Category: Fahrzeugtechnik Forum

Hello together, yesterday my friend wanted to leave and it was already the first gear difficult to go in but ok I thought it is normal that when the car was standing that doesn’t fluff.. After a short time (3 min) the gears could only be inserted with extreme power and a switching was almost impossible. The reverse gear also literally crashed in. Even during the driving the gears could only be changed by force. Then turned around and the car turned off and it showed up at get Reten clutch of the cars in the first gear and in the reverse gear began to roll. From this I conclude that the clutch does not separate cleanly. Today we wanted to go to the workshop and I get into the car (not moved since the defect ) and it is as if nothing had been. Car runs almost perfectly from the switch… This scenario repeats itself for a long time now and comes out of the blue. The only thing “helps” is when you turn off the engine and all the gears times with and without the hit clutch switched through and then starts completely normal. In 80% of the cases then everything works again. What can this be???! If the back bearing or the clutch itself were over then this would have to be the case or not?! By the way, the clutch is operated over a rope hoist, is an old car greeting and thank you!

have just seen a contribution on facebook, where a new technique is spoken of, which was developed by a 14-year-old. I find the idea in itself so simple and at the same time brilliant, that I think why you didn’t get there before? through your invention you can see through the columns of the car and see if cyclists or pedestrians are there. at the turn extremely practical. just take a look at the youtube video in the source and tell me what you think of it? certainly doesn’t take long until it is implemented, purchased or supported by an automobile manufacturer!! via: https://faktastisch.net/…/…gung-des-dead-angles-in-auto-found

Hello, have from the estate of someone a brake fluid stester. If I hold it in my brake fluid tank and in my girlfriend it shows 1 %.. If I hold it under the faucet full 4%. The results are good, but can I check somehow if it actually works properly? Or is the technology so simple that there is no possibility of distortion? PS: I think on both vehicles the brake fluid has been no more than 2 years Is it really safe that the brake fluid water mixture is not in the pipes? Greetings & Thank you

Hello together. I drive a Mercedes W205 Cabrio C200 bj 9/ 2018. During the last inspection, the air filter was not changed, probably because the vehicle has only 17tkm. With all my vehicles, i.e. the BMW K1200S and my previous car, I have or had a BMW E36 316I COUPE installed a K&N sport air filter. Because I put on a clean air filter great value, I play with the idea of the original air filter on my new-quality Benz against a K&N S Why do I want to build a sports air filter, and not a paper filter? I have to drive this car in the long term, and I promise myself that the K&N sports air filter does not have sound or performance, but rather that it is the economy in the foreground for me. The K&N is cleaned in between, or one blows it out, cleans and oils it, and then it pays off. After three to four MANN original filter, the more expensive K&N sports air filter has paid off with my previous BMW E36 I saved money in the 200tkm and 20 years in which the K&N was installed. Does something speak of a new Mercedes against the K&N sports air filter, except that one endangers its manufacturer’s graffiti?

Hello My son-in-law was at the climate service because the system has not switched on, but refrigerant was still enough on it, so it can not be leaking there. But it doesn’t run, the workshop has read out and the evaporator temperature is at -40° . What’s wrong? The workshop thinks the evaporator is defective and should be new. Below is the protocol.

When I had a soft chassis at that time, he swallowed floor waves and potholes without any problems. I have now equipped my VW Up with lowering springs and it drives much harder. If I now drive with the lowering springs over a pothole, is that already like the name already says, like a heavy blow. My question would be, could it stick away as well as with the standard springs or do I possibly break my springs, dampers thereby? Only the springs wu rden changed, the dampers are original and according to KÜS still in the border area.

Hello, for the maintenance lists for cars I know, the engine oil /+filter change is either after X km or 1 year. How do you do this with a seasonal vehicle that is only moved in the summer months (July to September) and is driven very little (less than 500km) in the year? It is clear that a good synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil1, Castrol, …) is not yet “consumed” here. But what about the additives in it if necessary? And the condensing was possibly collected in it. if the vehicle is housed in a garage for the rest of the year, which also allows an air exchange through the gate slots etc.? How do you do that or what do you think about it? Should you change the engine oil here every year or, for example, only change the engine oil filter every 2 years and in between after a year?

I would like to ask a few questions about the poles of a car battery 1) If the battery terminals turn greyishly black, then this is corrosion, which results in higher resistance and therefore worse starting? The surface has formed between the round terminals and the battery poles. It is not crystals, as one can find of corroded batteries on photos in the net, only such a dark surface. If one cleans this surface away and the battery again on the round terminals h 2) I cleaned the battery pole and round terminal inside as follows: * wiped off with brake cleaner on toilet paper * clean clean with steel wool * sprayed with contact 60 and wiped off * sprayed with contact WL and wiped off * sprayed with contact 61 and wiped off * glued round terminal onto the battery pole and screwed on * sprayed on battery pole grease (not between round terminal and pole, only from outside) Is this ok? 3) Battery pole spray t not before connecting between pole and terminal, but only after connecting, because probably not electrically conductive? I specifically used the blue can of Caramba. Battery is Exide, normal wet 12V.

Hello, I was yesterday to the hu/au examination, the tüv examiner has criticized, that the swarm has rusted through. Now my question: What you see on the pictures, had the same color as the car before the examination, the examiner is allowed to poking around and force a hole there (I was not in the workshop during the examination, so I can not even say if he used only a screwdriver for this). Greetings bret

Hello guys, I’ve already read through a lot of pages, but I still don’t know exactly how such a converter automatic works at all. But there’s a lot of non-knowledge mainly in the converter bridge. I’ve just read on the Internet that if you drive constantly on the motorway at 120km/h in 5th gear and then speed up slightly, the speed remains the same, but the car gets faster. That means that the clutch is active (closed??) But at different speeds, the speed increases inactively depending on the speed (open??). And that’s what I don’t understand. With my gearbox it’s like that, if I also drive 120 and speed up slightly or more (logically) the speed goes up with it. That’s how it should be or not? In the cold years, however, I noticed something. It’s the thing that the engine and cat come quickly to temperature. So, it’s cold outside and I start the engine and start driving. I speed up on the expressway at 70km/h. The gears are all switched by, BUT the speed is always just below 3000 rpm. So 1st gear 2800 2. gear 2800 3. gear stays on 2800 etc. Where does this come from? Is the bridge now open or closed? Another example: At a traffic light it goes sharply to the right to a road. I start –> Gearbox turns into 2nd gear. Now, I know. I’m on the straight and give more gas. The gearbox switches into the 3rd gear and the speed goes up to the speed of the 2nd gear. I don’t understand this procedure of the gearbox. I switch the car in M mode the gears are normally switched by as with a switch. So higher gear –> lower speed. Logically actually. A lot of text for a question, but I hope you can explain it somehow. I think I’m just too stupid to understand that Thanks and Have a nice evening to all of you