Category: KTM Motorrad Forum

Hello guys, I have now mounted the tuning kit 2 from summer and the box runs fiercely.But what’s even better, the running culture has changed.At little speed no more and less vibrations(3 gear 80 kmh) at higher speeds.I can now turn up the tap in 3 gear at 40 kmh and it accelerates up without a jerk. Fully horny… But what bothers me is the sound of the open air filter cover.Reminds me of my 125 time. But so far only to recommend…. ….

Hey hey. I have a pleul bearing damage on my 620 ́er LC4 (1996) or this one brass ring sitting on the left and right side of the camp, one of them has disassembled. The cylinder looks still good and has only a little run in and has no scratches etc. (with about 9500 km) but the piston is totally on the a…. the very nice Riefen got off and from the bottom it looks like it was worked with a grain and hammer strokes. The oil ran through the simmering into the ignition and to the vent The brass chips are distributed everywhere, from transmission to control chain… Now the question is: “New” (used) engine if I get one or new parts. This is gasket set for engine, new piston, Simmerring and a new bearing. Of course I have to try to wash the chips out well everywhere. Or: I would get an Lc4 660 ́ engine with year 2004 for about 800€, only then is the question if it fits also in the 620s with year 1996 from me??? Would I be happy If someone could help me.

Hello guys I found a KTM 620 built year 94. The engine has been completely revised by a tuning workshop. It does not have AGW and no 2 oil pumps yet or? My question: Is it absolutely not advisable to buy such an old model or can you buy such an old machine? Would my 1st KTM be

Servas, have read nothing here about the reliability and durability of the LC4. I drive my LC 640 model 2003, EZ 1/2004 (grey engine) since more than 45000 KM. About 25000 KM with Akrapovic slip-on and open air box (Gazee-Metell-Netz and original air filter) No engine repairs except the camshaft bearing (precautionarily) at 41000 KM. Otherwise everything is original on the engine. 2 x steering head bearing (both at 20′ and 40′, 1 clutch lever (on the bowden pull-nips) t), 1 x side stand switch (cable off), Countless rear tyres and now the 4th front wheel, With the well-known maintenance work and fluid changes, nothing has been done except the above mentioned work. Runs and runs, still running with the 1st battery… Will the baby have to leave now since I have you in the wheel and it is high time to buy something new. P.S. Had almost forgotten the replacement of the hand brake switch (click switch on the lever) at 34000 K M to mention… Otherwise the moped drives like on the first day, there is nothing going on, there is nothing going on, it still makes animal fun with the goat to file through the landscape. Good grip and good luck in the new year to all here. we

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Hello together, for some time I have been getting stronger and stronger oil leak on the side of the chain sniper, or directly on the chain sniper. Can someone help me how to seal this, or what seals do I need and maybe give tips on how to prevent oil loss? Thank you!

Hey municipality, Karre runs super round has all fuel and air sparking of course also there goes however after 13 seconds of myself I do not do anything she goes out. Here you see a video now the question what you suspect it is ? I have now looked again online. Presumables were tank ventilation but it is also not. For fun I took out the air filter it is also not. I am very strong the opinion it is a temperature problem because it runs from time to time shorter and The thermostat should probably open the second circuit at 70 degrees. So after 10 seconds the cooling water will not have 70 degrees or am I wrong? In another Fred I have already asked the exhaust after 10 seconds so hot that you can only tap without burning yourself and that up to the rear silencer. Thanks already in advance.

Hello, I have always had a problem with my EXC 300 EZ 94 after driving through puddles and hope to vind the cause here. Shortly after driving through a pool of water (also flat which are only 10cm deep), my engine starts to jerk in the upper lathe area. A short time later the box goes out and hardly again. I then have to find a quarter of an hour to run it again. In between, it hissses explosively from the exhaust at the start! I have a problem with my EXC 300 EZ 94. already the cable from the Lima double wrapped up and the Bowden train is sealed at the carburetor, unfortunately without success! Whenever the Mtor gets a load of water from the front wheel gets loose Does anyone have a solution for this????

Type 5- 501 04258 Fzg.Nr.851031822. Search Clutch cover+Wapurad+Kickstarter,Can be used of course!!! Or a complete motor. Mfg.RR

Hello KTM forum, I’ve been driving a 95o` Supermoto for over 2 years. For me the machine is perfect with Akras and translated shorter. I can’t even say anything bad about the bench. I’m used to cycling much less comfort. So that my house blessing doesn’t go wrong I also have to drive for two. My better half loves the box as well. And here my problem arises. My girlfriend has a very sensitive nose. And unfortunately the passenger gets totally with exhaust gases I couldn’t believe it at first, but it’s like that. After every tour, your clothes stink all over the place. Did you have to do this experience? Can you change that somehow? Are there exhaust systems that release the exhaust stream “more compatible with the driver”? The whole thing can’t really be healthy for the passenger. When driving solo, the problem doesn’t arise, but I switched to the big Supermoto to have enough power too. s, the new KTMs have been driving on Tenerife for months. I see them every day. The guys from KTM are here every winter.