Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello ! I lent my car and it was all right . When it was returned to me , the gears were very difficult to switch and with noise . The lender noticed this , but thought it was due to the cold . The car would have driven normally and when he left in the morning it would have been like that . The mechanic now told me , the clutch was gone , it was burned and broken . He says the clutch must have been badly treated . Repair costs over 60 0 Euro. Can it have happened as the lender said ? So that he is not to blame ? Will do no one wrong , but the mechanic says it can not have happened like this . It is a Peugeot 107 with 54000 kilometers mileage . Can someone help me ?

Hello, I hit the bonnet last year due to a confusion of an uninvolved person (bunch). Of course I immediately apologized to the person and informed him that I will pay for the damage. About the liability the person did not want to let it settle. Therefore I will probably have to bite in the sour apple and carry the damage itself. A simple repair of the bump is of course not possible. (Annotation of the person and their mechanic) Disweg My question is: “How can I ensure that the bonnet has actually been replaced, and not only the dent has been bulged?” Furthermore, the person demands an expense compensation, as well as an impairment compensation. The expense compensation is fine and is also understandable. However, I think that the cost compensation should be paid for the entire bonnet. I hope one can help me. If I have taken the wrong topic forum, one of the admin can move the thread yes. If you are not able to change the name of the topic forum, you will be able to change it.

Hello, especially Cabrios show that the crash safety can still be fulfilled without any problems. A waiver of the B-pillar would result in better use of space and a better overview. In addition, of course, their optical appeals. Today, bodies have been manufactured for a long time by mixed construction methods. For example, the body is completely made of aluminium, the A-pillars and the other frames of the front window, however, made of a high-strength steel alloy. Opel Meriva brings Schmetterlinstüren with them, which open up opposite to Rolls Royce. If one would now leave the B-pillar out, that would be a completely new room concept. My picture example shows a coupe, but here too must be given de Crash safety and that will definitely be it with Mercedes! So why? Cost? I’m sure that the rear doors have to be hung up somewhere. But with opposite doors you could easily do that. iben is still available, as can be seen here at the E-Class Coupe. The manufacturers often show this in studies, but in series I am not aware of a 4-door vehicle, which does not have a B-pillar. As I said, the rear door could also be hung up in the area of the C-pillar, or B-pillar, if the vehicle does not have one. The doors would then open opposite.

Hello, dear motor-talkers! Yesterday I tried to free my little Smart from his parking space filled with snow. Of course the wheels immediately went hopelessly crazy. However, since I didn’t have my mobile folding snow shovel with me (), I still wanted to try it with gentle back and forth weighing… unfortunately unsuccessful. Since time ran out and I urgently had to go to the service, unfortunately also the frustration rose. Frustrated and in the hope that I did not do doc But instead of moving, I suddenly noticed a biting stench, which spread out in the interior. Shocked and to catch at least the next bus, I immediately broke off the maneuver and turned off the engine. Then, of course, the big riddle guesses began in the back-stitch, where this stench might have come from. My first thought was the tires. But could d he rubbers already reach such a temperature after such a short time of turning through on cold ice/snow that they start to stink? My next thoughts then became worse and worse… Gears/converters… The most interesting thing about the thing, however, took place only today. I was traveling today with my father and his Mitsubishi ASX (manual circuit) and we also got stuck. Even after a short time, after the wheels went crazy, I took almost exactly the the same smell true as yesterday with my Smart. So it’s the tires that cause such a smell even on ice-cold snow at minus temperatures after a few seconds of flipping?

Moin, as briefly described herehttps://www.motor-talk.de/…/…at-or-was-others-t5075597.html?… I have ruined the cooling water connection of the DSG oil cooler at Passat B7 due to stupidity. They are unround and I prefer to buy a new one. Soo exactly I get the only with patience round again or not at all. “Previously” I have fixed/- sticky cooling water hoses (here diameter approx. 2cm, sit almost 8 years firmly) either round-side running down with a screwdriver If or when it was possible, a screwdriver carefully extended something. Both did not work here, so, like “formerly” also , I carefully tried to rotate the hose at the circumference on the stun. In doing so, the stun moved at really only medium scraping effort itself and I left it immediately . Only at this time I had pressed the stun in diameter already slightly oval and at overpressure one to five thin coolant jets out 🙁 With solc I didn’t count for the trumpet sheet: So there used to be no such thing!!! 🙂 How do you correctly remove such hoses from the sockets nowadays?

My Mercedes-Benz Vito Tourer W447 from 07.2019 came to me with H7 light. In 2021 I had converted to “OSRAM Night Breaker LED-H7” which according to the manufacturer should bring 220% more light (compared to the minimum standard). The upgrade was an improvement, although not completely satisfactory. But OSRAM was at the time the only legal provider for my vehicle. In 2022 the “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 H7 LED”, which is supposed to bring 230% more light, was released for my vehicle. In the meantime, the “PHILIPS Ultinon Pro6000 Boost H7-LED” was also released for my vehicle. This boost variant is supposed to bring 300% more light. Now I wonder if a further upgrade would bring something. Does anyone have any experience in this regard, i.e. has someone from the first-generation Ultinon converted to the Ultinon in the boost variant?

In the Opel Astra j 1.4 directly in the cooling water thermostat is a heating directly in the opening element. It was explained to me so if then gives up the thermostat so that the warmer cooling water in the interior would mix with the cooling water in the cooler and thus the engine should burn even colder. That would also save fuel. I now have some doubts about this explanation. To one mad time discrepancy until the cooling water actually changes its time, this the The cooling water temperature is adjusted, then it would take again until the cooling water in the small circuit is warmer again and if it is ready to drive again. If it runs stupidly I would drive with it always in an unfavourable temperature range. In addition, the combustion temperature of air temperature, fuel temperature and Lamb Since determined, everything else yes yes less influence, I think even if on average the metal of the engine plus minus a few degrees has no influence at all on the combustion temperature and consumption values. And let’s assume that I have a performance zenairo like with hangers up the mountain and I am anyway above the temperature value makes no sense this solution at all. In my whole circle of acquaintances I only harvest headshake. Is this a purely Opel specific construct or have such a This reads like marketing speech, how in the TV sales channel this one tool replaces an entire tool box. But it doesn’t make any sense in reality, If I would calculate this or simulate it I would be sure I wouldn’t have a chance to work here Is there anyone here who knows more about this?

Hello, the rear brake pads grind during the ride, the brake pads don’t go back completely and the disc is already slightly red. What do you do in this case? What do you do in this case ideally? Do you want to make the brake pads and the caliper work again? Decompose and clean the caliper, is that enough? Or is this procedure better? : Press the piston back and push it out a few times. Should this not work,Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep.Rep. insert pistons into the caliper and when everything is re-assembled. Air the brake system and renew brake fluidity. Who has experience with it? And do I need Bimmerlink to drive the electric parking brake back for the action? Thank you

Hello dear people! I looked at the oil of my Mazda 323 yesterday and found small silver and black particles in the oil. I then screwed down the valve cover and it was totally soaked with pitch black grit, so several millimeters thick, I guess. Partially 5 millimeters thick and more. I think this is condensed oil. I touched it at a particularly thick place, and I had stone-hard little crumbs in my hand. Like hard coal the feeling has t. The area in which the connecting rods and the plumbing springs are were also black, but not so thick. On the inner wall of the cylinder head were also stone-hard black crumbs. I think that these small “coal stones” get into the oil cycle and are rubbed between the engine parts. And then small metal chips are sanded off. I think that’s why I found small black and silver particles in the engine oil. The engine oil was also quite dark brown, although I first saw it. My question: How bad is that? Is it enough if I continue driving the engine and keep changing the oil about every 3 weeks? I drive to the metro, where I can suck the oil free of charge. I pour half a litre of 50 % 15W40 and 50 % diesel in the engine and let the short chucker. Then I suck the oil off. Then I fill 3.3 liters 15W40 in the engine and leave the short tuckern Then I suck off the oil again and then I fill in 3 liters 5W40. And I drive with it again. Can the oil deposits in the engine oil dissolve in the course of time so sufficient that no silver metal splinters are rubbed out of the engine parts anymore? Should I remove the black grit from the valve cover? Should I also try to clean the area with the connecting rods and valve springs? Should I also remove the oil pan and the black grit, which is probably can’t you drive the engine for a long time? Or is it already too late? I bought a valve spy or a probe lesson and tried yesterday to control the hydros. Unfortunately, I didn’t know how to do it. In advance, thank you very much for your answers, Walter.

Good luck, I have an idea in my mind on my bus. Like all older cars, it has an indirect instrument lighting with light bulbs that illuminate the entire speedometer. However, there are plasma dials that glow directly. So that the needles for speedometers, rotary zalometers, fuel meter etc. can be seen, I want to paint the needles with UV light shining varnish and light up with UV LEDs instead of light bulbs. Has anyone already done something like this? Which LEDs would be suitable? How much mW of light output do you need and where do you get LEDs that don’t glow violet, but only emit UV? Thank you Baumi