Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, maybe someone can help me or give me a tip. With my polo (already 10 years old – but still good) I had the gas fields of the tailgate changed in late summer. 2 Stabilus Lift-o-Mat were installed. At first I was thrilled – but now I almost regret the change. As soon as it is a bit colder (goes already at about 5 ° C in the plus area) the tailgate closes extremely bad. You have to thunder down quite nicely to get it locked in. If you have this there nn has done a few times, then it is strangely as before. Has something been done wrong during installation (something to adjust etc.) Who knows advice Thank you

Hi, I have two batteries in the car, a starter battery and an AGM battery. The latter for the supply of devices and as a start backup. I want to pair them now with a battery coupler for various reasons, such as Cyrix-ct 12/24 V 120 A and 230 A. To charge all this is no problem, but how does it look at the start? Suppose the starter battery weakens or is completely dead, then I can manually bridge the coupler and take the second battery to help. e Cyrix devices can handle 180A start current (120A version) and 500A (230A version). But how do I know how much current my starter actually needs? The starter has 1.1kW, which is equivalent to a current of ~92A. But is that really all? I have read a lot here in the forum and in others about it, because one number is thrown around the head up to 450A. The whole thing must work even with clear minus degrees, where the starter will have to do safely. The question is, Is the 120A version, which can be about twice the start currentStrength of what the starter should theoretically need? Or is the 230A version with 500A start current necessary? It is also a question of money, the large version costs twice as much, but also a question of power consumption and size. Thank you for helpful hints! I would like to not discuss at this point the sense / nonsense of such a construction.

Hello, dear motor-talkers! I think I found my own personal junk of the month, an “out-of-puff whistle”, which is supposed to imitate a turbo sound. 1. Does that work? And how “real” does that sound? 2. Can’t one do an extreme damage with such an exhaust system, because the exhaust emissions are hindered by such a splash in the tailpipe? 3. How can one!?

Hello, who can tell me where I have to switch between to start the engine? But please that I first have to press the key and then a button, nothing at the same time. To the car: a ’92 Westfield SE from GB! without big electrics! MfG Nookie

Hello, I would like to ask for your assessment of my brake disc, as I am not quite sure if a change is necessary. I drive a Kia Ceed BJ 2010 (135,000km). There are still the first brake pads and the first brake discs on it. I have now taken a picture when changing tyres (at the front right – see appendix). The brake disc has a minimum degree. And hold a lot of rust on the outside at the edge. Front right disc thickness: approx. 24,4mm Front right brake pad thickness: approx. 4mm V orne left disc thickness: approx. 24,5mm front left brake lining thickness: approx. 5mm rear right disc thickness: approx. 10mm rear right brake lining: approx. 2mm So brake linings I definitely have to change in my opinion. The brake discs at the back still look good. The brake discs at the front look good (no grooves, scratches etc.), but the rusty outer edge makes me worry and the age of 7 years? And what do you say about the brake disc thickness at the front? Do you even have to add new discs on here? Thank you in advance for your assessment Greetings

Hello everybody, it’s about a fog lamp being defective due to a small accident. The NSW should not be repaired or replaced any more; only because the standard NSW has never done anything anyway. Now the TÜV is available and one reads a lot about the topic. The range here ranges from “must be repaired” to “glue off” to expand. But the best thing is still “comes to the examiner”.Question: Does someone have a thoroughbred ck, with what little effort (without repair!) one definitely comes through the TÜV or which small solution the TÜV examiner must accept?

From level 3 onwards, I think autonomy is really interesting. Everything before that is for the driver who doesn’t know 100% how his car reacts in what situation in autonomous mode, sometimes with danger or too little attention (even though level 2 can already provide relief or safety in many driving situations). GM wants to offer level 5 – autonomy in 2019: https://www.businessinsider.de/…ric-car-no-steering-wheel-2018-1?… (I think you can get away with it.) Ford wants to offer 2021 Level 4 – Autonomy: https://corporate.ford.com/innovation/autonomous-2021.html Volvo wants to offer 2021 Level 4 – Autonomy: https://www.cnbc.com/…/…-sleep-watch-movie-on-commute-by-2021.html Audi wants to offer 2019 Level 3 – Autonomy in the A8: https://www.audi-mediacenter.com/…/…tten-zum-autonomen-fahren-9311 (though limited as a traffic jam assistant up to 60 km/h) Mercedes wants 2020 Level 3 – offer autonomy in the S-Class: https://www.autoguide.com/…/…us-driving-coming-s-class-option.html BMW wants to offer Level 3 – autonomy: https://www.bmw.com/en/automotive-life/autonomes-fahren.html This seems to be a strangely different progress, but if you look at the (planned) test fleets like this, it is hardly surprising that GM wants to be so much faster:http://www.manager-magazin.de/…/bild-1187122-1235711.html Honda could overtake the competition via Waymo; Does anyone know what the stand is like? In any case, like Toyota 2020, they want to have autonomous cars at least on highways to the Olympic Games in Japan; with what level exactly, I couldn’t find.

Hello together In the summer of 2018 I completed my apprenticeship as a polymechanic EFZ. Since September 2018 I have also been a permanent employee and now work for half a year on the job. I live in Switzerland. I like the job, because I am very interested in technology and I always liked to be a craftsman. Back in the 9th grade I actually wanted to become an automotive mechatronics engineer. I also sniffed both professions at the same time. Unfortunately, I had a bit of a penance with the applications, wes Because of many apprenticeships I was already occupied. So I still came to my apprenticeship. Since I am very interested in the profession of automotive mechatronics technician and I really like to screw, it still tempts me to do this apprenticeship. However, I still have to do civilian service and thus the apprenticeship start would be possible at the earliest 2021. Then I am 23 years old. As far as I know, it would also be possible to shorten the apprenticeship because I already have an EFZ. I think, because of my initial training, My question is now, would you advise me not to do so or not? During the teaching I could also live at home, my father retires in one year and my mother works for a few years. I have no claim to higher wages. That’s why I have to stay at home. Anyway, I wanted to hear different opinions, perhaps from people who have also made a second teaching. I am aware that in two years’ time it will be possible to learn a second lesson. But the motivation and interest in the profession have never left me. As I said, I wanted to hear your opinion. Thank you already in advance!

Hello, this thread is to be used as a discussion and exchange of ideas. Do you think that carbon will replace aluminium and steel as the primary material for the bodies in the medium to distant future? In small series with small volumes this is already common and give to build the body in the form of a carbon monocoque, but I wonder if manufacturers in the high-priced wholesaler (think here of S-Class 7s, 911er etc.) will use this technology. Carbon has how all-rounder emein known clear advantages in terms of weight and stiffness, so it covers exactly the topics that car manufacturers are looking for everywhere nowadays. It would also be a very good balance of the weight gain of the cars by more and more technology. What do you think, we see in the future luxury limousines or expensive coupes with a carbon fiber monocoque advanced? LG

Hello, I have a still working used starter battery, which I probably do not need in the next few years. Is it possible to keep this long time gently, without having to discharge itself or become defective by long non-use? Would it help, for example, if I took out the acid? I am grateful for every advice.