Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello, in my car the window at the driver’s door didn’t open any more. When I was there to the inspector, I also mentioned the window that I wanted to fix it again. When I picked up the car, everything went again. But after 4 weeks the window didn’t open again. The next day it went on its own again. But now, after another 4 weeks it doesn’t go again. I drove again in the workshop. There they told me that the This would cost 200 euros. Then I asked what the last time it cost (I thought I didn’t have the bill any more) , I was told that it didn’t cost anything, that there would be 0.00. But at home I found the bill now, it says: Door panel unmounted and built in, window lifter loosed and fastened. 75,00 Eur o. (I assume that they didn’t deliberately lie to me, because this text went over 2 lines, at the end of the first line was 0.00 euros and at the end of the second line the amount was only.) If I put my car in the workshop to have it repaired, then I will also be able to fix it and not only temporarily hold it for a few weeks. On the other hand, I assume that 75 euros is also appropriate for such a work, which have finally built up everything and so on. .. Or? What do you think? Greeting 🙂

Hello experts. Here’s a report about which it is worth to meditate. Vehicle is a VW Sharan BMT 170 hp from 2011. Power loss and jerking sporadic. Gradually put off symptoms. Workshop read out several times without finding out. When it was time again directly in workshop without having to take out. 1 week troubleshooting later the diagnosis. Water in tank, dirt in tank. Fuel filter clean but renewed. Diesel sample Yellowish, foamy, with black particles. Marder damage Kraf fuel return line. Cost point of the invoice 850 € without further results. What do you say about it? I find this somewhat questionable. Bad diesel can definitely be excluded. And diesel stains under the car also (garage car). Fuel is the same tank for all cars. My guess is paraffine after service life or in the tank something dissolves!?

Hello, since no one in the Fiat Forum gets in the right way, I try my question here. The following: I have a Strada 1.9D year 2002. This drives without any problems, only when switching he holds the rotary zal too long up so that there are more shift trucks in the lower gears. This is especially annoying when you turn on a parking lot and then kick the clutch to hold on. Or when you drive over a parking lot and then kick the clutch. People look then Always, as if you were too stupid to drive because it still holds the driven speed for about 2 seconds. If you give gas in the stand it reacts a little delayed so probably with the gas acceptance and also gas removal. If it is cold, the problem is rarely present. Does someone here perhaps have an idea how to turn off the behavior?

Hey people I have a problem and hope you can help me. I have a plus and minus signal, and would like to switch a relay with this signal. So far so good. My problem is now that the signal is a dimming signal that means when I connect the relay it closes tick times until the signal is completely gone. Thus the relay almost welds. The signal comes from a computer in the car, signal is plus and minus 12 V DC, it is supposed to switch a larger circuit, foot space beleuch I don’t have a relay yet because I don’t know if there are any ones that open and close properly with such dimming signals. The signal is strong enough to afford up to 20 watts. Thank you already Have a solution? Is a 12 volt circuit Thanks already people MFG Florian

Hello people I have the following problem I am on Saturday evening when turning in a parking lot against an island with a high standing curb (right front tire). I drove obliquely against the curb so that the tire turned almost to the right. Then I drove of course on and had to find out that the steering wheel is slightly to the right about 4-5 cm. I looked at the rim after a few meters times but there was nothing to see any scratches or Dell First I did some (idiotic tests:-D) as if the car was driving normally and braking without touching the steering wheel to the left or right which it did not do. Now I have the assumption that it is not the track that has turned but that what has been seriously broken and it has not been done with track adjustment. Now I just wanted to hear from you experts or from some of you who have already had the experience what can be broken before my father drives my car to the workshop. Hope you can help me Thanks already 🙂

…is a big shame when buying and selling used goods. But what does that say? In the best case, that the car was regularly serviced by a specialist workshop, according to manufacturer specifications. In the worst case, only the checkbook was really maintained. Why do I write this? I think about it because I enjoy it, I am technically savvy and can do a lot of things on the car itself, and simply as compensation for my job, the routine work during the inspection or “simple” repetitions My Panda is a 2009er with almost 30000km. So not yet sooo old. The previous owner brought the car regularly to Fiat, as it should be. The car is technically simple knitted and reperture-friendly built. The Panda is not such a high-tech product and also not really a valuable investment. But as a small car it is quite ok. Working on the mechanics, such as oil change, filters, candles, brakes, timing belts etc., all this I can do without any problems. Of course, I would save a lot of money over time. Yes, I can do that, I have the tools, the rooms and the experience. I would then drive into the workshop for example to the climate service or to exchange the brake fluid or even if my possibilities meet their limits otherwise. The catch with it: the checkbook. I could not provide this proof any more. I plan to drive the car for a few years and surely comes the day when it is sold. Then it would be a lot of money. The missing stamps in the checkbook would fall on my feet. The car would be more carefully cared for than in some workshops, but not according to the checkbook. How would you do that? How do you feel about technically privately cared for?

Hey your friend in the forum, have a question for the people who have made experience with it! – I drive a bmw e36 323i 2.5 ride since 4tkm the 10w60 castrol edge fst. totally satisfied until now…no bit of oil consumption with the 10w60, had before the castrol magnatec 5w30 was also a good oil with which I used at 7000tkm about 1 liter oil for a bmw quite normal, so at 1000km it is about 0.2l verb also standard. – I don’t necessarily drive every day, if I drive the then until the really warm one is, there are days there I get 1-2-3 gang full out no question is clear, it must blubern. drive generally only in the city köln so not only around the corner or so, if then at least 10-30km I drive when I start the motor. I do not drive the cold motor to short to the supermarket or anywhere else, that is always nice warm driving. with cold motor not over 2500/min maximum 3000/min turnaround next course! if the warm is of course higher. – I know that oil at minus temperatures how honey is!!! that’s why I ask the experience that could give me tips or ideas would be super short and clear.- My question now: can I use the castrol edge fst 10w60 in winter, in my driving and warm-up or start in winter minus areas… look forward to any meaningful answer thank you! MfG KALELI

Hello together Everyone knows that in Japan all cars must be locked at 180km/h. Therefore, the tachos of Japanese cars usually go only up to 180km/h. Many of these vehicles I have seen in my holidays in England and Cyprus (in GB the km/h-tacho is left inside and calibrated on mph, the “km/h” symbol is stuck over with an “mph” symbol, on Cyprus driving quite normal Subaru Legacy, Mitsubishi Galant etc. with 180km/h-tachos around). On the website vo n BMW Japan, however, you can see interior images of the new 3 Series, where the speedometer is marked up to 260km/h. However, legally, BMW is also obliged to lock up at 180km/h. Does anyone know whether BMW actually installs 260km/h speedometers, although the vehicle is only allowed to drive 180? Do the Japanese BMW drivers need that for their ego? 🙂

Hello dear community, For now, I hope I posted this in the right category. So I have the following concern/”problem”. I bought an Alfa 156 GTA (3.2 V6 – 250 hp) 2-3 months ago. I’m still totally happy with ‘him’. However, I started thinking about which car I might be considering next. I’ll keep the Alfa for at least the next 5 years, I know – you’ll probably think now wi The reason is because I have been more and more busy with downsizing and just read bad things about it. I’m not a turbo-fan in general, I admit this too openly, but I might be able to become friends with a bi-turbo. I just love suction engines, because I like performance and cruising. So the following is causing me headaches, I also want to be in 5, possibly 10, years at my next car purchase. it is a car that gives me so much pleasure as my Alfa. But is this still possible at all? I think (so it is also in many reports etc.) that the time in which good cars are built are over. Vlt. I only exaggerate (hopefully), but one often hears it is the plan of the car industry to completely wipe out the used car market and I think they are on a good way to implement this. If I read this a Golf R with 300 hp (I don’t want any I think it’s just a shame that no good suction engines will be built! At some point a 63′ AMG will probably be 4 cylinders, sad! I just wanted to know what you think of the durability of a e.g. 2.0 4 cylinder motörchen with 300 hp and whether you think the cars will be ‘gedownsized’ even more. Edit: achja and what I forgot – as you can see by my user name, I love the s and it’s just suck motor, that’s not going to happen anymore – artificial sound module sound and empty cleared 4 cylinder sounds – that’s all that’s going to stay 🙁 Thank you for your answers, I know many would like to get upset about my post, since it might have been posted before – but please spare negative/unuseful comments, so you won’t see anything from me in one of your opened topics, Lg.

Hello all, I was advised to renew the brake discs and brake pads at the front of my car. Said done. I went straight on holiday and already made 2000km with the new brakes. Brakes work quite normal. So far so good But I hear a slight grinding noise from the front. When I touch the brake discs they are hot like a hob. Was today in the free workshop to ask if that is normal, they say yes! Allegedly with new brakes is always a slight grinding to hear because the coverings are very tight… and the discs can become up to 300 degrees hot according to the mechanic, which is also quite normal. Only when the disc starts blue or turns colour something would not be right. Is that really so?