Category: Honda Motorrad Forum

Hi, I bought myself a Honda CBF 600 just under a year ago. Yesterday I was split to the fatality, and I left myself. Thanks to protective clothing, nothing happened to me, but the motorcycle The handlebar is bent and the switch. With the switch I get it, the change I myself, but with the handlebar I am not sure. I find the original not very nice, therefore the question. Which other handlebars fit without having to change the trains, which can you recommend (fahrko mfort and handling) and how strongly does this affect the feeling of driving? I will probably have it assembled, or do you think that I can do this myself as an unskilled kfz mechanic? Do I have to register this with the TÜV?

Hello together! This is my first message here) In advance I would like to say that German is not my native language) So if you will notice any mistakes, then please do not laugh (Is it allowed me to correct))))))) Ok. Now to the point. I want to buy a CBR 600 RR. Since I am a bloody beginner, I decided to buy a throttled machine to get to know it. I have already read a lot about whether the machine fits the beginner at all. In my opinion, it doesn’t fit (it’s about the machine with 120 hp), but I want to have it. That’s why I want to gain the experience with 48hp (or 34?) in the first season, then strangle the machine and enjoy the full performance later. P.S. Age: 32) What can you say for it? Is it worth it or would it be better to buy something else? Thank you in advance Vadeg

Hello my XX has a bit of a game in the handlebar. Makes itself noticeable in 2 wise ways. 1- My hands sleep after the new camp now constantly because the handlebars are all trembling. The master means this is the tire. But it is also just new and balanced shortly before this exchange of the camp. Was not before. My car master who did this says that he cannot set up the camp more firmly. 2- Already old and still!!! I drive through a pothole or over a hubbel I have the the feeling the right match between the camps would have to be as if the SHEINBAR would hit each other. Not during normal driving only with stronger cushioning VA. I always have. Does anyone have an idea because of the 2 problems. Cracks I can’t see any. Is there a means for what would make visible???

Hello dear MTler, This will be a report about a beautiful mopped that has become an economic total damage by slipping away in a slow driven curve. (BTW: To all those who want to insult me or attack me, leave it. I did not drive myself, nor are accidented motorcyclists fundamentally stupid.) A right turn with approx. 30km/h was driven probably still too fast. After too large angular position the cart slipped away over the counter lane and was then when it entered the P the guardrails came, literally front, back, left, right and top crushed and shredded. Here the first picture.

Hello guys, I’ve been browsing the Honda motorcycle side a little bit and I’ve noticed that Honda has been offering motorbikes for a short time that are designed for the new motorcycle driver’s license class A2 coming on 19 January 2013. The motorcycles have all installed the same engine. I would like to ask you a question. Now my question: The 48 hp that the machines have are the maximum limit for the new driver’s license class. Are the engines throttled or have the really a maximum of 48 HP? Villeicht knows more about it? Since I am finally out of my probation period next year, I might want to start a bigger machine since the beginning of my probation time the new CBR250RA is very happy with it. But she personally after the two years a little too little power on my chest ;D Have thought about the hornet, the new NC700x or the Galdius from Suzuki but if there were the 500 series of Honda with more power I would also consider them. Thank you for your comments PS: I hope this with regard to there is no comparable thread yet, have not found any (beginnerarlam) mfG of the Timme

Hi people can possibly help me. I am a novice driver and currently drive a Honda CBR 600 PC35. My problem is that she is already pulling gas up to 3000 u/m. And after 10 minutes the engine is already at 80 C, can someone explain what that can be? Is this normal or already elevated? When driving through the city it is already hot, and that in the weather. am grateful for any help

Hi, I’ve been a happy owner of a Honda CBF600 since last year. Since I only have a season mark, I’m ready to ride. I’d like to buy a navi for the 2014 season, the question is only which one. I’ve looked around and I like the “TomTom Rider Europe (v4)” (about 300€) quite well. What do you think? And very important, it’s a charging bowl with it. How can I build it on my motorcycle, or where do I have to tie it up without the battery being empty the next day? Vie Thanks in advance Flo

Hello everyone, my name is leo and I have registered here due to the following problem: I bought an old honda cb 50 from a buddy, which actually only consists of two wheels and a motor it drives great and has always jumped up to jetz. now I have them completely disassembled, cleaned and so on and would like to remove the wiring harness because anyway all lights are missing and not even a battery is available. The only thing that still works must be s is the ignition. Now to my question: How do I have to connect the ignition coil or the ignition component (no idea what that means exactly) to the pole wheel? there is a ignition anchor as far as I know… is it enough to connect the ignition anchor to the ignition coil or do I need any resistance or similar? already thanks in advance leo

Hello Specialists I am not quite clumsy in electrics, but the charging electronics makes me slow… To the facts: From the three-phase electric light engine (permanent excitation) come at idle 90 – 300V tip – tip (tested with oscilloscope) which corresponds to approx. 30V – 100V eff.. The connecting wires and the controller become warm (i.e. current flows). The controller (connected to a controllable direct current source brings from 14 Volt charging current into a partially charged battery, from 16V it closes briefly and the power supply goes on constant current with a residual voltage of 2 V (think this is the voltage drop at the diodes and thyristor). After disconnecting the voltage open the thyristors. This works at all 3 phases with both polarities. I also switched on an original used controller and a new compatible. The same problem. Cable connections were measured (goods ok) and bridged for safety. Unfortunately I do not measure any charging current (either AC or DC) and the battery is equipped with 800mA (for ignition without light). If someone could give me a tip… Thanks in advance

Hello men! I have a Dax ST 50 in org. Condition from 1977. Unfortunately I am not satisfied with the driving performance at all, since I also weigh 85kg. Now I intend to install a 72cm3 cylinder with “49” inscription and other carburettors to make the thing halfway mobile. It should not be more remodeling, since I absolutely want to get the Org. Condition. Here I have the following concerns: 1. Is there also something reasonable of Takegawa or similar? (or Ratiopharm) 2. Should it be an aluminium cylinder, or is it enough for a grey cast? 3. Are there then temperature problems? 4. Can the org. oil pump remain in it? 5. Which carburetor in which size should I buy? (restrictedly with an integrated petrol tap and good quality) 6. Are these replica carburetors working well and can be adjusted? 7. Can I continue to use the old suction nozzle? 8. Does the oil consumption increase? 9. Is it even recommended to convert the stuff – cost / benefit? Who knows about it and can brew Give some answers and tips? Ask for help!!! Until then cardboard spoons