Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

Hello , my parents are planning a new car purchase.Minimum requirement :Automatic , since they are both meanwhile above 70. An increased sitting position is also a must. Since they came to the Ix20 in the narrow selection.5 years warranty is also a nice gimmick. I was there at the first consideration and think that this vehicle would be for them. But what I noticed is that the vehicle has a not so great efficiency class.Class D is not really great. Now I wanted to ask v on you professionals, as the real consumption of the vehicle is, what’s in it of discounts for day registrations and how generally the vehicle does so. Would be great if you would list the pros and contras. Thank you and greetings, Adrian

Good day, I have since May a Hundai i20 1.1.CRDI 75 hp. unfortunately at the moment have not so much luck with the car. at about 2700km it started that the engine sometimes does not want to start only with the 2nd attempt or immediately after the start goes out again .. Car brought to the workshop nevertheless they found nothing. Now I was on holiday (3100km) and then it was extremely. Engine started and he listened like a tractor. At the 2nd start everything perfectly however the engine control leuc ADAC has arrived and read out the fault memory – pressure sensor signal faulty. Car back to the workshop. Nothing found. One Sunday I hit the car again and had the same problem. This time read out from the workshop. – High pressure pump. The workshop has written Hyundai a ticket. According to Hyundai: Check wiring and fuel system. Now the workshop has told me that it is bad diesel quality that I have fuelled. Also have di e sample seen was much brighter than normal diesel.. but I can’t imagine. That was Spritt from the Aral. And it goes on with the problem. I now got an engine control unit update 2 weeks ago and hoped the problem had been fixed now but right after the update came the error again before the before 2 months no longer occurred. Now it was an electrical error on the pressure sensor. Hyundai has now changed a wiring and a plug connection on the sensor. I hope the Problem is fixed now Do you have such experiences ? Or do you know what that could be ? MfG Sascha Weber

Information for the question round concerning valve sensors. Would be interesting to know if this technical innovation invented the same people who are also responsible for how bent a salad cucumber or a banana has to be or from which psychiatric clinic they have otherwise escaped.Otherwise, such a nonsense cannot be explained. Have a Hyundai i20 (simple equipment variant).That means without LCD display, but probably the same electronics as regards the valve sensor business. I don’t have a display where I see its position in the event of a wheel’s error, nor does a vehicle image display where the corresponding wheel is displayed.Also I can’t do any reset on the display as with the larger equipment,Mercedes,BMW,Audi etc. with LCD. Named for me and on request according to technical information from Hyundai, as soon as I set a wheel to a different position or change, I get the yellow tyre error indicator on the control light field. Since the system has programmed the values and the position of the wheels and the new positions of the wheels no longer independently recognizes to my tyre dealer or best immediately to Hyundai to reread and program the values against expensive money, since not even the reading devices at my tyre dealer have managed this.This I find a shameless intervention in the private driver life, since I now have no other possibility after a wheel change on a If the vehicle gets the badge at the time of the appointment, if the tyre control light is on here and I drive with this condition until the TÜV date? After about five years at the latest, the button cell batteries contained in the sensors gradually say goodbye, then new sensors are to be purchased again ( unit price € 70.- ) in addition to the wheel and tyre montage. Eldbeutel is already running. Greetings from an angry driver.

Hello together! I am just a little angry and therefore simply ask on this way, if someone has had similar experiences with the new i10. I bought the I10 in mid-December 2014 (since he had just 20 km down) Up to now had rather smaller problems, which could have been solved also during the annual inspection, which are there: – trunk lamp unfortunately does not work constantly with open trunk – for about 6 weeks my i10 is a te ilzeitrappler, wants to say that he doesn’t race on the way to work in the morning either in bad road conditions. Then he stands for about 10 hours and when I then sit in the car he rattles somewhere in the back the first few kilometers (I have really already looked everything – it’s nothing loose, it has solved itself also nothing (neither at the vehicle itself, nor anywhere in the trunk), so am absolutely perplexed – and today came the upper cloister…. The car has the g day heated up at the pleasant temperatures outside in the car interior and I had to drive now 40 km to home and was then allowed to find out relatively quickly that the air conditioning does not work, there only absolutely warm air comes out, no matter how far I move the controller within the blue scale and also at any stage the ventilation is on. Does anyone have a similar variety of problems with the new i10? I am absolutely pissed off…… should come by next week.

Hello, I changed all three belts and the squeaking was away for a short time. But it squeaks now anyway again. It squeaks but only after the start for a short time ( +/- 20 sec) and afterwards is good. I also noticed that it is not squeaking when it is dry outside. As soon as it has rained outside, it starts again at the cold start. Or if I drive through a puddle then it squeaks also briefly. When disassembly / installation of the belt I also noticed that the span r from the climate belt easy play has itself tightened up. Could that be the cause or what else can come into question as a cause ? Thanks in advance

Hello, I would like to point out here an aspect that might also be important for other affected i10 drivers. For more than one and a half years I have had the problem with my car that the headlights change by themselves, they shake up and down. Four(!) repairs from the dealer (guarantee) only brought short-term success then it started again. This lack is described in relevant forums more often, also my friend gives to the al If someone has not noticed it yet, pay attention to the surging sounds from the front (stitches) and watch your light cone. My dealer says he can do nochs at the moment, Hyundai is still looking for a solution. One and a half years for the solution of an electrical problem? You can’t do it, what’s going on? But now the hook comes up: A request from the TÜV and the DEKRA came up in agreement with the statement that it is sic h this would hold for a SURVEILLANT deficiency and one would not get a plaque in the event of a finding of it. Except the statement one works with “high pressure” on a solution one hears nothing of Hyundai. One should wait. This is now neither acceptable nor acceptable to me…

Since 11.2015 we have an I 10 with 1.2L and 64 KW. With this Fzg. we have the following problem: If we rank the Fzg. and thus also drive backwards, the car smells burned afterwards. Very bad is the burnt smell, if we have driven with the car backwards a curb edge, which is regularly the case with us in front of the house. For me comes this smell from the clutch. My dealer says that he checked it and my findings ni I told him that the clutch would smell burnt in 4 out of 5 cases if we drove the car backwards up a curb. The dealer kept his opinion and assumed that it was our way of driving. Does any of you have similar experiences? What I don’t want to hear now is the statement “that it’s probably our way of driving”. That doesn’t get me any further. Both me and my wife have been driving a car for over 30 years, pr with no other car and underneath were several small cars of my wife, we had similar findings in the same place.

Hello and good evening dear Hyundai friends …..I really have a big problem ….I have been the owner of a Hyundai i10 special model Pasion variant three-cylinder ……and now it’s exciting to notice that my car with switched on ventilation with air conditioning on or from at regular intervals this problem is especially noticeable with switched on cruise control …..so I described my problem after Hyundai and made a test ride with a master ….with the result that he also found this very funny and didn’t know this problem …..then we took a comparison vehicle and see there same error he does not pull right and jerks when the ventilation is switched on …. general perplexity with the technician so he got in touch with Hyundai ….they wanted us to record a test drive with laptop ..said done laptop connected and the untypical driving method marked ….the dropouts were also z u see ….as far as data is sent and maintained to Hyundai …….Today the call received from the dealership Muhra … Hyundai also saw the data read out …..but unfortunately this is a typical behavior for a three-cylinder and cannot be fixed ….I must live with this driving behaviour as a customer ….The technician of Hyundai himself was speechless and meant that he could never live with such driving behavior …..now it probably runs on a change h but that can’t be the Hyundai 2016 technology …….my call might be driving some of you a Hyundai i10 pasion Three-cylinder check it out with you ….I find this answer yes we see it but we can’t change anything very unsatisfactory

Hello, I know, the question is now perhaps a bit stupid for many. But I have to give the insurance soon my current mileage. Where can I find this? Bzw. Where I suspect it will be 20,876 km.. I bought the car a year ago with 78000 km. Can someone please help me? On the Internet I find no answer to it. Already thanks ?? PS: a photo I have added in the attachment