Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Hello, I bought me a month ago ne gilera smt 50 and now I finally have 1000 km on it. So time to make it up : )) My goal: that goes so about 80 km/h and that you have a good sound. My problem: I have unfortunately no money for the auspuff metrakit throat carbon gilera/ derbi, which has already been mentioned here .. that would meet all my goals I already start saving and that will last a little longer ; P so I want my moped already now faster and louder ma chen .. clear jetz I thought I’d get the throttle out at the bender.. my question now: do I have to get the throttle out at the bender also buy a new nozzle, if yes I can buy the same as I need for the metrakit? so that I don’t have to buy 2x one? and if I have the throttle outside a new ignition candle? if I just get the throttle out and leave everything as it is how fast it goes / is that harmful to the engine or son s what? Villeicht also have some tips how to make my moped louder in the time without having to light or heat anything?;> PS: please don’t use short cuts^^ thank you already mfg, an enthusiastic smt 50 driver

Hello, I wanted to ask if it is really necessary that you have to pull all valves in the 2nd customer service. I drive a Honda cb125f and the workshop where I bought the moped wants in my opinion too much money for a customer service. I have to make my customer service with a Honda dealer, because otherwise I lose the warranty. So I also asked different dealers and there are quite different prices like 400€ without accessories so tires and ke or another 250€. Where I still find that this is too much or? Now to the question, it is necessary to pull the valves after, or the moped continues without errors even without pulling them. Of course, I would then have to give up my guarantee, but that would run out anyway in September this year. So you’d rather have valves pulled or you can save yourself that. Thank you in advance.

Hello, I bought myself a new Zontes G1 last week. It has now 170 km on it. I have one thing that seems strange to me. If I want to let my wheels roll in thrust mode, so no gas at all and connect to it, I have a short moment where there is no real drift and then there is a bang. This can be imagined so that at this moment there is only a force close between the engine and gearbox or drive. I can turn the throttle lever with a lot of feeling. Is such a behavior normal for a 125er? Of course I Googled a bit and looked at the chain at the same time. I think this is very loose. If I touch it in the middle place, I can almost push it to the swing. I drive to the dealer tomorrow, but would like to know from you what you mean about it before he tells me about the horse tomorrow.

Hello, after a very long two wheel abstinence I bought a used Aprilia Atlantic 125 some time ago. This runs so well. Up to 70 I find the suit for such a thick ship already ok. 70-90 it becomes tougher then. Tacho 100 I can only manage with gradients. So far I have done the following: – new straps – new Vario weights (7.3g , original it is probably 7.4g) there are traces in the careers of the weights but no edges or straps – clutch and converter c The GDF has plenty of tension in any case, I had bought a complete converter/coupling group as a replacement, but this does not fit why. If this is installed the scooter does not start. I have already built 3 times back and forth, but with the replacement unit of 101octane the scooter does not run. But I get the converter slightly more easily apart than with my installed one. – Membrane on the carburettor, also here is nothing noticeable like cracks or similar – Compression measured, 9.5bar (BTW the symmy of my wife has “only 8.5bar” – air filter is also ok – spark plug is new and after longer lap also rehbraun. I can therefore exclude false air, even fogs with brake cleaner did not change the speed Slowly I am at a loss, maybe someone still has a tip for me. Thought it was also due to the driver weight, but the Sym Joyride Evo my wife I drive in the level with speedometer 110, also the passage from 70kmh is clearly better. U nd the sym is only 10kg lighter than the Atlantic and has 2.5hp less.

Evening people I’ve had a question today very cheap n dirtbike shot, here a few dates: 125ccm 8.5 kw 4 clock. Now to my problem, so it’s running but it’s really squaloring out of the exhaust and while driving or taking gas smokes it can always help me much what that can be?

Hello and good evening to the forum, I have been to Motor-Talk several times and had to register again because I was not here for a long time. But since I was always well advised, I hope also with my new project on good tips from the community. At that time it was always about a little bigger “mopeds”. But now I got a real moped, a Generic trigger SM50 which I want to bring again to the road for an acquaintance. The engine was changed times for a CPI Mo I don’t know which CPI. As far as I have read in the Inet an AM6 replica. On the engine stands CPI 51A *xxxxxx* but tells me nothing and I can’t find anything about it. Now to the construction sites I hope for tips or experience values of you. The main problem is that it is difficult to switch at all. The 1st course can’t be put into idle or higher. In the stand, with the engine switched off I can sometimes force the 2nd course. . The engine itself is running well, has stationary gas and I can start in the 1st quite normally. I noticed that the transmission oil is white in the clutch cover and is extremely foaming. According to Inet this should be due to a defective Simmering of the water pump. Can this be the cause already? Since the transmission oil is diluted and therefore the clutch can not work properly? But I fear that would be too easy. Now since you asked. But please don’t come to me with craft shop or the same. mir kennt… About helpful answers from AM6 Schrauber’n I am grateful….

Hey guys. I converted the light to H4 on my Yamaha YBR 125. So I’m not the first to have the alternator no problems with it. It delivers 115 watts at 14.0 volts at 5,000 rpm (according to workshop manual). Of this 60 watts (previously 35 watts) go to the H4 light and about 15 watts to rear, standlight and speedometer lighting, i.e. about 75 watts. Should therefore not be a problem. Nevertheless, the light seems to suck out the battery. If I use the E-starter (and a round of time) I notice the longer and more often I drive, turn it off and press the E-starter, the less “will it”. Here in short form what has already been tested: -LiMa was measured, resistance & output voltage (30-180 volts) fit -Controller could not be measured (is located directly under the tank); but should fit, because the battery with the old 35 watts of light is constant 14,0-14.2 volts -lead acid battery was replaced for a new lead-gel battery -Power verb smoke of the new light has been measured, with 4.91 A (+-3%) is relatively accurate at 60 watts – on the battery with switched on H4 light are only 12,9-13,2V depending on the speed – creep currents I exclude, because it does not cause the problems overnight, but only after it was driven I am with my Latin at the end. Next the tail light is replaced with an LED tail light, it saves only 5 watts while driving, but 21 watts when braking are already something. MfG Iumak

Hello, at school I paid little attention, therefore this question. At the front I have a 15 sprocket on my moped, I exchange this for a 16s, then it gets faster or slower ? Presumably slower, because direction big sprocket is 1:1 greetings

Hello, I’m just finished. I’m quite normal with the motorcycle (Yamaha YZF r125 BJ: 2011) after school on the expressway and was just at 120 kmh, when it suddenly (through the engine brake?) goes down to 100 or 90 kmh. I really thought now I stopped standing in the middle of the road, but the braking stopped and I could even give gas again. Since right there was also my exit I rolled up to the traffic light. When I came to the stand my motorcycle went au I didn’t get it any more. Then the first idea: I was already 20 km on reserve, there is only not enough petrol available. So for 5€ a little fueled, but it still didn’t start. Up to the gas station it was already 200 meters which I had pushed so I thought I could also get the 1500 meters to the next workshop. However, this was unfortunately only a dealer who could not help me. He came out with me and pushed the bike (in the first gear?) very fast, at least better than when I’m just standing on the starter. By the way, the battery was almost empty and it made less and less noise when I tried to turn it on again. I made myself on the way to another workshop. What are 6 KM with a half-fuelled motorcycle I also tried on the way with the, going into the first gear quickly race and the clutch let go only that is very After 1 1/2 hours pushing with motorcycle clothes in the sun at 20 degrees I arrived there. At the old workshop I was still really good at it, because he meant only spark plug or something and said that costs about 6€, so a new one. Without the 60€ hourly wage cost for the mechanic The mechanic there said it could also be the engine I was so hoping that there is no suspicion about it. He meant with too little petrol it would jerk and I hope there’s nothing on the engine. What do you think? Thank you very much. I don’t want to slow down so much, or the battery can’t be empty or anything like that, so it’s not up to her either. So he changes the spark plug and hopes it’s just her, because it’s the cheapest. But why could I give gas after the strong brake I hope you have a few good words for me. I hope there’s nothing on the engine.

Hello all, I have to change my Honda CB125R to season registration marks. I am lucky to have a big registration plate. This is not possible as far as I know since 2020. Can I now change my moped to season registration marks and still keep a big registration plate, because it is not theoretically new admitted, but only changed? Thank you for your answers LG Lukas