Category: Hyundai i30, Lantra & Elantra Forum

Hello, my friend drives an i30 PD with the 1.4 T-GDI and has been complaining for a few days about a jerking while speeding up. I quickly ordered an ELM 327 and yesterday read out the error. Seems to be a detonator in the 3rd cylinder. Spark plugs only recently came in again. I then changed the ignition coils across yesterday, but since then no longer driven, but only started the engine. The error could be deleted, but came again and remained Also in the 3rd cylinder, or do I misinterpret the error message here, because it says: Status: Stands out? What would you control next? Change ignition cables? Thanks in advance for helpful tips.

Hello together, after our main vehicle (Jaguar XE) currently has bigger engine problems, we are looking for a “cost-effective” and reliable second car. It is important to us that it is a reliable vehicle in the long term, with few weaknesses known, few repairs occur and if something should be manageable, the repair costs are manageable. The same applies to the maintenance. It should become a fuel efficient petrol, either compact class or Klei n-SUV/Crossover. The Seat Arona has been selected for more details or a Hyundai i30. The budget is 16.500 € – equipment doesn’t matter. Car is mainly moved in the small town/overland and every 5-6 weeks by 300 km on the highway. What experiences do you have about the two vehicles/engines? Thank you for your input!! Patrick

Hi motor friends, I am looking around for a first car and since the golf is so expensive in the insurance I have discovered the Hyundai I30 like from this ad: Just found at #Classifieds. How do you find this?https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/…/2933762295-216-1908?… My question is, do you have experience with the car and how is the engine in general? Is the expensive in the maintenance or is it okay as a first car? Thanks already in advance!

Hello forum, I need help for my 2012 i30 FDH with 1.6 CRDi and 90PS. Yesterday I missed on the way to work performance and later on the highway the engine control light started to flash. The error was P0299 turbocharger underload. After the deletion the error unfortunately came back within 30km. Overall I had to drive almost 200km with the condition. Today I looked at the turbo times, but could not find anything obvious. VTG adjustment is already s The problem shouldn’t be over 50,000km long. But luckily I found out that only 50% of the width of the belt is left… Does anyone have any experience with the error and could the belt be a cause or a consequence? The belt can’t be broken for a long time, a few days ago I saw it completely when I switched the bulb to VR. At just under 240,000km the consideration is already whether I should put a lot into the box, last year the clutch was due. The turbo is not quite cheap and if other parts are affected, then it is probably rather an economic total damage. Although I want to give it extremely reluctantly, since so far really reliable. Do you have idea and suggestions? Thanks and greetings Sascha

Good evening, I drive a Hyundai i30 CW built in 2021 ,159ps, automatic 88000 km. It’s the 90000 inspection and probably also the spark plugs. My dealers want to have over 800 € for this inspection. I find this damn expensive and wanted to ask if someone already had the inspection and what you paid for. Thank you very much Greeting from Duisburg

What air pressure bar you drive at the given tyre size.Please experience and recommendations.Tyres are all-weather tyres: Atlas 205 50 R17 93V Green 2 4 S XL.

Hello guys, Since I am currently looking for a car, I read quite a lot here in the forum. At first I was looking for a BMW e90 bj. from 2011 as diesel, which should not cost more than 1500€ (have usually about 80000km on the speedometer) . Since I have not yet found it, I looked around at other manufacturers. After my best buddy bought an i10 last week and I was positively surprised, I have here once the model The Tucson CRDi 1.7 looked good at first glance. Thanks to a discount for the disabled I would come here with a diesel of the Classic equipment at approx. 20000€. Also as a used car you can not find it much cheaper. Nevertheless, 2000€ 25% more than I wanted to spend. Besides, the Tucson is then perhaps too big. If I imagine hard as a car suitable for everyday use, seems somehow enormous. Then I have seen the i30 (Diesel 110ps) (not yet live) and It is important to me that it should be a diesel and have parking assistance at least in the back. I found some used ones from 2015 that correspond to my wishes and also do not cost much more than 1500€. I then looked here in the forum, how the general opinion about the i30 is and up to now only read positive. Now to my question: Even if I have already read a lot here, I would like to know more about this. Whether they have any diseases that you should know about, what processing is like or what the prices for spare parts are like. Furthermore, the BMW is still in my mind. I know that here is the Hyundai Forum, but I would also like to know your opinion about this car. The BMW would not be younger than BJ 2012 for about 1500€ and will have less than 70000km on the speedometer. 1 year. At the i30 I almost got a new car with almost 5 years warranty at the price. Is BMW more reliable in terms of quality, so the “up price” is worth it? Which of these cars would you choose and why?

Hello, I drive an i30cw CRDI, year 2014 with 110hp. In my second, premature inspection (all made only with Hyundai) and a total running power of only 30,000km, the rear brake discs are very noisy and worn and the brake pads almost completely down. Is this normal with the i30? Before, no I almost never really go into the iron, driving a lot of city highway, looking ahead and brake on my daily highway ride from 110 to 40km/h only with motor brake. the rear brake discs and pads kept? By the way, my car I picked up at the end of December from inspection at Hyundai and only a few days later the brakes at the front began to squeak at a slight tap. Whenever I gently brake it only squeaks loudly at the front. Does not have to be fixed at an inspection too?

Hello i30 fans! Last week at the Hyundai dealer asked me for 4 pieces of winter tires – friendly information: exact prices are not yet available but the last year: 4 pieces on steel rim – balanced and with tire pressure sensors – others can not be used! – cost Euro 790,– without monthly weight!! So it has long been the first time for me to speak. It is still a few weeks to 15.11. but I would like to have some cheaper winter tire 195/65R15 on steel felge (with pressure sensor) for my i30 year 2015. The specialist consultant at the Hyundai dealer told me that you can only use the original tires with pressure sensors, otherwise a fault is issued on board electronics which cannot be deleted or switched off! If someone has experience with this challenge and can give me here a targeted tip, I am very grateful. Lg amotis

Hello together, since 21.06.2017 I’m also on the road with a Hyundai, the Hyundai i30 Intro Edition with Intro Plus package and Smart Key package, 1.4 T-GDI with 140ps. I didn’t want to miss the keyless system anymore. I’m very happy with the vehicle so far. Now I’m looking for winter complete wheels. It doesn’t have to be original rims, in my opinion this is not necessary for the winter. However, I don’t find any fit in the net for this vehicle. I am offered steel rims on one side, but to my knowledge I am not allowed to drive any steel rims. The i30 Intro with 17″ rims was delivered. Maybe someone can help me here? Thank you in advance,