Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

Since April 2015 I have the new Hyundai i20 1.4 CRDi. The windscreen washer system is a rigid fan nozzle. Unfortunately, this sprays already in the stand just once to the half window height. This winter I had on the highway from Berlin to Munich with snow and ice suddenly only a minimal sight slit just above the steering wheel: hell! Now a Hyundai workshop has on guarantee replaced the fan nozzle. Result: rather worse!!! The workshop manager says he would have e the problem already reported to Hyundai: so far no reaction! Unfortunately he can’t do anything for me anymore… But: Although this is only a small deficiency – he can be life threatening (see above)! Does anyone have any advice? WOLLKORB Munich

Hi, yesterday got an i20 GB with the following data: Motor 1.2 75hp petrol key number 5984/AAX First registration 12/2015 Kilometer level approx. 42000km The car was probably driven by a woman who got her foreshow about 1 year. Ah yes the mileage in the Tüvreport, which was made new for us is higher than what you see in the Tacho. Wanted to check if the car got to much or little new oil from the dealer after an alleged oil change. D he car was driven yesterday and then parked and waited for a few hours. Then I took the oil measuring rod out and first cleaned and put it back in. Unfortunately I could not really read how much oil is now in it, because the oil is very liquid. Then I looked again on the next day and against the same. In the appendix the pictures to it. Is this normal? Thank you Many greetings info: Checkbook was not continued, so no factory warranty. The service should be made 02/2019 and we’re at 04/2019. Well,

Hello, I’ve been driving a used purchased Hyundai i10 1.2 with ASG for a year. The car had 12,500 km when I bought it. Now the second maintenance was due with approx. 27,000 km. I explained to the dealer that I have been observing the phenomenon for a few months now, if I speed up quickly, then the speed from approx. 3000 revolutions in the same gear drops again and again or jumps, although I constantly and relatively gently accelerate. The Hyundai dealer told me after the maintenance has been done that the clutch is broken and should be replaced. Now I ask myself as a car layer: How can the clutch be due with an automated switching gear after 27,000? I was told that I would not be under the guarantee. Additional was explained to me, that can certainly happen if, for example, the ASG at the traffic light would not switch to “N” or at a lot of stop and go. So a little I had the feeling that I was being accused of a wrong operation here. However, I did not find anything in the operating manual for this purpose? Has experience?

Hello forum community, I have a question. It’s about the i20 (GB) 1.4l gasoline with automatic gearbox (converter) of my daughter. After how many years or km is the transmission oil changed with this model? Unfortunately I could not find anything in the net or here in the forum at all.

Hello dear forum, my parents want to switch from the Golf Sportsvan to a small car, among other things because of the size, but especially health-related after almost 50 years switch on automatic. Now I have researched a bit and heard about the automatic transmission from the i10 this and that… Not so reliable, high consumption, quite a change from the switch etc. Can you confirm or invalidate that? My father, however, who hardly drives himself, is very skeptical and negative about the change. My mother longs for the day, on which she can simply “dangle” the left leg, but also has respect for the change. On Saturday there is now a test drive at the dealer. Are there any special features with the vehicle and/or beginner’s error, to which I could point out my parents? Thank you for your feedback!

Hello together! I bought a Hyundai i20 about 4 weeks ago, which has now run about 50k km. He had a previous owner who was probably quite busy in city traffic. When braking I hear a dull grinding noise again and again (no squeaking). First I thought that this has to do with flying rust, which was also clearly visible at the beginning. Now the brake discs are free of rust (as far as I can see) and it still grinds. The car is always standing outside. I park on a quite steep slope and therefore always use the hand brake. When I loosen the hand brake in the morning and let it roll back, the car cracks once until it rolls down the slope, as if the brakes had “curved up”. But this happens with frost also at 10 °C. At the last inspection at 38km nothing was noted about it and that is only a year ago. I have read that brakes usually wear out after 100k km. Is it still possible that the brakes are worn out? And then what parts would have to be replaced?

Hello, I am currently looking for a new car and came across an i20 (GB). Vehicle data are as follows: Hyundai i20 Trend blue 1.2 First registration: 2014 KM Stand: 79,000 Power: 62kW / 84PS HU: up to 05/2022 Special equipment: LM rims 6×16, metallic paint, plus package (whatever plus package is ) Price: 850€ Since I am an absolute layman in cars I wanted to ask what I should be paying attention to when viewing tomorrow, whether the price is justified is and whether in your opinion the car does not have already too many kilometers on the hump. After all, the guarantee is already over since the car is older than 5 years old. Thank you already in advance for the answers

Hello. Maybe someone can help me here… would like to drive to the dealer for nothing. Compared to the predecessor PBT or an Opel Corsa D, the cooling performance seems very weak. Cools though, but rather cool than cold. I measure the cooling temperature tomorrow. Or is this a known weak point of the i20 GB? I also find that the blower barely reaches the driver’s footroom. Despite the highest level, only a weak train. Was also much stronger with the predecessor and Corsa! Is Does anyone notice this at GB II? Or should I really drive to the dealer? PS: After almost 6 months I will have an interim inspection (offer Hyundai for free). Here I could address these unusuals. Thanks

Hello dear forum. I’m facing a problem again and don’t know what to do. The vehicle is a Hyundai I10 from a well-known one. The vehicle is a Hyundai I10 built in 2015. Problem is that my friend has hit the road and then he has to brake hard because of the front man. Shortly afterwards ABS and ESP went on. Now I have sat on the car with the laptop. Reading shows that the ABS sensor in the rear Right is constantly standing at 21 kmh even if the car is standing. When I drive I get back left and on the right no signal. Bzw. Right 21 KMh. Since I didn’t really get into the error memory only live data could see I can see that the valves change the status on/off not available What I’ve done up to now: 1. Back right always 21 KMH stands I installed a new ABS sensor there. Unfortunately without success. At first was zero as soon as I started running like 21 KMh. 2. Cable checked for passage I didn’t take a short circuit when I took the plug off at the block. 3. ABS block Without success , error is smoothed as it is and the block still shows this status. 4. Read out during the ride. Right side 21 KMh, left side 0 KMH. 5. Backups changed tested. Also in the engine compartment. ABS block is not reachable even when I pull the fuse. Can both sensors be broken at the same time? Measuring with ABS block it shows clean 12 volts at the back of the plug of the sensors. Since the error is now on the right side also with the new sensor understands I don’t think so. Back left no signal could be ABS sensor but I don’t want to buy another one until the basic problem isn’t found. Since these bikes have ABS combi, unfortunately, they are very expensive. Visual inspection of the harness in the engine compartment does not seem to point out a mad bite. I just have no idea. Has there ever been such a thing before? Is there a cross point maybe a mass point on the car of the shit I can’t imagine that both ABS sensor I’m going to break the back because I have a strong brake, and that’s what the right side always shows 21 KMh with a new sensor. I’m grateful for more ideas or test stories without spending any more money.

Hello, I’ve had a little Hyundai i 10 with 67 hp and a 1.0 l engine / special model Yes The car is exactly what I’ve been looking for, but there’s a little blemish. At a constant speed I have the feeling that the engine is running uneasy, the car has always felt small “power holes” as if you were going off the gas for a short time. This happens even if the cruise control is switched on. In the workshop the car was read out and no error was shown. I was told that this was due to the small engine and probably normal. Now that the car is not the fastest and needs something until it is on the road I can understand, but it should run evenly in the quiet operation. I would be glad if you could help me.