of Aral Ultimate.

Moin, yes, I’m old school and I like to hear middle wave (e.g. DLF, WDR II traffic information on 720 kHz, AFN, etc.) . A question to the real autoelectric specialists : I always had a VW Gamma IV in my Passat 35i; with perfect FM + MW – reception. A few years ago the original part gave up the mind completely, another used Gamma IV came in, all great. Now all of a sudden this had no more MW reception, just to rush and crack. With another Gamma I V, which works perfectly in another passat, no improvement but the same. What can be going on there? –> MW receiver part broken? Obviously not. –> Antenna broken? It is installed as ferrite rod on the radio?

Hello, I drive the Golf 7 mentioned in the profile with approx. 55,000 km on the clock. Recently comes the yellow MKL (sometimes after deletion after 200 km, sometimes after approx. 400 km) and the error memory shows what is in the attachment here. It can also happen that after a fresh deletion and drive, turn off, leave again … no error is stored. Also sometimes the error is stored, although the MKL is not on yet. Question: if I now delete the memory shortly before the HU e and on it hope that the error will not be deposited again at the next start: is there a badge? The readyness codes are missing then yes, but there is also no error. Thanks.

Hello Forum members I make a JRC about diesel engines and their operation. However, it is not yet quite clear to me how the torque curve or the course of the torque comes to the edge. My assumption is that in the optimal case the torque would have to remain the same over the whole speed range.Various factors influence this, which is why a low torque lies in the lower speed range, rises to the optimum point and falls again. Factors ( which I’m still looking for ) [b]minimize in order to achieve a flat torque curve as flat as possible. Is that so far? My conjectures: Falling torque in the upper speed range: Due to vortices in the cylinder, not the whole burnt mixture escapes during the blast and is still in the combustion chamber when the ignition is nearer. The burned mixture cannot produce torque. The fuel cannot distribute quickly enough in the combustion chamber, therefore there is no need for the combustion chamber. The time of the explosion is wrong, because it is not possible to move it as far forward (time) as possible. Otherwise there would be misignition, over the piston over the dead point (at the very top) would be. Thus, there is a lower torque and a limitation of the highest speed. The cylinder we are at some point exposed to too high loads due to the rapid change of the direction of motion. Limitation of the speed upwards. (but why can we do this?) This is true? What is there still falling torque in the low speed range The hardening of air and fuel is not right. Too little air. No optimal combustion. (But with compressor engines this does not look much better than with or without turbocharger) Which factors still play a role? which were all wrong? Somehow opening times of the valves, gas changes. What do the manufacturers do about the torque curve to o ptimieren? I know a lot of questions that I have there. But I also tried to formulate my questions intelligibly. I would be pleased with many answers.