Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

Hello all, I have a Hyundai i20 1.2 petrol (handshift) built in 2008 with 78 hp. The car was parked last year for a longer time (approx. 8 months). When I drove the car to another place (at high outside temperatures) had a bit of smoke during the ride and the clutch went noticeably worse. At last there was no power transmission at all. Then the car was due to work again a few months. When I then drove again, I had to go on The problem was almost gone. Friday at >25 degrees outside temperature it got me completely caught: the clutch went after 20 minutes more and more difficult and after that there was again no power transmission (1st gear inserted, gas -> no drive). I had to push the car with a neighbor into the parking space and then from the ADAC to the workshop So the problem is clearly temperature-dependent. Does anyone have any idea what that could be? The car is already standing at the workshop in the yard.

Hello 2all! Is it normal with an I20 BC3 Select with a comfort package – no Navi – (three-cylinder gasoline with 100 hp) Ez. 2022 or even with newer vehicles nowadays that the battery with owners who use their vehicle only every 7 to 10 days the battery falls very quickly under 12 volts? The whole consequence that the vehicle can still be started, but every time the time as well as all stored radio stations are gone? For vehicles older year of construction or b ei e.g. our predecessor I20 (PB Built 2009) was this fact of “low driving” to context time/radio never a topic. Is this possibly due to the fact that in newer vehicles more safety systems / consumers run the partly (or their ECUs) possibly only after a certain time in standby and or the constellation I20/consumer/battery size is simply not good ex factory? Has someone made similar experiences as described above and or has a useful 😉 ung, info? Thanks in advance and nice time for everyone! VG Walt

Gude, I’ve been driving a 1.4 i20 for a while and have always had the problem that my brakes have to get hot and be renewed. That this is due to my driving style is out of question. Now I wanted to fix the problem hopefully bigger Bremdisks, currently there are 256er on it and there are 280er which fit from the dimensions. Now to my question : has to be renewed since the saddle or the saddle carrier also and knows there by chance someone which I can take there/so ll? Or does someone else have the same problem and can tell me if this is even profitable or if there is another solution? I would like to thank you for having a nice evening.

I had a collision with a deer 11 months ago. I didn’t notice anything until the inspection at the car dealership, now I send the accident report to the insurance company. The car was bought only 2023 June for just under 17.000€ as new car, automatic. The passenger door squeaks and clamps when you open it. The frame is bent.https://images.gutefrage.net/…/0_big.webp?v=1720211979000https://images.gutefrage.net/…/1_big.webp?v=1720211979000 Here I have the and https://images.gutefrage.net/…/2_big.webp?v=1720211979000 I have all-inclusive with 500€ excess, partial cascade that pays in case of a wild accident, 150€ excess.

Hello . We are satisfied with our Hyundai i10 but 2 things have to be deactivated because this is annoying but so something from. 1) I got in and turn on the engine, already you have “gifts” until you have seat belts on. I don’t understand the whole concept, it “gifts” already when you have reached 20km/h and you have no seat belts on, why then start at the engine! Can you deactivate this? 2) Engine from key remains stuck and you have to pack out shopping. You open the doors and “Bimmel” is back. If I didn’t pull the key off then I wanted to, can you deactivate it? There are probably keys combination to deactivate that. Thank you

Hello dear forum, the problem with my Hyundai Getz 1.4, Bj 03/2009, I would like to describe to you once, because I was already in the workshop with it and allegedly everything is in order with the car. I bought the car six weeks ago with mileage about 86,000, before it stood about six weeks immobile at the dealer on the yard. Moreover, it is possible that the previous owner only drove short distances. At the first motorway ride I noticed then, that the s in the high speed range (i.e. at the entrance to the motorway) some grey smoke came out of the exhaust, which repeated itself during the next rides. A single time, after a long motorway ride in a rather low speed range with sunshine and running air conditioning, came on the exit while switching down a white steam cloud from the exhaust. I then was with the car in the workshop, on the occasion a complete inspection was done and… nothing found. The car mechanic could only assume that the gray smoke consists of residues (“dreak”, which would have dropped off in the exhaust, with the white smoke must have collected somewhere liquid. Probably this would soon lie down with the gray smoke, and it really only happens if I did not move the car myself or hardly ever a week. The white smoke, on the other hand, continues to occur after such rides as described above, also yesterday. The higher the speed, the faster the clacking. I’m afraid that this means a new visit to the workshop for me – but I can’t do without the car, because I definitely need it in the coming weeks. Do you have any ideas about what it can be? Then maybe I can find the workshop a mistake before nothing is found again… Thank you for your help Aljoscha

Dear community, I am addressing you as I have a problem with my Hyundai i10 1.1 liters 67 hp from 2008 that I can’t solve. Recently, the oil tank of my vehicle was replaced and the oil change was carried out about 500 kilometers ago. In addition, the entire engine compartment was examined for any problems – nothing unusual was discovered. The car was even raised to look for oil leaks or other abnormalities, but nothing was discovered. Nevertheless, my car consumes an unusual amount of oil. It consumes about 1 liter per 1000 kilometers, with slight fluctuations depending on the temperature. What is particularly noticeable is that shortly before the oil level is very low, the car starts to shake and the engine runs louder. I have already consulted all the experts in my environment, but no one could give me a satisfactory answer. The oil tank was carefully replaced and properly sealed. a sign of oil leak, no blue smoke from the exhaust and no smells in the car. Can you perhaps help me and give me possible causes for this problem? I am grateful for any advice or advice! Thank you in advance!

Hello, I come from the VW area and wanted to hear if there is already more known about the i20N here in the Hyundai area.https://www.auto-motor-und-sport.de/news/hyundai-i20n-2020/ The teaser looks delicious already.

Hello all, exhaust was loud, flex pipe rusted through and ready for exchange, as it has gone, you can see below. To mention that it is absolutely necessary to lift the pipe high enough to be able to remaneuver the pipe. The second is that one should examine the oil tank for rust, so that it does not rust after years.https://youtu.be/8VPlEbaqS4I Is on ENG, because international. Good entertainment R

Early when starting after about 1-2 km of roaring noise in the engine compartment, which increases with increasing speed and becomes quieter after about 10 km. Can it be the turbocharger?