Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Servus, Have more or less from today to tomorrow the problem that my passat between 2 and 3k sounds like a diesel. If you drive e.g. at 2k revolutions and give slowly more gas, there is a point from which the “nag” becomes loud, but with further gas do not really give louder. Engine has power as always, oil is changed all 10kkm. With a video, as noises everyone perceives differently. https://youtu.be/kGzUcBiYvQI Meaning is the clapping at the full gas give the quiet “Ventilk Lappern” in the background has been driving for tens of thousands of kilometers. 200,000 on the clock, always warm. Passat 3BG with 2.0 and 116hp.

The term motor is only a synonym for an energy source. Likewise one can call a magnet an engine. If I attach a number of strong magnets below 45° to the road, and if I attach the same pole under my car, the car moves forward as well. So my question is: Why always only cars with engines?

Hello together… the following has happened… I needed starting aid today… because the “+” cap was on the “-” pole in the donor vehicle. However, both cables were connected to the poles of the batteries and not as usual at the car / contact point on the engine block. If I have no mistake in thinking then means that the short circuit is only “available” in the cable between the two batteries and thus the risk of damage to other parts of the vehicle. I have changed the defective battery today and everything is running without any errors. But I don’t know about the “donor vehicle” yet… it hasn’t driven since. So it’s still going to show up. What’s your assessment?

Hello, someone knows how the process with the current Euro 6 diesels runs, or I am interested in the PSA DW 10 2.0 with 180hp background: I received an update from Ford in May due to a calibration error that can lead to increase Nox emissions. In June he then regenerated the DPF 5 times in a row, the last time on the AB on vacation. Yesterday I am going home, shortly afterwards the regeneration started again 5km village and country road then 7km constant 100 km/h on the flat country road. There the regeneration was finished. This morning on the way home he started already again. Now I thought maybe a de-sulphatization is necessary and the necessary exhaust gas temperatures are not reached on the country road?

Hello together, recently tried to leave my Opel Meriva A (BJ. 2007) and failed, I immediately realized that it must be due to the battery (many short rides and the cold). I have now bought such a charger with voltage indicator for the battery. Before charging it showed 12.4V and after charging now 12.8V. Can someone tell me if this value fits? Should I still replace the battery in the short or long term? Thanks in advance for your advice!

Hello together, What’s your experience with 95 petrol in cars with chip tuning to continue driving? Of course not always, but only in case of emergency, if there is nothing better (98 octan or better) in the range. Is it OK for cca. 3300RPM or cca. 130km/h highway speed? I drive an S4 B8 3.0L TFSI supercharged and I’m looking for chip tuning offers. It’s also my long-stretch car, and a 98 petrol is not always available everywhere.

Moin. A diesel engine is known to be much slower warm than a gasoline engine. One reason is that the diesel engine generally has more mass than a gasoline engine. However, that is not the main reason. The main reason is more that when combustion is less heat than with the gasoline engine, which I do not understand at all. Diesel has more energy per litre than gasoline, because the energy density is higher, so less diesel can be injected into an engine than in a petrol engine and despite the diesel has a lot of power. But now comes the point that I don’t understand. Why is there now less heat than in a gasoline engine? Example: in a gasoline engine is now injected so much gasoline, that exactly as much energy is now available, as in a diesel engine diesel is injected. And the combustion of the diesel runs however, less warm off, than in the gasoline engine, although in both engines now exactly “same” energy available I hope you understand what I mean. And by the way, I’m new here, so please don’t be surprised if anything is wrong here.

My new used 2.0 TSI Passat Alltrack 35Tkm DSG 7-speed has this already feelable in idle and then up to max. speed slightly to moderately increasing / really uncomfortable ! Tires at the front new, back from last year / everything re-engineered (but: this is already there in idle !)… Ideas ? Help ?

Moin Moin, I left my Ford Focus last night at the Ford contract workshop and threw in the key. Date was set for Friday. Actually wanted to pick up the car until max 1 p.m., because I need it for work at 13.30 (deliver packages). The aggregate belt should be checked/checked, because it made squeaking noises in cold condition. At 11 a.m. the workshop calls me and says the belt and a tensioning roll must be changed. emen is already starting. Cost point 300 €. I give it ok and he says he will make it by 1 pm. 10min later I will be called again and I am told that the spare part is not in stock. Would only be there by Tuesday at the latest. I think great. I would have had a tour on Friday, Saturday and Monday. Altogether I lost almost 300 €. So I wanted to have a rental car. But that also only for 20 €/day and with 50 free kilometers. That doesn’t bring me anything. Our. At the prices I drive for free. Had actually hoped that I could get the replacement car at least for free but then Pustekuchen. Why take off the belts if you don’t have the spare part in stock at all to carry out the repair? He wouldn’t recommend straps on it again or only under exclusion of warranty if something happens then. So 300 € lost earnings and 300 € for the repair does 600 € damage. Do you find that so ok or how would you have I was the first customer there, so the car was always on Ford’s service before.

Hello, I need an additional power connection in the trunk (for radio). Have already read a few topics and also watched videos, how to put cables. But still I have questions. – How much does it cost to have something done in the workshop (very rough) – there are cable sets, which already has a fuse and does not need a great tool to connect? – Where with minus the mass? I hate to do it directly to the body, so simply to the minus po l the battery?! Have you done this before and can you give me tips? Please take pictures of it. Greeting