Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

My start stop setup has not been working since November.Was at the dealer who said, in the cold it can be that the system does not always work and the battery is too weak.Now I had the battery charged 12 hours, but still can not work, because it is not really cold yet.My car is just 1.5 years old.Had there ever been such a problem, I would be grateful about every answer. Greetings from Augsburg

Hi you can upgrade the car here with an AHK, then 3 Quad’s to weigh the a 500kg? In clear text you can then, if you have bought a suitable trailer to pull the 3 Quad’s? Please don’t make any stupid remarks, I can’t search from https://mobile.de/…/256905979.html?action=parkItem

Hello, on my car (one year old) the rubber-like paint is gone at the car lifter. You can see the bare primed sheet metal. No rust yet. Have never taken up the car with the car lifter. Only the workshop in the context of the inspection or my tyre dealer (winter tires). What can I lubricate on it and if possible that it also knows how the car paint is again? I found a pile of Teroson or what that means in the cellar in our house. how old the stuff is, and whether it can be used in modern vehicles at all? I don’t know! And then it’s still raven black! Or should I have it done better by a “friended” paintmaker? greet pagra

Hello, can someone please tell me how this type of seal is called, I need it to reseal the night vision system of my car. Unfortunately I find only O-rings, but I need the asymmetrical shape. A new seal will have approx. the following values: inner diameter: 30,00mm width of the cord: 2,00mm depth of the cord 4,00mm The seal should be placed in the gap of the camera on picture 3. On top of it comes a kind of glass plate, which with a bayonet closure on the seal The whole thing is very exposed at the front of the vehicle. Maybe someone will come up with an alternative? Thank you very much!

Hi together, would like to make myself self-employed the longer in the area of the car crafts. I worked a lot in workshops and made an automobile salesman training. Since I am now more 2 years unemployed (without references) I decided to make myself self-employed about a year ago. Was at the HWk , consulting discussions etc. KFW Bank consultations and and and and. Since I am unemployed as long as I am unemployed and I receive no references and thus I lived from reserves I also have no EC, what for many banks was a problem. Now the KFW told me that it is no problem for them and a local bank would possibly also support me if the business plan which I have worked out with the help of a tax consultant was more detailed. The written part, I actually get quite well but with the financial plan I urgently need help the important part. I have already talked with some companies, which would support me at the start of operations (L However, I have to estimate with the BP which services etc. I would sell per month etc. these plans are totl confusing and therefore I wanted to ask if here already jdm has written something like this and can help me far or where one can have some cost-effectively created with my documents. Consulting costs etc. of the larger Internet pages demand for a business plan 1600€ and upwards and I can not afford that at the moment. About any help would I Thank you. PS: please no comments like let it be with the self-esteem etc. (everything has been tried and many thought made, the decision is made). Thank you very much Greeting Jan

Greetings in the round. Jaja you know the problems with the control chains from the VW group. So far I was spared from it. The polo in my house has now almost 70,000 kilometers down and slowly the problems appear with me. Specifically it is about that the control chain causes problems when starting – the car takes a very long time until it starts, especially in cold condition, but also in warm. Before the chain jumps and tears, I called VW this week and after asked how it looks like with Kulanz and if you could change the chain tensioner – to prevent an engine damage that would be a disaster for me. I told the seller on the phone everything exactly, the problem explains that this is back for about 5,000 kilometers, just shortly after the service, which was 19,000 kilometers ago everything ran smoothly. The man on the phone said that it was all normal and no reason to worry and he didn’t want to buy from me that I have insisted that the car or the problem be looked at and made an appointment for the next week. In the afternoon I will take the car and leave it there until the next day because they want to test it in cold condition. What are your experiences with the problem? How do I best get a solution to the problem – from the guarantee I am out, built in 2011? You will guess it – I’m only 23, you will be able to So I don’t take as seriously in the car dealership as an adult in the middle of 40 – you know what I mean. I have already commissioned 2 services and a replacement in the car dealership after a small accident – so I am not an undescribed sheet, but stored in the PC. I know that Kulanz is not a must, but I will be able to expect 100,000 km without any problems. Avoid any ride now to prevent any possible damage. Just report if you have any questions. LG

Hello everyone. I need your opinion and what you would do. I have to stand in front of the door 2 cars and 1 RV. I screw as well as everything goes by myself. But the last time all 3 vehicles had to to the HU at the distance of 2 months. For example, a wheel bearing was changed at the RV and new brake belaege was installed. With the other car new brake discs came on the rear. No matter what I want to say, with my vehicles the wheels were unscrewed and again on it gem 8. Yesterday I wanted to take off the rear wheel with the one car. I soon freaked out. I stood with both feet on the lock, held on to the roof and had to grope. With a loud bang I got rid of the nuts. On all vehicles sin Alufelgen. I always changed myself in summer and winter and took with a torque lock from the work 120nm at the car and 160nm at the camper. Now the workshop with the airschr Aber die Muttern so schmackt in all the vehicles that I can not get them with normal tools. What are possible damage and how would you proceed or what would you say or demand to the workshop. I am pissed off at the workshop

Good morning, dear motor-talk community! In advance: Since I have just re-registered, I hope to be right here with my concern in this section. I’ve been rather quiet reader Now first of all to my 2 “problems” regarding tyres and brakes: 1. Currently I drive on my Focus 2.0l TDCi Winterpneus (DOT 2210).Speaking these tires are now 7 years and from the profile top, because I can use a company car for some time and the car a lot in the Gara However, they are now now now 7 years and tires or their rubber mixture also age. I have also directly attached a few photos to the tyres. The vehicle is mostly in a garage. Say the tires are cool and sun-proof “placed”. – Do you think the tires are fine and I can drive them with a calm conscience for a few more years? When would you exchange the tires for new ones? Cracks they probably do not have yet. From the profile they will probably Also in 2-3 years still be in order, but whether one should still drive a winter tire with 10 or even 11 years? To the framework conditions: I am currently not driving 10,000km/year and snow is also more of a foreign word to my area. Of course, frost still gives it from time to time! I just want to be on the road with a good feeling. To save on that would be simple and wrong. Just like with my next question about the brakes.. Now to my second concern – the brakes. 2. A few months I was with the HU and the Dekra “deficient” my brake discs in front and back. Primarily rather behind. I still got the badge, because the values have probably still been enough. Now as already mentioned the vehicle is currently relatively much and the discs are rusted (no airframe, which disappears after several brave brakes) The discs are now 7 1/2 years old and also not really worn out, claimed. The vehicle has not yet 60.000km on the Uhr. Also here I attach a few photos and wait eagerly for your opinion. I hope you can help me somehow. Nice week start still, many greetings from Hessen

Hello together, I would like to reduce the voltage in a supply line for the cooler fan as easily and cost-effectively as possible.So the solution should pack a certain power and not smoke directly.The typical voltage converters (ideally with Poti) I find are either from the area of the microelectronics or then directly 12V to 230V for the cigarette lighter Thank you very much!

Hello dear community, I have a question about “Zündkerzen mit 4 Elektroden”.Background: I had an Alfa Romeo GTV 2.0 for ages. So this awesome Italian sport coupé with the legendary 2 liter double nook. With this machine spark plugs with 4 electrodes were mandatory (works specification, e.g. Golden Lodge). Since these parts are really damn expensive (I have something of about 30 eurons per piece in mind), some have the significantly cheaper Bosch candles with 1 electrode installed and this often painfully with burned piston very bitter paid. I restore just quite elaborately a BMW E21 323i from 1981. In this case also an engine revision is due. In this course, among other things, an adjustable burst flow camshaft wheel, a 272° sharp camshaft and a stainless steel fan manifold will be installed. I would also very much like to use spark plugs with 4 electrodes (e.g. Beru UXT2). Can I do this without hesitation here or have such candles also disadvantages opposite the 08/15 candles with 1 electrode? Thank you ;=)) Jan