Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

My wife owns an I10 since Feb. 2013…5000 km running power about70% city….Question: I think the fuel consumption is quite high 8.3—-8.5 l…I was 2 times with the friendly master…..2 times he said I would see if there is an engine update….alleged …JA……after that the car actually consumed significantly less………what changed from tank filling to tank filling……..will the update be back again or am I stupid …..it’s still stupid ….. ………” mechanically “something has been changed……today !……who can help me……DANKE……for your help

Dear forum, here I would need a competent assessment. Yesterday in a free master workshop at my Hyundai i10 1.1/67 PS/2009 I had the wheel bearing changed at the rear left. Today I get the invoice for 261,80 € incl. VAT. Included is the position 1x wheel bearing unit for 164,80 € (196,11 € incl. VAT). I now feel a little ripped off, because my web research DEUTlich have spit out lower prices for compatible wheel bearing with ABS sensor. Has an E rfahrung here with such a repair or the prices? Thank you Frank

Hello everyone, since I (and the Hyundai workshop) don’t know any further I have a question: At my Hyundai i20 (2010 year, 1248 ccm, 57 kW, with factory built-in LPG system – EU vehicle), the engine clacks similar to a diesel. The noise occurred a few days after the last customer service (75,000 km). The workshop assumed that it was the steering chain, which had probably hung and then changed to Kulanz. Unfortunately without improvement. Engine still clacks. Above all, When driving evenly (i.e. without acceleration) the noise decreases or is hardly noticeable. At over 100 km/h there is nothing more to hear about it. The car also does not pull properly and goes off from time to time. The idle speed is about 600 revolutions. Previously it was about 750 revolutions. Since the workshop is baffled and I was advised not to delete the car, if it accidentally gets on fire, so that the insurance at least still paid the remaining value, I turn to you, because the workshop seems very incompetent to me. Thank you already in advance

Car: i20 petrol, 5 years old, 90,000km, tires, brakes new, patchbook. I have the following problem on average every 4 weeks (since about 6 months) for a short time. -poltern, drowsing from the engine compartment (feeling right at the front) for a short time! -Always on the highway at approx. 100-120kmh (no matter which gear, also free run) -poltern,dröhen as if you drive over cobblestones -On the road surface it is not, also not on the tires (problem summer like winter tires) – exhaust is fixed, also no lock find out parts in the engine compartment -No warning message on the display (ABS etc.) -If you then slow down speed below 60kmh (departure from highway) the problems stop -after that no more problems, until they come up again -leakage without problems! Also with strong steering! Otherwise also no abnormalities. Maybe you are aware of these abnormalities. Can I check something myself? ?(Motor suspension?) Yesterday I had the problems. Since then everything o k. Addendum: Have looked at the coupling rods (rube). Both have easy play. When you shake at it you hear a clacker. But you don’t have the feeling that this would be easy. Easy game stop. Otherwise I have not discovered loose connections. Also nothing turned out etc. Thanks!

Hello dear ones, after unsuccessful search in the forum I start above mentioned topic with the following description: My Hyundai i20 GB 1.2 Yes! Gold blue from 2015 had light up the engine control light for the first time in October. I drive with my Hyundai mostly long distances over the highway and country road (370 km). At the first reading came the error in the Hyundai workshop “Abgasgemisch zu mager” P2096. This was at first only deleted and did not occur for 500 km. Car hardly moved yet and drove with another vehicle, because I wanted to have both TÜV and inspection done in December, in which the error should also be fixed. So I left the car again at the workshop and picked up the next day and asked what the error had been. I was told that there was no error code anymore when the car was brought on stage. I was a bit surprised, but still drove. After I was about to get 70 km, the engine control light lit up again. I called and said that I would like to come directly by so that the error could still be read out. Here again the above error code was ejected. I now got an appointment for inspection at the end of January. In itself no change of my driving behaviour was carried out. Also the vehicle does not show any abnormalities with regard to the performance development or the like. I was told that I could despite After my last return from Berlin, the engine control light just went out during the ride! Between the last light like the extinguishing there are about 850 km of driving distance. My question now to you: Does anyone have a similar situation with their vehicle? How was that solved there? Maybe still ideas? If you Google the error code, various problems are displayed. I will continue to report on this, if I have more experience [From motor talk from the topic ‘I20 GB 1.2 motor control light goes sporadically to’.]

Hello Community, my i20 has been having problems for a few weeks. i20 EZ 5/14 1.2 Ltr, 86 PS BJ 2014 Fifa World Cup Edition 62,000 km The problem only occurs in foggy or rainy weather. The onboard voltage falls when the main beam is switched on to such a point that the onboard voltage collapses completely for a short time. As a result, I also have to adjust the radio etc. Curiously, this happens only every few times when switching on. If after a jerker the main beam again increases I also notice that the dipped-beam is getting darker when I step on the brake. But this is also only the case once in a while. Repeated braking is easy. I first thought that the battery is gone, but it is only 3 months old. I was with the friendly one today, who of course did not find anything. He said that he checked all the ground connections and greased them again and fixed them again. It was probably only a cable going on, which a He said that we could exchange the LiMa on suspicion, but that costs of course. Now, of course, I’m still wondering what that can be? I guess it’s related to the light, because somehow I rule out a mass error. I’m afraid that the car has now become an economic total damage. Such a search for errors will go right into the money. I still have a guarantee, but it will soon expire. any ideas on what this could be? Thank you in advance for the help VG Chris

Hello, unfortunately the workshop has found that the starter is broken and has to be replaced. Costs approx. 480 Euro for everything. It must be ordered a new starter, which is quite expensive (more than 300 Euro allegedly). The car is built in 2009 and has already 145 000 km down. I bought it then about 2.5 years ago used by the car dealer and paid 3850 Euro. I personally only drove about 20 000 km on it. So drive rather little and mostly only on the WE. Would you jetz t invest the 480 Euro? Or is that already too much for the car? The rest of the car probably fits so far, whereby the TÜV found last time an imbalance of the service brake on the 2nd axle. But was still in the frame, so that the car just passed still so. The next HU is due only November 2020. Whether I exist there is probably uncertain. The problem is that it no longer starts up and I probably cannot sell it in this condition either. Thank you very much.

Hello together, my friend has a problem with her i20 1.2l, EZ 2009, 60000km. For several weeks the engine control lamp flashes again and again. The car starts normal and after a few kilometers then, again for a few kilometers, the said problem occurs. Sometimes it does not occur at all, then again more regularly. Recently she has driven briefly in a row over 300km, that went without problems. We had on advice of a friendly car mechanic a cleaning additive i Now, unfortunately, the error is back again. Then I spoke to him just now and he meant, which is conclusive, that he can do nothing without permanent lighting. When the lamp finally lit permanently, it is to Hyundai and there they said that the 4th cylinder was defective. KVA of over 1000€. Among other things 8 outlet valves, 1x ZKD, valve shaft seal, control chain, engine oil, oil filter, 4x spark plug, cooling frost protection. In the work report: damage diagnosis, error memory read out, compression checked, (valve clamp 4th cylinder and irregular. misignition 4,cylinder wages I’ve been looking for forever on the internet. Unfortunately, there is quite often something about the valves (preferably for gas cars), outlet valves and that somewhere should be leaking and air is pulled, but also times that the cable of the Lambda probe was not fixed. Hyundai should be known with the valves. 1000€ are natural h a house number. Do you have any experience? Would suuuper be if someone confirmed the mistake or knew other causes and if you might get a part of Hyandai replaced after 5 1/2 years. Thank you and greetings to the round, Philipp

Moin, my wife has an i20 from 2014. Two years ago we noticed that very small “rust-colored” points were formed on the tailgate. Our Hyundai dealer at the time said that it was only pollen dust. Last year during the spring wash these “rust-colored points” were noticed again. This time not only at the tailgate, but also in the threshold area, doors, motor cabin and roof. Again we were told during the inspection that it was pollen dust and after a thorough washing with subsequent These stains were actually gone after a car wash and polish. Now exactly in the same places come again these stains. And this time I drove with the vehicle to a paintr to hear his opinion. And our i20 is not the only one with such a problem since the last 5 years. Quite clearly rust!! (under a magnifying glass very well to see) Partially this starts to bloom. Statement of the paintr ” you have to change all body parts (doors, hoods and fenders) and the rest would have to be sanded down to the bare metal, re-galvanized/primed/painted. A delusional cost-effective effort So our dealer called….. and this answer I got, I don’t like. Come by, we polish the car and then the stains are gone. loool!!! In the fall the 5 year guarantee for…do you want to deal with the warranty claims of the customer? What should we do now, so that now there is no fugitive paintr said, first of all at Hyundai, let everything be given in writing and then turn on a car expert. Will try to take some pictures this afternoon

In the course of the year we want to buy a new vehicle and probably we will turn our backs on Opel. A Hyundai can imagine my wife and I well. My question is now, is an i10 or better an i20? We are two, drive about 15-18 thousand kilometers a year and that to about 20% highway and 40% city and country road each. Up to a few shopping bags we do not have to transport anything with the vehicle. Sometimes we have a passenger back (up to max. 1.80m). is important to us: I am now looking for practical recommendations, references to specific features of the models, which models are particularly attractive, which experiences i10 and i20 drivers have, etc. I would be very pleased about every experience report and every recommendation.