Hello, I urgently need your help. I have been driving my poison gnome for 3 months now a hyundai getz. He has first registration of 98 and has so far driven 35,000km, the previous owner has never had problems with the car, the car has been in the gerage so far. Now it is always outside. For three weeks I have the problem that I have now stayed 5x. It starts quite normally and each time the track was different long and sudden during the ride it makes a short ruc k and then the symbol lights up with the car with the key in it, then my steering becomes hard so that I can drive just to the right. It always takes longer until it starts again, but when it runs again it is like it never has been anything. I was after the third time at hyundai in the workshop nevertheless they could not find anything except on Maderspuren and it is also nothing tapped. Now I need you. Does anyone know the problem?
Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum
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I20 Year-round tyres
Hello and Servus, I’m new here and introduce myself briefly: I have driven the Nina,bin so far VW and now switch to the Hyundai I20. Since I want to save myself the eternal winter/summer tyre interaction, I think to buy all year round tyres. Can you please tell me here if someone is allowed at Hyundai, or the guarantee does not expire, if e.g. a warranty case occurs at the chassis.? Some manufacturers prescribe certain tyres,with a German manufacturer (No…ni cht die 4 Ringe ) it should have happened already that a warranty case on the chassis was rejected because the vehicle had not raised the tires recommended by the manufacturer. Would be great if someone could tell me that.Thank you 🙂 Best regards,Nina
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I10 Year of manufacture 2017 Maintenance intervals contradictory
To all with i10 Year of construction 2017: In the picture from the warranty and service booklet page 18 in 1 year or 15000 km of maintenance then every 20000 km or 1 year However, I see on page 19 all 15000 so 150000 /30000 / 45000 That’s contradictory, isn’t it? What’s in your booklet of the edition 2017
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New Hyundai i20 delivered on summer tires – which winter tires / winter complete bikes
Hello everyone, I’m soon the owner of a new Hyundai i20 1.2 62 kw. Hopefully delivered at the end of October. It comes on aluminium rims with summer tires. The additional winter complete wheels were too expensive for me. I signed a vario financing agreement at sixt leasing. Now to the actual question… What would you recommend: Buy only winter tires and then pull on the aluminium rims or directly winter complete wheels. If complete wheels, then aluminum rims or steel rims? And a uf Which sizes do I have to pay attention to when ordering? I would like to get the wheels online.The following information is available for the summer wheels: Aluminium wheels 6.0 X 15 tyres 15 185 / 65 H Load capacity index 84 Can I take the same information for the winter bikes?
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With this way of driving Turbo 100hp better than 84hp? Never driven turbo. Driving feeling?
Hello. I am totally unsure which i20 (order hasten yes), we should order now. We currently have a 78hp from 2011. Very satisfied. Also pulls off the first meters well. No hole or kink like the current GB FL. We drive mainly overland 80kmh, highway 120kmh, and partly city. Now we drive e.g. at 50kmh in the 3rd aisle with approx. 2500Upm. At 80kmh in the 5th 2200 and at 100kmh in the 5th with almost 3000Upm. So hardly high-touring. Can anyone explain us how that feels with a 100hp turbo? Does the turbocharger come at 2500Upm? Or do you notice that only if you accelerate out of the 4th gear of 80kmh. Here the 78hp is rather lame. We are concerned about a smooth journey without jerking etc. Normal trigger stop. And the consumption (currently with 78hp always between 5.5 and max. 6L) should also fit. A test drive is very difficult. Our dealer has only one 75hp for trial driving. Also other dealers near no 100ps or 120ps. Thanks
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i20 BJ 2010 Question about oil change, spark plugs, rib belt
Hello together. Also I would like to wait for my i20 BJ 2010 (140000km, 78hp, petrol) in future as much as possible. For oil change: Which oil do you recommend me at 140 000km? So far the recommended maintenance specification 5/40 has always been filled. Should a thicker 10W 40 be filled in after so many KM in the future? And is the interval 12months still current? Drive approx. 15000km per year. For spark plug change: With our Opel Corsa D this is quite easy. The i20 is a single one (not like in the Opel in the block). Is there possibly a video/guide? V-belt: This was last changed according to maintenance book at approx. 75 000km 4th year (flat belt). Now it would be due at 8 years. Flat belt looks still “good”. No visible cracks / grooves etc. Is the effort in the workshop large b The tensioning of the belt should be the single problem… Is there a video/instruction here? Exhaust system is not a problem. Thank you very much!
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A new and a few questions about the I 20
Hello together, after I have been registered here for a long time on MT, I change the area now for the third time, this time here to Hyundai. Since last week Friday owner of a Hyundai I 20 in black, 100 HP, “YES” equipment from EZ 07/15. I bought the car with 67,000 Km unbd so far I drove about 300 Km, so far everything is ok. I still have a few questions; 1. what are the typical I 20 problems, so what do I have to pay special attention to? 2. The dealer has the winter tyres n mounted on steel rims, put the summer tires on Hyundai Alu ́s in the trunk. However, have no other wheel nuts with them. Are the wheel nuts the same for steel and aluminium rims? At my Kia there were different ones. 3. The round button above the buttons for the windows for the mirror setting is not illuminated, normal or what is defective? 4. The car has an air pressure control system for the tires. If the tires have to be renewed, the sensors are also renewed or the old ones still used? For your answers and possibly tips already many thanks …..
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Hyundai i10: “Miling”, grinding noise when the clutch is entered
Hello Community, my 2014 Hyundai i10 1.0 has been in my possession since November 2017 and now has almost 77300 km on the speedometer, was and is a faithful and reliable companion so far. About 6 weeks ago, a “grounding” or grinding noise appeared for the first time on the hit clutch pedal. I passed by the dealer and as soon as the mechanic tested, there was the demonstration effect, namely no noise. Now, after about 6 weeks, the noise has become worse, from What could that be? Outback bearings? Pressure plates? The Hyundai drives great, the gears are flowing (only in the morning the gear lever is ticking through the cold in the first few seconds or in general the reverse gear sometimes doesn’t want to go directly in).
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Climate after engine start always on – but does not want that
Hello, at every engine start the manual climate of my 1.2 WCE with silver package always switches on automatically and the blue LED lights up. Since I am always traveling without air conditioning, I have to switch off the air conditioning every time. Is there a way to start the engine without the air conditioning automatically actuating?!? Unfortunately, the operating instructions are not available… I would be happy to help. Thanks Roland
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i20, CO2 values with 136, tax and petrol costs and reasonable/timed purchase value
Hello everyone, I was relatively determined to get a 5000km run i20 with top equipment. EZ in 3/19 and demonstration vehicle. And that, I should write with it, although I actually heavy myself with an investment of 1000€ plus, because I do not know what the car market gives in 5 years. Whether we then buy something newer “modern” (without gasoline) and also, what then from about 12000 Invest then still hangs as a selling price. Of course a bit hypothetis ch, clear. Nevertheless important for the assessment of my situation (as I find it). On the potentially new car: Although the new Hyundai i20 has already met the 6dtemp standard in total. But, with its (84hp variant, 1.2l) 136g CO2 emissions (forerunners under 120?!) it will in the future be more subject to driving bans (even if this would not be a total neck strike) and will be significantly more taxed and thus to the already luxuriant petrol costs (which also increase significantly and with 6-6.5 Lite My question to you: Where is my classification possibly? Both the question about the high investment for a small person and the associated high maintenance costs (sprite and taxes of all kinds). And in general: About which period of the line-based use of gasoline do we probably talk here? Without knowing for sure? Several questions, thank you for many meaningful and useful answers!