Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Good evening people, last time on my Rs4 125 measured my valve shims and then installed everything again. Measured since the Shims have to be changed soon. After the measurement everything again installed, stuer time set, chain tensioner installed…. After the whole installation I noticed that the control chain is very tight. So again chain tensioner slightly out and back in. Nevertheless firmly… then still valve cover on it and everything installed and started briefly. ur the question has now settled with the control chain or do you have to worry about it? Greetings

Hello, just set up the MZ ES 150 from my girlfriend again. I slowly despair about the mixture. I will describe the symptoms here exactly…and need qualified hints. Kern oneliners like “FALSCHLUFT!!!111” do not bring me any further… And indeed, it was originally totally distorted and ran only on Choke and with push until it did not run at all. Batteries killed her. I want to get her back on the road and in the course of the a lot of things have already been done, even at the electrics – I don’t get any closer now, since the ignition seems OK. Ignition spark is there and it is also running… only extremely wrong. Mechanical controller was replaced by an electronic one so that it does not always discharge the batteries deeply. (It also works). To the mixture: So I first removed the carburettor, completely cleaned, checked all nozzles and renewed. Again screwed on, and see: It ran at the first kick. Gi But after a few seconds the carburettor was not set yet. So far, so good. At that time we recorded this, here is the video:https://photos.app.goo.gl/qtGGvkr2RCHB8Uzs7 A few weeks after the attempt the box stood, because we have no time to screw. And then the horror started. We only got it when we turned the spark plug out and put a few ml of fuel directly into the ignition chamber. It remained on, but continued to pull out the carburettor. The adjustment screws on the carburettor did not have any effect. Nor did the needle position. I checked the carburettor again, set the float and let two car masters look over it, both of which say the carburettor looks great. Then I found that the box runs when I take off the air filter and take the air almost completely with my hand or the like. If I allow a minimum of more air, the engine pulls up immediately. To make it a little lighter I have made an attachment to do it and not to have to regulate the speed with a finger movement. Thus the box starts super. the 24 diameter intake flange I have with it throttled on pin head size. (see picture)https://photos.app.goo.gl/8WFcG3DqjzEx183F7 So the following picture: Speed accelerates continuously to the very top. Still no noticeable adjustment possibility by speed/mixing screw/part load needle. When I give gas, the speed r If I don’t stop in time, I stop the air completely, it goes out. I made a video for this, see here: I first had false air in the suspicion. Cylinder foot seal and insulating flange renewed. False air test results: No false air on cylinder foot, head, manifold, intake flange. A nice guy on Facebook thinks that the shaft seal could have given up the mind and thus she could have false air from the drive But then I would ask myself: Why does it go out when I completely “turn off” the air on the carburetor? You would have to get enough wrong air or not? So I have the feeling that it may not be the wrong air, but I am at the end with my Latin. My feeling is, maybe try a whole new carburetor to definitely exclude it… the carburetor was made a lot, a new partial load needle (the RIGHT one, the previous one was a lot small) he) as well as controlling the spraying… My thought is, if she doesn’t get too much air, then maybe too little fuel? On the other hand, it speaks again that she still raises the speed so high…https://photos.app.goo.gl/vnYXAtgBkGtxSYdc6

Hello, I have a few problems with my MBX and hope for tips because I am finished with my Latin. And I bought myself for the winter over a Honda MBX 50, has a 70 he set on it, but that does not matter now. The problem is that I ran out of it 4 weeks ago. But she let herself click again. A few days later the same game was now kicking but no solution but I had to push it several times to run again. In addition, I have to i always keep it on the gas, since it did not hold any stationary gas. However, I wanted to drive again for a few days and it went out with a misignition on full drive and since that can be neither kicking nor pushing. Carburettors and membranes are cleaned and spark plug gets moist. The ignition spark is there, however not really strong. Already changed (so new) or checked (measured) is: spark plug Ignition coil (with cable and plug) impulse generator (at the base plate) te) Ignition unit (on the base plate) All cables tested for passage, to exclude cable breakage If I connect the ignition coil (old and new; according to measured values both functional) externally to a battery in order to get an ignition spark without ignition plug, it falls out very small up to almost no spark. Does the CDI serve as amplifier for the ignition coil? Currently I am really in despair and have slowly demanded that the thing to throw away. Hope on helpful tips, many da I don’t think so.

Hi, I’m new here, from Thuringia and drive an Aprilia SX 125, BJ 2020 (so the Euro-5 model). I would like to build an underfloor lighting (yes, I’m aware that this is illegal and leads to the extinction of the BE, but this should be incidental here!) and have a few questions about it. 1. How much power does the alternator supply / with how much power is the battery charged? I’m worried that then I can’t start the motorcycle without the battery. Charging by charger, because the LED’s in driving mode could discharge the battery. 2. How much voltage must be at least on the battery to use an e-starter? Unfortunately, the SX no longer has a kickstarter. MfG Johan

Hello, I am looking for a 125 motorcycle for me and my girlfriend for small trips on weekends. Which would you recommend which is also suitable for comfortable Sozius operation. Especially it is very important to me that I also get spare parts relatively cheap and also in the 10 years still. What is your recommendation? Thank you in advance.

HAMMER! I work next to the school of 17-20 o’clock mo-do at a vw/audi car house or at a dea (=shell) fuel station. today I put super+ up to 126,9c (super: 122,9 , normal 120,9c). but now the hammer: DIESEL ON 106,9c!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. that’s soooo weird. we have an old price list (about 3 months old) hang in there, where super+ was on 124,9c and diesel on 91,9c, in German: Diesel has risen in the last quarter year by about 15c (!!!!!!!) but benzin “only” by about 2c. simply a pigery, as the diesel drivers are pulled off. slowly you have to drive already really a lot of km to get the diesel tax again. small tip: on Monday evening, shell/aral sets the prices so high by 4c.

Servus, my HONDA NSR blue white red bj.2001 bit 26tk I want to sell it now! she’s been standing at my home for over a year and I’ve always put it on! was always more on the car and now I want to keep it on! have a 2 brand-new cover a 2 brand-new side mirror and new rim for front, the buyer would notice everything…(I bought once, because I had a small scratcher on the cover, was then always too bad to build it up and then the 2 years were over and I had a car!) the moped is super in order, the chain set possibly 500km down and the only thing broken is the seat bench, since I have stayed hanging with the mottor wheel shoes, there is a small crack in it… is not bad but best. worthless! and the reason is kaput, that is really shit, but I will possibly fix it myself!

Hi people want to sit in the saddle again after a 2-year break. But I can’t decide with which machine I want to come back on the asphalt. What do you think: Aprilia RS125 or Sachs XTC Each model 1999/2000/2001. At the time I was already before this release, I pressed myself with another machine before the decision at that time but this time it should be one of the two. Would be nice if you told me which reasons are decisive for your favorite. Thank you already in advance…

Hello people, I will get my driver’s license in 3 months and wanted to ask what to buy. Aprilia replica rs or mito. So I don’t have much idea of machines. Aprilia rs is available in many models at least from the look. I don’t like this one with the round back at all, so don’t ask. So which would you recommend me. I have found one in the description stands RS 125 Replica construction year 02/98 price 1350 VHB. How is the machine really a replica or the older version extrema Thanks

Hi, we built a 70 cylinder on a Honda Mb5, because the 50ccm was not enough. So far we have only made the engine run 2 times short. Since it was running too fat at first, we moved the main nozzle needle from the lowest notch to the middle, but that did not bring any improvement. Ignition sparks is there, also otherwise everything is in order. How do you have to adjust the carburetor, so that the engine runs reliably? It is about the originals. The purpose of the conversion should not be to be able to saw all the others now or to get the maximum speed and acceleration out of it, but rather to be able to keep up with it, because before that there was no more than 45 km/h in it and uphill the first gear was called. Can someone help us further? mfg Michael