Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

My first impression of the i 20, surprised me very positively. The vehicle offers sufficient space, looks good, is top with 5 stars in the crash test, runs quietly and offers very good seats. Prices start from 9700 euros, import vehicles with climate, airbags, ZV, metallic, 5 doors. Therefore, offers a top price performance ratio! I can recommend this vehicle only to everyone. From my previous vehicle, a VW Golf V, BJ 2005, I do not see any big difference in what the driving behavior and Hyundai needs to hide from no one anymore, has increased tremendously.

Hello. Kind of funny and sad at the same time. As well known, I will soon receive my new i20 Advantage. My neighbour wants an Advantage now, before they are all gone. The new one does not like… Only, mine (purchased at the certified Hyundai dealer) has no middle armrest. German version. This is available according to my dealer as special accessories. 2 other certif. Hyundai dealers offer my neighbor the special model Advantage (not the plus!) however as German model with integrated MAL (so not mounted afterwards!). He even got photos of the car, which the dealer just got new. It is about an Advantage and no Style or Yes etc. Only mine has no MAL and the one from my neighbour already a MAL. And both dt. versions. I have to cheat one of the dealers, and to charge an EU model as dt. execution… Really funny…

Wow, that really threw me out of the way. Our I20, EZ July 2012, with 5 years warranty, checkbook-kept, fresh from the inspection, suddenly starts to jerk when starting up. Had already from time to time “darkened”. No special driving profile. No special way to come to the dealer, he diagnoses: clutch defective. Too much driven with grinding clutch. My wife, for 25 years driver with almost 800 tkm driving experience and up to now no clutch “kap The car has to drive 2 times a week on the mountain, but that never presented a problem until now. and now: The user cannot handle the clutch. Since a defective clutch after 36 tkm is not a rule case, my wife and I wanted proof of the misconduct. but the workshop weighs off. That would clearly be wrong driving behavior. And the clutch does not exist on guarantee. then asked for a contact to the customer hotline (email or telephone). The friendly service technician spared me “that wouldn’t have happened with a BMW”. Sure that this service technician begs after a very good rating by the customer. Now the question to the Hyundai fan community: Are there even more owners who had problems with the clutch already after such a short time? have already seen some comments about I30 from the same year that had the same problem. not a part of “engine and gearbox” and thus falls into the guarantee??? Have a nice evening together, greet your Audioman

Good day, my friend bought a new car. A Hyundai i10 with the small engine 1.1 (approx. 70hp). It is the absolute basis. And now the defects: 1) No tank filling is enough 350km. Consumption of 9,86l/100km -> when refueling with the disk by hand calculated -> Even after almost 3000km no improvement. Route profile is mainly rural road and some highway. -> Does the consumption still decrease or is there something broken? 2) When starting and starting the engine the engine squeakes. -> W 3) Car is mostly in a heated garage, yet the rear brakes are fixed every morning, so there is a really loud bang on the road. Especially since this happens even when the hand brake is not tightened. ->Is there something wrong? 4) The car stinks during the ride, as the old cars used to have problems with the clutch. Sometimes it is there, sometimes not. -> Clutch defective?? 5)Otherwise, the footroom under the back seat. give tips so that we do not stand in the workshop completely without knowledge. So that the repair of defects can take place quickly! Thank you in advance for your answers! Greeting Bowmore

Hello, I drive an I20 GB. Question: my car has this new tire pressure control system, if my winter tires have no RDKS, then just a annoying lamp flashes or has Hyundai come up with something mean with the engine electrics?

Moin people, with my I20 GB (2015, 110tkm) with the small diesel engine (1,1l) I am pretty sure that this much too frequently regenerates… I drive to 95% only highway and there almost always 120km/h with the cruise control. So actually the ideal driving profile for a well-running regeneration and also for a rather rare event… However, my DPF on the 200km BAB track feels on average 1-2 times, more than 2 times per track/ride. I feel this then at the Momen This then increases by approx. 2-3,5l, so that it then consumes BC about 7-8l/100km. Since it normally consumes at 120km/h approx. 4.5l/100km and since we have here in the north of Germany (HH+Nds.) almost always flat highways, I am really very sure. This regeneration lasts then also about 25-50km (normally I think). As far as I am informed, however, the regeneration should take place rather all 500km (with a lot of short distance rather earlier, at Langstrec). It’s all 100km for me. Does anyone else have this problem? How can I check how often my DPF really regenerates? I can’t let it read out at the car dealership because I only drive on Sundays… :huh:

Hello, I have already put this question under a test report, because this topic was also illuminated there. Unfortunately without an answer, so I try it here with my own post. I bought a Hyundai i20 last year (data see profile). I like the car very well, unfortunately I also have a problem. The radio causes a clearly perceptible “spullenfiepen”. I was already there with the dealer, however, this said: “That is normal, would be with every car , I can just turn off the radio / turn on the music”. Noise available as soon as you get in. When the ignition is activated, it is gone as soon as the radio is switched on again. Does any of you have a similar problem? Is there a solution? Thank you! VG

Hello, my sister’s car has a problem with the crankshaft. As I understand it is the gear wheel, which sits on the crankshaft loosely or the screw is knocked out and thus the ignition time or the valves and the car has no more power. Now I have tried the Internet a bit and also found some forum entries for it. My question, can someone explain to me exactly what the problem is or send pictures? Is there by Hyndai The problem only seems to concern the Getz 1.1 and the Atos? Would be really great if someone could help us, because 1500€ for the Rep. is not very little. Thank you!!!!!

Hello you love, I am absolutely desperate! For about a year now my motor control light has been shining through. I was in 4 different workshops and no one can tell me what the problem is. I was also at a Hyundai workshop where I was only told you had to disassemble the engine completely, gradually, until you might find something. That would cost several thousand, which does not pay off. Now I just wanted to see if maybe someone has an idea or from it When it’s cold outside and the car is standing something, it doesn’t attract immediately when it’s starting, but only after 20-30 seconds. Sometimes it’s a bit of a jerk. After that, it runs without problems! In the error readout it always shows a sensor – all sensors have been replaced – none of it was the problem. I was only told to give the car the best turn and if I don’t overtake it and avoid the highway because maybe the engine at some point simply a I am really helpless and would be happy about ideas and advice! Greetings Anna Zum Auto: Hyundai i 10 Official name: “IA (I10 1.2) 5984/AAU EZ 2015 – ca 87000 km

Hello, I’ve checked around for the first maintenance and got the first feedback. The Hyundai dealer wants to have 233€ for the first maintenance. I think that’s a bit of it. I drive the i20 year 2016 with the 3 cylinder 101PS engine. I don’t want to go to free workshops, even if you allegedly don’t have any guarantee loss.