Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello everyone, I recently moved to Germany (from Belgium), took my VW Polo with me, and now I have to go to the registration office and apparently have a main examination. Now few things are missing from the car, which is now already 18 years old. Which of the following would I fail the HU? – a scratch in the windshield. But doesn’t disturb the vision. A VW workshop employee told me “if you’re lucky, you’ll get away with it”. But https://www .autobutler.de/blog/gunstig-through-the-tuv says that I absolutely fail.-Gurte. https://www.autobutler.de/blog/gunstig-through-the-tuv says that the belts have to “function”. What does that mean? I don’t think there’s a problem with my belts, but when I unlock them, they don’t go back *as* fast as in the new car.-Slice wipers don’t wipe so well. -Right rearview mirrors. The mirror is not kaput, but the system on the dashboard to adjust the mirror fu unfortunately no longer nctions.-Close only works on the passenger side. -A (very small) collision against the bumper is rather improvised with cable tie repaired. Thank you for your tips! Korneel

Hello, I have installed ATE Performance discs, and also a new set of red ATE Performance brake pads. Before I had the serial pads. Since I wanted to try and improve even a little bit, I bought and installed the red ones, however it squeaks and whistles now after 500km every time the brakes are warm, and always on the last meters before I come to the stand. Had opened the window earlier and that was already very loud. Contact surfaces on the coverings are all thoroughly lubricated with ATE Plastilube, guide bolts also, saddle carriers and shots all cleanly brushed, derusted, etc. All pico. Can it be that these performance coverings just tend to whistle and I can do nothing against it? Antiquitschpaste should therefore probably not change anything anymore… Have now the serial coverings on it again. Optics is boring, but if it is quiet… Otherwise I see no mistake that I can If I try the greenstuff now… will it whistle too? Are also sports coverings. Greetings

Have in my bumper a 5 cm long crack / does not go through down / someone has had so “contact” with my car / so stick ! The crack is almost invisible / both parts lie as good as each other ! But with what ? 2 components ?

Never had problems with the battery on my vehicle so far. Also not with my new car zafira with s/p automatic so far not. I drive per year about 7500km and often only short distances. Who I read in the forum so I get fear for my expensive AGM Battrie, multicharge after. Think as long it s/T works is the battery ok?!! Am I right?!

Hello people, I am trying to buy brake saddle for my car and everywhere you pay a “old part pile” between 30-50 euro on it. I have never had that when buying spare parts. can I get back that deposit? if I have to buy a brake saddle for 150 euro and have to pay 50 euro deposit, I pay in advance 200. if I now send my old brake saddle to the company/dealer, can I get back the 50 euro safely? or can they say that the part is defective/rusted etc u and don’t pay me anything? and if they don’t pay me back the 50 euro, can I send back the goods and get my money back (if 30 days right of return)? thank you in advance for your reply

Hello, first of all I hope that I have landed in the right forum, if not, please move the thread. My car battery worries me something that may be unfounded, so I wanted to check here, with people who have a clue. I drive a Hyundai i30 GD, built in 2012. The following problem: Last year at the end of April, my battery fell after just over 3 years and I bought a replacement battery (Varta Blue), which my neighbor gave me Since I don’t drive much and if most short distances, he advised me that I should also buy a battery charger. I then bought the Cartrend MP3800 and thought that it was okay, it hung on every 5-6 weeks in the summer, in the winter now every 2-3 weeks. Now I had the charger on it recently on Saturdays and it showed me after two hours that the battery was fully charged. I was then on Wednesdays during the inspection and there you have among other things also d he battery checked, Ergbnis: Condition: 95%, charging capacity: 22%! Over this 22% was and still I am quite terrified, because I had charged the battery just a few days before according to the charger. I did not drive at all on Sundays and Mondays, Tuesdays 5 kilometers and Wednesdays 30 kilometers to the workshop (inspection). According to this diagnostic device there are no errors. I had the diagnostic device in the workshop attached last year, too, to check if somewhere from I also had the alternator checked, everything with positive result, i.e., no mistakes. Do I get too much head and are the above described 22% normal due to the current weather conditions (just over 0 degrees) and my driving profile? I still have a year warranty with my Hyundai i30, but I don’t know what to tell the workshop, which, according to the diagnostic device, do not find any errors. I now also have the cartrend against a CTEK MXS 5.0 changed, because that is supposed to be the better device. I am very grateful for tips and help, maybe I only worry unnecessarily.

.. no matter if construction, software development or test and trial. What do you do and what are your tasks? Satisfaction, salary, training, travel and company policy would be interesting discussion aspects.

hello, dear community! I didn’t know where to postem the topic. here it’s probably best. below the link, which should warn some. unfortunately, most people need a google translator or similar. however, you can also understand the history based on the pictures. it’s about the fact that some particularly gifted “craftsmen” cars from several parts build together and sell them as well. although everything happens under the link in Moscow, the vehicles for such basteleien come n from the EU. and when you think about it, you come to the conclusion that the same thing is probably possible with us. now the link: welded-up vehicles

Hello yesterday I had my TÜV, I have had the car for 2 years the then dealer has still made the TÜV – at that time the brakes were on- he had the brakes made new for 500 euro – so now to the list- operating brake 2 .axle effect unilaterally fixed brake 2nd axle disproportionate (exceeded limit) brake line mid-corrosion-weakened wheel brake1. left free-wheel drive not sufficient wheel brake 1 right free-wheeler not enough cross-carrier front corrison-weakened sta ubmanschatte drive shaft from the left ineffective how expensive could that come to me???? my car had cost 3500 euro,- a nissan almera N15 bjr. 1998

This question I ask myself because my instructors gave the task to explain the differences between small and cast oil pipes?