Category: Hyundai i10, i20, ix20, Atos, Bayon & Getz Forum

Hello Hyundai Forum, As a loyal Opel customer I looked at the new IX 20 last week. I immediately liked the vehicle very much. Has anyone ever had experience with the IX 20 ? Which of the three engines are recommended ? Whether I will be satisfied with an IX 20 as an Opel Astra driver ? What about maintenance and spare parts costs at Hyundai ? Thanks ahead for the answers

Hello together, have the following problem. Mostly the Atos brakes quite normal, everything paletti. In between then the following error: No brake power amplifier, thus hardly any braking effect and a metallic noise. This problem is really to vomit, especially since I can not make a rhyme on it. You can enter the brake with all the force and there is no change. Then it stops completely normal again. This error can not occur at all for two weeks and there nn again several times in one day. The car now has about 125,000 km down. Does anyone have an idea??? Igelbuggy

Hello! We are just looking for a (used) city flicker for my mother. Condition: large trunk and folding roof. In the surrounding area I found a dealer who offers an i10 with folding roof as a daily registration. But… the vehicle is (against the online description) only a basic model, i.e. there is a radio incl. speakers and the air conditioning. The latter is not tragic, the simple ventilation is enough for her (which should probably be included. At least the buttons are It doesn’t like air conditioners anyway. Now it shouldn’t be a problem for a dealer to buy and install the original radio including the speakers and AUX/USB connections, should it? Or is Hyundai here just like the other manufacturers also: What is not provided in the package is also missing in the wire harness. Does anyone have experience there? Neelix

Tach, my i20 (from 2016) now has these tire pressure sensors, that’s not what I had yet. Since yesterday evening a rear tyre has lost pressure (probably because it was driven over some kind of harmless-looking stringer after the storm, was partly full of it…). So, in the evening the warning light was on, I then “filled up” at the gas station – one tyre was at 1.7 bar, while the other one was at 2, I pumped up to 2.0. A few minutes later the display went out again. This morning the light was on again, was in the afternoon with the tank, and again so 1,6.,1,7 bar. There is then probably a hole in there or whatever… Have with the vector 4 seasons mature about 10’000km down, then means probably, 2 new, what? Until I have a workshop appointment, I would have to put the spare wheel on it. (I think with my equipment a real wheel in it, no plastic bumps) Do you have to pay special attention to something because of the sensors there?

Where are the main differences to the purchase decision for Neuwagen Kauf Modelyear 2017 Dacia Sandero Laureate: technical more series Equipment e.g. generally LED daytime running light more spacious only 3 years warranty up to 100 000 km Hyundai Classic i10: see only the 5 year warranty without mileage limit What do you think? Quality differences?

hello dear hyndai community! I’ve been looking for a new cheap little city flicker for my sister for some time now and I’m stuck with the i20. find the price of 10,000€ for a new unbeatable! e.g. for a corsa, polo, fabia etc… you have to put some notes on it. unfortunately, I don’t know at all in the class, so far I’ve only driven bmw diesel vehicles. my question to you, would you recommend the car? known problems? how are your experiences with the 5 year guarantee? are the defective ones really taken over, or is that only son marketing thing where you end up sitting on the cost? can always be broken something, but the bag should already hold few years, driving profile, about 10tkm/year 95% city traffic I would be happy about any answer! Greetings, jogi

I noticed today that a component starts to rust down in the engine compartment, I think it’s the stabilizer but I don’t know. Maybe someone can tell me which component that is and if so, whether it looks like that with it. In itself, I find it worrying that after a year it looks like this even though it still seems very superficial. In itself, there is little salt in the winter as there is a plate in the front that protects the area halfway. Either way, I was also also min. once a month in the wash road. At the last inspection (the 1.) I was not addressed to this point.

Hello! I need some tips, because our i20 is driven by the daughter, who studies far away in Greifswald. Supposedly the climate does not go or only insufficient. The car has only 53,000km on it. My questions go in the direction of operation before a Hyundai representative is visited, which is unfortunately not available at the study site, which significantly increases the effort. 1. The climate is switched on when the lights are on? 2. The effect is independent of the adjustment function. g the air currents? 3. Can you read the refrigerant level yourself? 4. How long does the climate take now at 25 degrees and more until it reaches noticeably? 5. What can I pass on to information? Thank you for information!

I would like to buy an i20 as a second car mainly for the city and medium overland/BAB journeys. The following two engines come into question: i20 blue 1.2 with 84PS IO = 5.8 AO = 4.0 KOMBI = 4.7 KOMBI Spritmonitor = 6.24 CO2 = 109 control = 52€ i20 blue 1.0 T-GDI with 100PS IO = 5.3 AO = 3.6 KOMBI = 4.3 KOMBI Spritmonitor = 6.21 CO2 = 99 control = 28€ According to Spritmonitor.de, the two take nothing at all in consumption. The turbo is interesting because of only half of the tax per year. With an intended service life of at least 10 years, a tax saving of 240€. This is not the world. If you have a NON-Blue 1.2, it will be a little bit more. But it certainly goes down in the total cost. But for this I only have a 3-cylinder with turbo instead of 4-cylinder 1.2 suction cup. The 3-cylinder certainly runs much more unevenly, of that I am convinced. urbo certainly gives him good bangs from low rotational speeds and the torque is certainly quite conducive to progress. But the turbo is a part that can be broken after a few years. The problem does not have the 1.2er already. In addition, the problem with the fine dust with the turbo/direct injections. Who knows what our government and EU can come up with in the next few years – see Blue Environmental Zones etc.. In addition, it is the case that a turbo just at high speed I was able to observe this with my Golf IV 1.8T. Everything that went up from 150km/h he took good petrol. There were some same-volume vacuum cleaners at the same and higher speed less fuel consumption. OK the 1.8T also had 19″ with 225 tyres. The comparison lags somewhat, but basically 84 hp should however in the city always and also on the BAB for swimming with 130/1400 km/h completely enough. eis of approx. 1000 € for the 1.0T-GDI has to be brought in again, taking into account what could be with the Trubo times and especially since the consumption is real identical. The 1.2 is “old”-known and children’s diseases should be solved. What do you think? Greeting Dirk

Hello After I mentioned here http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…disk wiper interval-t4899697.html that my Intro 1.2 unexpectedly still has speed control system, speed limiter and boot lighting in addition to the listed intro equipment, there seem to be different variants. The speed control system seems to be missing sometimes, or is it motor dependent? What do the steering wheel switches look like with the models without speed control system and speed limiter – sin d with these models the buttons also printed? The trunk lighting is according to brochure only available at the style. Must look for the glove compartment, whether there is also a lighting there. Many greetings and a nice Sunday