Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Moin people! I am still quite new here in the forum and hope for your help. I am almost 19, passed my A2 “with flying colors” about 9 weeks ago and now look for a suitable motorcycle. I’ve already researched the Internet for a few hours and landed at the Suzuki XF 650 Freewind (large enough for 194cm, robust, allrounder….) BUT: for well-known reasons (optics, maneuverability, seat height, ….) I really like Supermotos (who at my age doesn’t?). R (400 / 600 / 650….) would be ideal, but I shouldn’t drive that wg of the power weight at all and they are (in the case of the Suzi) quite expensive… A buddy of mine now drives a Yamaha WR 125. There I sat on it and I fucking liked it Also purchase price and maintenance I understandably like very much. I’m also not the type that always overtakes everything that comes to his face and I don’t like highway at all on the Töff anyway, but for bra However, I have concerns that even in the ordinary urban/urban traffic a 125er with 15-25 hp under 120kg driver weight will quickly reach its limits and I will become a traffic obstacle….. What do the experts say about this? 125er with heavy driver on rural roads still adequately moveable? And if I want to have the girlfriend on it from time to time…… I hope you can tell me interesting things about it.

Hello, I’ve finished my MT5 so far “only” the carburettor has to adjust correctly. So I wanted to ask if there are differences in the main nozzles or if every nozzle fits in every carburettor. Unfortunately I have no plan of which brand the carburettor is… And for other tips on how to adjust, I’m also grateful

Hello have a question, and a buddy told me that he fills normal 2-stroke oil into the gearbox in his Simson. And with his Hercules Moped always emptied unmixed 2-stroke oil into the gearbox. He says he has no problems with the clutch or any other. Now my question is whether it is good or if you prefer to fill in SAE80???? MFG Michael

Hi, I am 14 years old and looking for a cross at mobile de I found a suzuki rm 125. My question is whether the machine is good or not and what you have to pay attention to when buying here the link: http://suchen.mobile.de/…/207768497.html?… Would I be happy about an answer Many greetings

Hi! I’m new here and I already have a question: So this is what I took over from my brother the honda cbr 125r, but now there are problems. The threshing meter spins when it’s on and you turn it up. And the lights flicker. Besides, it goes out immediately when you push the chuke back in again (don’t get it at all) So I was at the mechanic the day before yesterday and he told me about voltage regulators and other things and that the whole should cost around 400 euros. help me find a cheaper and easier solution? Thanks already in advance! MfG Wolfskehler

Teflon is elastic and can be reused. It would be better than cardboard seals, which are only suitable for partly one-time use because they are often broken. Teflon can withstand 200°C permanently and is absolutely stable chemically. It expands under heat, which could be both good and bad. I have a MZ 125 SM. The seals are to the TZ 125 SM. because a suitable Teflon “foil” is cheaper. Teflon can also be worked quite well according to my experience. Where I don’t see any sense is head gasket and crusher gasket, because at high temperature the Teflon permanently deforms under the screw-on pressure and thus would lose some thickness when cooling. But for example clutch lid is not even 100°C warm – wouldn’t that be good? Does something speak against Teflon as a seal to avoid If not, why?

My side paneling is discreetly crooked and crooked. One side grinds at the seat and there is still room on the other side. The side paneling consists of three parts: – 2x next to the tank – 1x Backward direction passenger handle Furthermore, there is also the problem that the parts do not want to close properly. I was wondering if the two parts could not simply be glued together with GRP (epoxy resin) because I would like to paint again anyway due to scratches. I only heard, that some plastics are not stickable with GRP. Hm, what about a primer? There is, for example, spray primer for painting plastic parts (I have a bottle). But before I sacrifice fiberglass, spray primer, epoxy resin and possibly also the side paneling for nothing and again nothing, I wanted to ask if this works at all. I don’t understand why the paneling doesn’t fit anyway. I thought that I could make one out of the three parts. So the ugly transition disappears. From assembly and disassembly, this is problematic, so it can still be easily screwed around on the motorcycle. Is there maybe, if this doesn’t work, other methods, how to glue the parts? Also important to me is on the right side, where there is just too much game, some material from Then everything is sanded and primed and painted. What do you say to the plan?

Hello, I wanted to ask, since I stand before buying a 125er, how big are the differences in the price of inspections, wear parts etc.. I have to drive the motorcycle in two Jaharen about 10000-12000km, and to buy new. To what extent is the CBR125R really cheaper than ‘YZF-R125,if one calculates maintenance, inspections and resale value? So at the moment the YZF costs about 700€ more than the CBR, but as far as I have read the service intervals with the Honda with 4000km be significantly shorter than the 6000 at the Yamaha. I found nothing so far about the RC125 of KTM. What do you pay about per oil change, and what during the inspection? After I just read the text I typed, and that sounded rather confusing, here again a clearly formulated question: What will I get after two years (12tkm) for the models RC125,YZF-R125 and CBR125R, and what will I get about for maintenance, inspections and wear parts in the time I realize that no one will be able to give me an exact value, but maybe I can give you a clue. Either way or so thank you! Greetings, Chris

Evening, would have a question because I have no idea about scooters at all. Large car engines can withstand about 200-500tkm depending on the maintenance. How much km does such a 50cm3 engine last? Whether 2- or 4-stroke is really not important, but I prefer 4-strokes. Oh, one more question. What do you need on 100km? Greeting Ercan

Hello guys, we want to take part again this year with our DT 50 in a 4h moped race. The rules say unfortunately from that we have to drive with 50 ccm. Has from you good tips like we the Zyl. best beabeiten can increase control times, channels etc. and which carburetor and exhaust combination best fits to it. We have a Gianelli and an empty org. DT50M exhaust. As a throttle we have a 19er Dellorto and a 20er Mikuni. Zyl. we have a n older and a newer Dt Zyl. It would be great of you to get some tips on the matter. I’ve already looked through a few topics in the forum but unfortunately they are partly a bit older and the links don’t work meh