Category: Honda Motorrad Forum

Hello! In a few weeks I finally have my motorcycle driver’s license in my pocket at the age of 39. But since I don’t know so much about Mtorraden, I have tried to learn about it in the last few days. I have come to the decision to buy a Honda or Yamaha! These brands seem to me to be the best of the quality. I am 193 cm tall and think that I can only drive the big motorcycles ( 1000 ), otherwise I get problems with the small seats!? For me it is very important to know from you which Moror wheels are suitable for me. Price and performance are secondary! I have thought about a Honda CBR 1000 XX! What do you think of it? I would like to thank you for your answers. Your Dirmax

Hi, her screwdriver cracks, I need some help there. I bought the machine (bj. ’86) over the Internet. At that time she had stood already 1 year in the garage, battery empty. She should start without problems, what she does with new battery also, but have start-up difficulties, so that she does not get the first approx. 7 KM at full speed over 4000 tours and about 60 km/h. But after that she runs quite normal. Well, yes. As I said, it does good, but at the first start She spewed from a ventilation hose and in front of the front silencer Spritt and after 7 KM she needed 15 minutes of rest before she sprung up again. I screwed up the carburettor and screwed a loose auxiliary nozzle again. Now she no longer spits sprung, but has more ignition oscillators and squirts easily white. I also mean that she feels hot. But good with it. After browsing the repair manual I am not sure if I can answer it myself sol l. The seller has already made it and maybe thereby adjusts the steering times of the camshaft and thus the ignition time. Who would have a few tips for me. Thanks first of all greeting HB

Hello, I have quite a problem here: With my CB 500 (8000km, BJ 2000) the circuit FURCHTBARST stops when switching down!!! This can even go so far that I don’t get the gear in the first attempt, and then have to step down again. However, if I have driven a few minutes in the 6th course on 4000 revolutions and then switch down, then it works like butter, but if I have arrived a few seconds later at the 3rd, it’s like before…. or what do you think that might be???

Hi guys, drive my CB500 now two years and was allowed to put on a new rear wheel tire every year (Bridgestone Exedra G602G 130/80VB17). However, I am only limited on the road and find a mileage of about 5000 km simply ridiculous. The part certainly has a lot of grip due to the soft mix, but I would like to limit that for more mileage. Long speech short sense: Who can give me a tire with approval for the CB500, which lasts longer than the bridge stone, recommend? Thanks for your answers in advance. alex

Hello dear Honda community, after a year of motorcycle withdrawal, I have to get back in my fingers; it’s got to be something with two wheels again Since the CBR (600) from the optical and from the experience reports on the internet very much liked me, this model comes into my closer selection. Especially the Underseat Exhaust looks very good optically. Since I am still young it should be the RR. I already talked with my insurance company, about the “high” costs I am aware. I have come across this one, it seems to me from the price / performance ratio to be quite good: KLICK What do you think of this one? Can you buy it without hesitation? What do you have to pay attention to? I have already bought and sold some cars, but in terms of motorcycle I still don’t have the very big idea about the technology. Thank you already in advance for your support.

Hello dear community, I’m new here in the forum and also newcomer to motorcycling. I’ve read a lot about the CBF as carburetor or injector. Now I’ve found this ad and I find it interesting because of the mileage. The carburetor doesn’t bother me particularly because I’ve screwed on older cars many times already.http://suchen.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=198245356 I’ve had to pay attention to it or how do I see if this motorcycle isn’t already dangerous anymore. n. Thank you very much for your comments Claude

Hello, after 20 years of abstinence I drive once again a Honda CB50J. I bought the machine used and I would like to restore some functions with this old vehicle (built in 1979) and refine others. Specifically I have the following problem: probably the valves in the cylinder head are not as functional as 25 years ago and the engine doesn’t turn as high as it could (max. 9000 rpm), even if correctly installed I have decided to revise the valve system of my little Honda. Now the questions: are there in the meantime for the Honda CB50J valve sets (valves, valve guide shaft, etc.), which are suitable for lead-free petrol? Can I do without additives for unleaded petrol if I have completely renewed the two valve sets on the CB50 engine? And especially important: is the installation and installation of the valve sets without special tools good or rather bad mö like ? Many greetings and thanks for your answers… Bernd

Hello guys ! I have a 1992 CB Sevenfifty, a RC42. In the meantime 77 500km on the clock, but actually a solid mopped At some point I must have been a bit too rough to the thru-axle at the end of the rear wheel, at least there is a minimal kink in it. Although this makes up a maximum of 1/2 mm it is enough to allow the sprocket and the rear wheel rim to be tammed visibly, which makes itself especially noticeable in the chain tension. Well, help nox – thru-axle must be renewed The best way to get rid of the rubber shock absorbers is because they had to suffer a bit under the already driven KM with the crooked axle…. So go to the Honda dealer – he has decapitated 42€ for the rubber shock absorbers, inclusive 20€ down payment for the thru axle (order article) When I called again today to ask for the part I get a positive answer – how nice ! Only the end …. I should bring 56€ with me…. hse (actually only one bar with hexagonal and thread at the ends) because really can cost 56€ !?!?? Then the second hammer : No, the 20€ deposit I have already deducted ! Bottom line Honda wants therefore 76€ for a simple metal part, that a toolmaker could probably make me within a short time on the lathe itself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That the original Honda brake pads are more than twice as expensive as those of the accessories (about 140€/set) is nothing new, but that with the axle shocked me now really Have you already had similar experiences with Honda ? gradually impoverishing greeting, Marc

I plan to get a two-wheeler next time and I got stuck at the honda hornet 600. From the optics and the listening to perfect for me: almost 100 ps, quick and agile, not too demanding. preferred use area are narrow pass and land roads, highway and speeds > 150 km/h hardly. Now my problem: usable bikes are barely under 4000 euro, and from the first series (16″ front wheel) one should also leave the fingers. so: would the suZuki bandit be a useful alternative? there is already for 2500 €, but has only 71 ps. Which is certainly more than enough for the beginning, but it is supposed to be an investment for the future. Or does someone know something better? With the test drive it is such a thing, because I have hardly any practice and can hardly estimate and excite the potential of a machine accordingly. I would therefore be grateful for every tip or advice. The other day, two motorcycles met, which were such a mixture of supermoto and naked bike, i.e. higher seating position, but not as large and as long suspension distances as in supermotos. Did anyone happen to know what it might have been like? PS: for statistics: am 23 and 1.81 large

Hello, I’ll be 18 soon and soon I’ll have the driver’s license ready. I wanted to buy a real motorcycle right away and I discovered the chic CBR600. The question is: if it makes sense to throttle a 105 HP motorcycle on 34 HP and if it makes sense to take a quite expensive CBR as a beginner motorcycle. I hope someone can help me further. Thanks, ..::[Slater]:..