Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

  • FFB i10 IA retrofitting

    Good morning dear screwdrivers, since I ordered my I10 Classic without equipment, I wanted to have the comfort of a wireless remote control. It is simply more practical in everyday life. I got a MT400 from Waeco. Also listed at Hyundai as accessories (at least according to pictures, not in text form). After a couple of emails with the customer service of Waeco there is no introduction for my car for installation. I have myself through a couple of instructions in forums of other models n worked through and the whole thing so half way to get to run. The vehicle up and down, goes already. But it’s just that after a certain time, the vehicle switches off the power supply in the vehicle. So I can’t use the FFB any more after about 20 min. No problem in that period. Maybe one of you has already retrofitted it and could give me a tip or someone knows where to get to the respective cables. I miss: Duration plus ignition plus flasher and a m best still the TFL about the comfort circuit thanks.

  • Remote radio control for central locking (Getz)

    Hello, today I bought a Getz for my wife. Was a special model, but unfortunately without remote control for the existing central locking. On demand, whether retrofitting with original parts would be possible, then a price of 400 euros was in the room. Does someone know how much the parts cost alone, or what there would be there. Otherwise still the accessory market would remain, which would probably have the disadvantage of an additional transmitter on the key ring. My wish would therefore be retrofitting with original parts, and just order one key with radio transmitter, since the other one hangs in the key box all year round anyway. Possible, sensible? Thanks already in advance. Mfg Hermann

  • Hyundai Getz loses the performance

    Hello together.. Can anyone help us here? My little sister has got a Getz. Unfortunately, I don’t have any exact data right now, but is a petrol engine. 1.1 L I mean. From 2004 if I have this right in my head. Her problem: car does not take any gas. You want to drive around the curve and it simply does not come out. It rolls in the stand gas in front of you, even if you pass through the accelerator completely. But the stationary gas runs clean, there is no jerking and it does not go out. The ignition cables were exchanged, without Improvement. The compression is also fine. Then it goes again and you get it at some speed at some point. Today we noticed that the engine was already very hot after a short drive (perhaps 4 km). The cracker was glowing, but the temperature indicator was fine. Recently the box squealed sometimes. Especially when driving in curves/if you hit the steering wheel completely, otherwise not. That is strangely not the case now since e The idea of the man from the works was that maybe the cat is broken (with the Getz installed vertically) and the exhaust system is almost dense because of it, or because of what else?!?! We wanted to look at it on Saturday. I still have the feeling that what is wrong with the mixture?!!? The error memory was empty by the way. Do you have an idea? Thank you

  • What should be considered when buying i20 EU import – differences to German models?

    Hello, I am currently looking for a new vehicle for my wife. Hyundai i20 as a 5-door should it become probable. In the car portals many EU vehicles are offered. Are here with the models / equipments /technics etc. significant differences to the German equipment to consider? How are your experiences?

  • New car driven too fast too high too cold…

    Moin moin, shame on my head.. I could really bite myself in the foot afterwards. What happened: I recently bought a new i20 (new car about 20km on it). Through all the anticipation and a euphoria I immediately drove off… onto the highway.. I may have brought here (rather cold than warm) the factory new engine one or the other times with kickdown near the red area (never into the limiter da DSG automatic). I am on this day etw a 150km driven, of which about 50km irresponsibly sporty and with high speeds. I know that you have to drive in a new car first, this information has hidden my joy only at this moment and my foot has sunk deeply… Now my question: Do I/have my new car now something to fear if I ride the next approx. 800km (up to the magical 1000km) nice gently and always warm? I hope very much that this slipper does not mean any early engine damage.. I ha Is there any experience here that might have been a little careless at the beginning? Can you make a general statement here like “the engine is soon to go” or “that doesn’t do anything”? Thank you very much! Greetings DSPE

  • High consumption Hyundai ix20

    Dear Forum, I bought a Hyundai ix20 style (1.6 liters of petrol, 125 hp, manual transmission) in March. In the meantime it has a good 5,000 kilometers on the speedometer. From the beginning the consumption was about ten liters on 100 kilometers. Only during a holiday trip during the Easter holidays with many motorway kilometers it was less – so about 8.5 to nine liters. Since then it has been another ten liters. The standard consumption is indicated with just under 6.5 liters/100 km. That this can not be done, was to me kla r. I had expected 7.5 to 8 liters. But ten liters?! In everyday operation I usually drive about 15 km long distances to work, for shopping etc., mostly rural road with a short piece of highway. I usually sit alone in the car and the trunk is empty. I drive cautiously, 90 to 100 km/h on the country road and 130 to 140 km/h on the highway, switch up early and refuel Super E5. Aren’t there ten liters on 100 km a bit much? Thank you for your help! Michael

  • I20 GB 1. Inspection

    Hello, Wednesday is the 1st inspection of our Hyundai i20 GB EZ 06/16, as the 15,000 km (already slightly above) are cracked. Is the gasoline 1.2 with 84 hp. Estimate approx. 158,- €. I find it a pity that you can not watch Hyundai during the inspection for “technical reasons”. What are your experiences (price, work, …)? MfG sano

  • Hyundai i20 – temperature-dependent clutch problem / no tunnelling at high temperatures

    Hello all, I have a Hyundai i20 1.2 petrol (handshift) built in 2008 with 78 hp. The car was parked last year for a longer time (approx. 8 months). When I drove the car to another place (at high outside temperatures) had a bit of smoke during the ride and the clutch went noticeably worse. At last there was no power transmission at all. Then the car was due to work again a few months. When I then drove again, I had to go on The problem was almost gone. Friday at >25 degrees outside temperature it got me completely caught: the clutch went after 20 minutes more and more difficult and after that there was again no power transmission (1st gear inserted, gas -> no drive). I had to push the car with a neighbor into the parking space and then from the ADAC to the workshop So the problem is clearly temperature-dependent. Does anyone have any idea what that could be? The car is already standing at the workshop in the yard.

  • I20 BC3 Bj.2022 Battery, is discharge normal for small drivers after x days nowadays?

    Hello 2all! Is it normal with an I20 BC3 Select with a comfort package – no Navi – (three-cylinder gasoline with 100 hp) Ez. 2022 or even with newer vehicles nowadays that the battery with owners who use their vehicle only every 7 to 10 days the battery falls very quickly under 12 volts? The whole consequence that the vehicle can still be started, but every time the time as well as all stored radio stations are gone? For vehicles older year of construction or b ei e.g. our predecessor I20 (PB Built 2009) was this fact of “low driving” to context time/radio never a topic. Is this possibly due to the fact that in newer vehicles more safety systems / consumers run the partly (or their ECUs) possibly only after a certain time in standby and or the constellation I20/consumer/battery size is simply not good ex factory? Has someone made similar experiences as described above and or has a useful 😉 ung, info? Thanks in advance and nice time for everyone! VG Walt

  • Mounting larger brake discs

    Gude, I’ve been driving a 1.4 i20 for a while and have always had the problem that my brakes have to get hot and be renewed. That this is due to my driving style is out of question. Now I wanted to fix the problem hopefully bigger Bremdisks, currently there are 256er on it and there are 280er which fit from the dimensions. Now to my question : has to be renewed since the saddle or the saddle carrier also and knows there by chance someone which I can take there/so ll? Or does someone else have the same problem and can tell me if this is even profitable or if there is another solution? I would like to thank you for having a nice evening.