Category: Honda Motorrad Forum

Hello everyone. Actually I come from the Yamaha corner. A friend has inherited a Honda CBF 600 SA, which stood about 3 years. Now she is standing with me to finish her TÜV. Since she ran modestly and took bad gas, I removed the carburettors and cleaned them. So far everything was good. A week later she jumped again bad. Shortly after that no longer at all. Now I pulled in the schematic and searched the Rep. book. After that should actually be on the ignition coil. f a cable 12V and on the other mass. But I can’t measure anything. Today we spent 5 hours limiting the error, but did not come to any result. Maybe someone still has a TIP.

Hello, I have today, since I do not yet have a “trust” workshop, picked one out and found out on the phone, that for my Honda (PC32 from 1999) a chain set with tickles should cost 200€ and another 105 € labor costs. That is then about 300€. Is this a normal price? I mean ok, it is a workshop, which probably original honda parts are installed. Winter works grant 25% according to their statement, since we are at about 75€ work wage for 1.5 hours. But 280€ for a chain set I think it’s all right, especially since I’m not sure if it would be enough to tighten or renew the chain. The dealers always want the full program right away, of course, you finally make money.

Hello everybody! The old thread to my “purchase decision” has become a bit confusing, so I open a new one, hope you don’t mind. It’s about this ad:http://suchen.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=162533828 The seller (including the motorcycle) is on the way in my hometown by accident on Friday, and then it should come to the review and possibly to the purchase.The following facts: – CBF 600 SA – Tüv new, – 24tkm run – 24tkm inspection made – 3000€ Nac h Information from the seller the previous owner has once on his nose with the motorcycle at speed 30, has seen photos of the scratches, these are not so wild and would not disturb me. What bothers me, however: after this fall the machine should have become too hot. Then the previous owner had them repaired, the following proof was obtained:http://suche.mobile.de/fahrzeug/details.html?id=162533828 After that there should be no problems with overheating I have really no idea about the technology, do you think that is worrying? Or does the reperature look so far “okay”? I get the receipt about the 24tkm inspection digitally sent to tomorrow, I would post it here as well. Question is now: Buy or not buy ? Look forward to answers, and hope that you can help me again 🙂

Hello, I’ve been having a problem with my flashers for a few weeks. First the complete left side has failed including flashing signs on the tacho and for a week the right side has been spinning. My guess is that something is wrong with the relay (wake contact), because the whole side has failed and I sometimes get a life sign of links, if it gets a bit bumpy. Well, my question, I got a universal relay at Polo. Since it’s plug-n- play unfortunately doesn’t quite work, I wanted to ask how to connect it now. The universal relay is 3-pin and that of my Honda 4-pin. Can I connect the cables of my Honda now simply (so make 2-pin out of it) and on + & – ,so 49 and 49a (see picture), connect and omit the mass or how is the distribution at the incoming plugs (I had suspected + & – left 2-pole and right side 2-pole = 4-pole??). Or is this too nice to be true? I also have still taken photos to illustrate everything better. I found the relay at my PC37 Bj-03 in the front between the headlights, hope that’s the right one.? Thank you very much in advance.

Hello! I have a question in which the Honda dealer could not or did not want to help me. I would like to attach a Quadlock mobile phone holder with fork mount. Unfortunately, the CBR 125 R (JC50) has a “closed” steering head nut (see photo) Can someone tell me if another steering head nut, possibly from another model that is open at the top? Thank you very much.

My CBX 750 f started commuting the other day at 160 – 170 km/h on the track. The rear wheel still has a good 3.5 mm, at the front still almost new. Does anyone know what it might be that my motorcycle is comming? Furthermore, I would have liked to know how to convert the pressure information on the rear leg and front fork from psi to bar. Greeting, rüssi

Hi guys, what are the differences between the two ? So I read myself a lot, but I want to know which is more comfortable, which is ergonomically better and which is better accelerated, if they are both open. Because they both have 106hp or ? I sat on the 2011er 600F and it was very pleasant, how poured in. Years ago I also tested a PC25, but it had unfortunately completely worn out tires and was castrated on 34hp, since On the pictures the stubs of the PC35 look even further, so that it is often more comfortable? And often has an idea of realistic data, in terms of acceleration and top speed. One hears almost fantastic information, but also much contradictory. And if one asks, why then not a 1000s: No bug I like 600s and it should be something new, unfortunately my budget is quite limited.

I have asked two dealers, if I want to have 350€ incl everything for the assdrossel-packet. seems to me a bit much for two aces, two nozzles, the installation and enter… so I wanted to ask here for experiences, what your dealers so for the throttle nehemen. since I don’t pay for the throttle it really doesn’t matter to me, but this price let me listen…

Hello everyone, I found the old CB250 Bj.73 from my father in our shed the other day. Now I would be interested in how much a complete restoration of the machine costs and which workshops offer something like that. The motorcycle stood about 30 years unmoved in said garden house. Thanks already in advance. Mfg Brick’s house P.S. Could not take pictures yet but still

Hello Honda Community. A few days ago I got a Honda CB250, Built 73 to restore. Have a lot of experience with screwdriver technology, thanks scooter and car. I would like to introduce my project here and hope that I can bring this thing back to life. The motorcycle stood about 10 years +- 3 and is in the appropriate condition. The front disc brake I got to run again reasonably, thanks to fresh brake fluid and a lot of patience. Aber, without gnashing or similar. Oil he got today also new. (10w-40) Just removed the left carburettor… and sometimes “look inside”… My face, it is really bad resin. The “resin” has a tougher consistency than honey and it is impossible to get with brake cleaner or carburettor cleaner. An ultrasonic bath will not help at first, I guess. Do you have tips and tricks on how to get this stubborn dirt out of the carburettor? Acid o .ä ? A few pictures. Greetings