Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Hello, I removed my mobylette freewheel from the pedal chain and unfortunately the thread on the rim came along with it. Does anyone know if you can weld something like this or somehow put it together again? LG Nils

Hello, I bought a used motorcycle Piaggio Gilera DNA 125 BJ.2001. Since I don’t know this model before I have a few questions about it. During the test drive I found that the digital speedometer does not work (only the speed). Could that be a cable off. But how do I get the cover to the speedometer off? Is there possibly a workshop book for this model? Who can help me with it? Thank you Frank N.

Moin, now again in the right forum. Are there actually people on their little Scrambler? I bought the Fantic in December and now have a problem-free 300km on it. Got me extra one with Euro 4 and the carburetor. Is certainly a matter of taste, but I found the carburetor somehow appealing. [Instruction for illegal tuning away to

Hello, I’m writing here on this platform because I just don’t know what to do. I drive a Fantic xmf 125 and was very satisfied with the last 5,000 kilometers and had no problems at all. Since about 3 weeks she only has problems. She doesn’t really take gas, sometimes it works without problems, then sometimes she just goes out in the stand or standing at the ampel. She runs round and sometimes she goes out when giving gas. Sometimes she takes gas and sometimes doesn’t. have already exchanged the lamba probe, the causer and the air filter. Does anyone have idea what else I can do or need to check? Thanks to all the answers I get.

Servus! My RD 50 (engine identical to DT 50) doesn’t work properly. It dies every few meters. After a few times it goes again. But the engine doesn’t get very hot. Although the spark plug is damp, it doesn’t smell like gasoline. Can it not get fuel (tank is full) and only oil???? I opened the carburettor once. There’s a adjusting screw like the mixture screw on the outside between the two floats. It was completely turned. Is that right??? -D ANKE- schonsmal im Voraus! Flohlaus

Moin! It was asked for pictures of “our” mofa race. Because they are some pictures, I open a new thread for it. The race was four hours long, was driven in teams of three riders. It MUST be a mofa (so with cranks and pedals), but was allowed to start outside. Engine was allowed to go up to 70Kubik, carburetor, exhaust etc. was unregulated (one team drove completely without end pot, another had tried to solder a resonance damper itself *g*). work, tires, brakes were all free. By the way, protective clothing, i.e. protectors, “schild toad”, gloves, helmet was also required. Enough tasseled, let’s go, have fun 🙂 Markus.

Hello, I’ve got a test with my DT 50R BJ.1996 16.5 tkm. I can’t get up a mountain with it. Then the car drives just 20 km/h(2rd gear). Ok, I thought I’d get a new head gasket. Just unscrewed the cylinder head, cylinder is still ok, piston has no traceable bars, seal was completely in the *****. I just got a new one, but it didn’t need anything at all. No difference. The ride on the straight also 45. That can’t be, can it? What can i do? The colour of the spark plug and the coating on the piston were black and dry (light traces of oil). Carburettor is clean. I’m really desperate. Can it be that the outlet is too. My little finger just went through. Or is the silencer too? What do you think?

Hi youngs (un mädls) I would like to have a problem… I play with the idea to sell my good old bock and to buy for it (…). and why??? WILL ME THE (“%!”§!//!” ALL CONFIDENTS!!!!! How can I make my red-spott-gurke faster??? under fast I understand so about 80 – 90, but a pull off like pig. I have snibbled up to the age of 12, the tube in the exhaust (actually weak, still GianelliSports exhaust, but neme thrunn because the green limps me This is why I’m so cool! BUT JEZ ISSES MIR S…..-EGAL!!!!!! Rougher is set!!!!! HURRA!!!!!!!! (note:Rauer is, neee Was the sharpest bull, who was so sharp on moppeds, who has heard whether you have another pinion druff!!!!)!) each straight she runs so about 60 +/-5 (rather -) knows net exactly, mei tachowelle is rusted through she is year 97 I’m open to all suggestions!!!! THX in advance!!!!!!!

Merry Christmas first!!!! If I have the 63ccm it is better if I put in a 80s instead of the serial 70s nozzle??? Should I also give the Mop more oil by adjusting screw?? Would it be better to change the translation have momenta 10/48 mh.. should I still have 12/48 or 13/48 the latter.

That’s what I found in a forum, and I don’t come from driving in my keyboard cylinder It may sound incredible: my cylinders have entered in 45 minutes. No one thinks that now because I never read anything like that, but: who is interested in a little racing, knows that the two-strokers are driven in the warm-up so that the material is as new and good as possible. Of course, the first start after assembly requires most attention. a mixture of 1:20 to 1 0. Always choose the main nozzle to grease, you can still go down. also important: when mounting the cylinder first remove the piston rings from the piston and check whether the piston falls without resistance through the cylinder, if not with Edding the piston, push through and control at the bare places where it clamps. Then with the finest lubricating gel (800er or finer) work here gently until it works. Next: The moto r first run and make sure that he needs extremely gas to stay on the run (it clamps what) or if everything is free. In the second case, first make the rough carburettor settings without heavy full-gas games. In the first case, control all the mechanics again. If carburettor setting so far as possible is driven. .driving when it always goes with full-gas, but without turning out. . so “swimming” everything in the cylinder and crankcase everything in the oil. Then first after a W control the spark plug and the heat of the cylinder. Depending on the spark plug, it must be steamed differently. If the cylinder is too hot.. let it cool down again. If the cylinder and the candle go OK—>. Every 10 min. the speed which you turn out can be increased more and more until after about half an hour the engine is turned out again and again. Now the time of the full turn out is increased and therefore the candle and the cylinder must be controlled again. This is actually the background, that if you enter the engine only at low speeds and the later expected speeds are not reached, there is always the risk of getting a sticky one, because the material takes a different form at different temperatures. So it is basically to be driven in under the later conditions. To the doubters: I do not know what to do. e that for four years now and my engines are after an hour with 14000 rpm. fully gas-resistant and: I have never had a clamp.