Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Servus people, I got a Prima 2S with foot shift, which was now dry in a garage for about 15-20 years. My goal is now to get them to run again! The condition is according to the parking place stainless (up to the handlebar) and well preserved. What should I keep in mind now? 1. My intention is to let off the old fuel only once (petrol tap was fortunately too, however, the fuel hose is brittle) and to change the gear oil (very likely). 2. The carburettor should be removed and cleaned, since the old fuel may have been properly resinated over the many years (??). 3. In which position is the foot shift on neutral? In the standing state it can hardly be moved and the clutch lever feels more like a brake, as the rear wheel blocks. You can gladly answer me the clarity of love with 1. 2. and 3. to my questions. Thank you in advance!

Hello, I once had a 1979 Yamaha TY 50 in special version. It was then imported grey by a dealer in Hamburg (from Holland?). The most important features were: – 5 instead of 4 gears (1st gear down!!) – horn as well as glare and driving light, on which 50-s then a novelty and the switches in the original grip – papers for a mockick (Tempo 40), but ran from delivery already measured 72 and no one could prove technical changes… – front 18 instead of 19 u nd rear 16 instead of 17 inch wheels – 16-er instead of 14-er carburetor and open tailpiece on the exhaust Are there still copies of it? Have fun!!

Hello I had an Opel astra bj 96 were so with the tüv and defects engine drain oil 2 axle different spring types and fog lamp without function… ok we didn’t want to put any money in for the year of construction have it advertised with tüv expert reports and pictures …etc for 200 plus 50 Euro summer tyres on rims. . Well ebay put in written bastler vehicle no guarantee no warranty. Someone came to have looked at it took it with for 250 with rims … contract a ufsatz bastlerfahrzeug bought as seen with address and signature …now the problem he has gone and 600 m he has stopped ..why ever. ..I am now obliged to give money back and take car back

I’m just thinking if I should get a 125-er chopper for cruising. With my driver’s license from 1977 that’s possible. What’s surprising now is that most of the newer machines have only 12 or 11 hp instead of the allowed 15 hp. Why do you give up 20 percent of the power on the part of the manufacturer? And with the weight of the machines (sometimes over 3 talents) + driver (2 talents) it looks like a lot like a torture for the engine. – so please don’t be upset if my question for experienced bikers may be completely wrong!

Hello together, in a few months I will be 16 and can therefore drive as far as I know a 125er throttled, unfortunately I have no experience/explanation with motorcycles and do not know which is suitable KTM I generally like very well the motorcycle would be for use on the country road and occasionally to the terrain. The motorcycle should cost under 3000EUR. I thank in advance for every answer. MFG

Hello I will do the practical exam for class a1 in the next week and would like to drive a honda cbr 125 or a yamaha later. now my question is: what does it cost to register the motorcycle one or half a year? I have heard that the insurance for a 125 machine should be very expensive if it is throttled to 80 kmh. I will now drive a simson s50 b2 but in summer I want to buy a 125 machine. but if all this is so expensive I can yes I hope someone can continue to help. mfg. leonhard

Hello community I’ve been asking Ne who’s been busy for a long time. I’ve heard that a 125cc machine is better suited for short distances (15 to 20km) (because of consumption etc) like a large machine xxx -cc. ? How about it now that you’re not so the scooter type , and now just as bsp , not your big machine (if you have one ) or your car doesn’t want to use because you find motorcycle riding better . Or a student or azubi who just has the a2 My question is now if it would be worth buying any 125 machine (zb yamaha wr 125 x) for this track or yet a larger machine. A 50 scooter is rather bad since the track is mostly about land. (I know what I’m talking about, because across country with a 50 scooter is not a sugar slug). I would like to know your opinion on this topic, and would like to wuss And I apologize in advance to those who consider this question pointless. And a thank you to those who answer me mfg tooyotal

Hello people, short the most important; -have the A1-50 bill, -live in Switzerland, -be 16 and 5 months, -be skilled, and work very, very much, -I love speed, but only who I control, -have access to various chemicals and materials, -my parents make the worst pressure to get me a rideable kit. So, I don’t know yet which motorcycle I should get, because it should be robust, little drinking, and great driving, cheap in the occasionk to be on and cheap in maintenance and have the possibility to operate tuning without absolutely impermissible modifications of the existing components. I finally get safely ned frame through the MFK which I cut. I don’t know which motorcycle corresponds to that. But I find the Supermoto and Enduros very attractive, because I will often drive steep slopes, dirt roads and forest paths, but also main road (Tempolimit 80km/h). -WAES, cold Lsdeluft compressor, a lot of charge air racing, because of the multiload LED lights instead of power eaters Halogen lamps -water cooling replaced by an approved (best of the larger 125 or 250 model) to keep the engine cool. -Protection rods around the tank and engine racing manifold, here must probably be on a low cost. -Adapted spray protection (run often field paths + rain = shit… -(if necessary) Better brakes -tuning CDI – if legally possible, otherwise overwrite the original ones. Tuning which I want to carry out afterwards, and is 100% illegal. -Nitromethane, therefore the better cooling and the standard low consumption, because with NM it rises to up to 200%. On control “Ouhh, then that was probably the wrong canister, I probably de n caught for the 1:6 racing gasoline…” -Removing the catalyst, having it lasered cleanly by the buddy (industrial welding – aircraft production), leaving content out and again to lasers looks like off-the-shelf. Has he also done at the time with his motorbike, various times got in control, all always baffled and amazed, but never noticed anything. -Piping cutters, I hope I can get out with the CNC even more extensive 5ccm. Now my question, you think, that you can so out of a used n “cheap” 50ccm motorcycle gets a brisk kit that also attracts well, can overtake and sprint, but also has a good top speed (at least 80). What kind of motorcycle would you use? Gruss D.R. Oh, Nitromethane I get for free. No a little sick question, but you can also take a SK4+ protective vest instead of a back armor – my stepbrother creates in private security

Huhu in my search for ner 125er I happened to come across the Kreidler Supermoto 125. Looks really great, equipment is also fine (USD fork, wave brake disc, …). Motor is from the Suzuki VanVan 125, price is ~2000€. What do you think of the bike? How is it throbbed? Does someone already have it here? If yes, please post some experiences here Here are some more pictures:http://www.directupload.net/file/d/1024/gW7nghmn_jpg.htmhttp://www.directupload.net/file/d/1024 /oENUYXUW_jpg.htmhttp://www.directupload.net/file/d/1024/jxc4ktxb_jpg.htm here the link to the manufacturer: http://kreidler.net/?content=details&category=10&detail=10 MfG

In my mopped I have to adjust the valves (kipp lever), to do this I removed the control chain cover to measure the seal. Unfortunately, when screwing in, the left screw has broken, although (!?) I have set a torque wrench to 10 Nm (as in the workshop manual). Instead of the screw being stuck in it at some point, it rotated further and further until it was torn off at some point. The torque wrench has been locked during the whole procedure. I clicked, it also felt like clearly under 10 Nm. Now my questions: 1.) What can be the reason that the screw has broken off? What was wrong with my approach? How can I avoid such a thing in the future? 2.) How can I get the beast out again? A small part (see pictures) is still above, estimated 1-2mm. For a pincher probably too little, besides, I fear that I will break the rest of it and it is over. Therefore, my consideration, one of the bolts was In the meantime, a two-component adhesive such as Uhu Endfest would be possible. Another possibility seems to be to mill a slot into the screw with the Dremel. The classic left-hand turnout is too difficult for me in this situation. Greetings Iumak