Category: KTM Motorrad Forum

Hello people, in advance: Please only have answers from people have the idea. I drive a 300EXC exclusively on the road (please no answers `not listens to the road` and such stuff)! Had already asked questions about gears, if I ask for gear ratio one can assume that I can repair gears – there I do not need children’s stuff answers to the secondary translation. On the topic: Since I drive the EXC only on the road the chassis is too lashing, too soft. I changed the fork oil (original 5`er) in 7.5`er, but it is still too soft. As soon as it goes over about 120 on the road into a curve it is too spongey for me, the same also applies to the shock absorber. (please do not come with spring pretension), I do not know final speed, from 150-160 ́s it is too difficult for me. On the tires it is not, Conti Trail Attack 2 (street tires) have on it. If someone has experience with these long spring paths and the viscosity or can someone give me an E The same applies to the shock absorber – does someone have a recommendation about viscosity? Does nitrogen necessarily have to be in the damper? Does someone have other experience with a 300EXC or something similar on the road? For tips and ideas I am really grateful – not only have to concern the chassis, everything is welcome. Regards -DesFrankerl.

The Jekill&Hyde exhaust system is the healthy one. So I bought it from a dealer by name. The system has a punched ENummer. Everything should be right. She has already received from the previous owner 2 times TÜV in exactly this condition. Here at me 4 times failed because of the system. I did not get a card from the dealer. They told me the tüv can easily see the ENummer. Admissibility. Now such a Drecj, for a year I can not drive it. Does anyone have advice like me without remodeling (have bought it so consciously) to my TÜV come?!?! About quick answer I would be very happy!! Vlg and good season start for all of you! Sabrina

Moin and Happy Easter. Yes I have the problem that I wanted to change oil too quickly and of course the thread m12x1.5 torn off. Yes I also have torque and yes I know I should have used it. Now it’s just too late. Yes, I’ve read a lot and that’s actually nothing new, but it’s the problem that the Lc4 engine does not have an oil tank but sits in the engine block. I have to repair the thread in the built-in state. The thread is the deepest point in the engine and the bike tilts to the side. In the attachment I send you a photo. I ordered a Helicoil m12x1.5 insert to repair it in case the surface should not be dense order another oil drain screw seal frying attachment. Now I think about whether I should better fix it with Helicoil or rather buy a M14x1.5 scramble directly and just m14x1.5 pre-drill and trim? I think I can get all the chips out, when cutting the thread I use fat and of course before I do it. build together, I rinse a few times. I often used Helicoil for alu at work and it has kept great. Unfortunately oil tank is not possible otherwise that would be no problem at all. Yes in the future always use torque thank you in advance and please save stupid comments directly

Hello, I’m new here in the forum and have the following problem my KTM 125 exc built in 2005 stutters at full gas this problem I’ve had before when I built in a platinum spark plug it went perfectly but now 2 weeks later it turns quite high but that only for 3 seconds it starts stuttering. I hope you can help me

Actually I was satisfied with the Super Duke GT, that the dealers lure Rabat on new vehicles with 4000 euros, and thus destroy the used market, only one conclusion allows: Never buy a KTM only for 2-3 years. It always attract new models and technologies and the temptation is great to switch from time to time to the moped, but with these methods it is impossible to do with KTM. So either change KTM forever or only with other brands sometimes. With my BM W K1300s was and is the price stable. How do you see this?

Hello Biker! I know, I haven’t written anything more here for a long time, but I still have the KTM from 2008 (BJ 2000). In the meantime all seals on the carburetor had to be changed because they had drawn false air everywhere… Now after almost 8 years and about 8000 km I will probably not come through the TÜV due to the ever louder volume of the exhaust. The examiner at that time already had mercy before right and said there is no more in the exhaust anyway. looking for the spare parts: 2x O-ring for end pot cap 10x Niro rivet 4,8 1x pot wool 400gr front end pot (65€?????) 1x pot wool 90gr rear endpot (35€?????) Is that so correct? And could anyone explain to me how to stuff this thing best? Thank you for your help Greeting Manuel

Hello, dear KTM driver, my son is driving a 690 SMC-R (without ABS) built in 2013 with an open sports air filter and (illegal) Akrapovic exhaust system. The KTM has a good 70 hp. For some time now, the clutch has been slipping on the machine as it accelerates and the slipping has intensified since then, even with moderate acceleration. The KTM has run just 8,000 km; a clutch should hold at least 20,000 km. Moreover, my son is not one of the brutal driving. On the weekend we disassembled the coupling with the following result: Length of the (four) compression springs: 33 mm, i.e. new condition. Thickness of the friction coverings: 2.7 mm, i.e. almost new condition. All steel lamellas without traces of overheating and without distortion (glass plate test / tipping and with sensor gauge). The oil is a MOTUL SAE 10 W/ 60, as most KTM workshops use it. We have only ordered reinforced coupling springs, although the original ones are still in order, but this is 1.) Now to my question: The clutch of the SMC-R is an “anti-hopping” coupling. It is intended to prevent the braking effect of the motor from having an excessive effect on the rear wheel when switched down, which can lead to a lateral slipping of the wheel, especially in the event of slanting in the curve. The four anti-hopping springs act in the clutch towards “running”, thus pushing in a direction of force which is the direction of force of the clutch pulley. The actual compression springs must therefore overcome the force of the AH springs and still provide enough pressure so that the clutch builds up enough friction value and does not slip. So if one assumes that one does not need this anti-hopping effect, because one is not a brutal supermoto driver, not so vehemently shuts down from high speed before curves and lets the clutch come softer, in other words: more sensitively coupled, then we have to The AH feathers are actually superfluous. In any case, however, the release of these feathers has given rise to additional pressure on them. If any of you have done this before and can share your experiences with me. Lonzoglunz

I have a question. is a wheelie with an lc2 shit for the engine or something else harmful? I drive in the 2nd gear turn it up a three-quarter and then tear on the handlebar.(but everything in the stand). is that somehow better with an lc2? e.g. that I stay up a little longer. for an answer I would be really grateful.

Servus together, bought yesterday from the dealer a 640 LC4 SuMo (black). Is EZ 04 / 2800km for 6000 Euronen incl. Higashi tailpipe. However, I originally wanted an enduro. The dealer made me the suggestion, he can install the Enduro wheels instead, which would basically be enough for me. He now makes the TÜV on it and then I can pick up the Schepper. But now I have read a few things about the difference between SuMo and Enduro 640er’, b I now doubt whether I will then have problems with the suspension tuning or otherwise. Please say something about it!

Servus KTM ́ler! Play right now with the idea of getting me a moped again, as this could probably be my last possibility at the moment…had an Enduro (XT600E) a few years ago, but would get me something “Derberes” this time and so the 450 would be a hot part at the moment. Is there any hints or other useful information on this thing that you should know before? If it works, then I would get the KTM new, would be in it from the price next to the outfit! Look forward to a few useful answers – merce in advance.