Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Hi, so first of all I think I think I’m hot Marco am 16, I’m about to do the A1 and now I’m wondering which 125s I’m going to get So my favorites are the Yahama Wr125 R and the Mz SX (more the MZ because it’s cheaper ) now I wanted to ask myself a few questions, get opinions and suggestions .. The device must be suitable for terrain ( so that you can not only drive gravel roads but also simple cross tracks, you just get off road on Fel d can shorten the path and do not have to stick to the forest paths but can also get into the wood ) but also times 50km – 150km on the road packing with at least 80 km/h ( because I drive quite often further routes .. ), must be registered as a 2-seater ( if I have to take whom with me ), and it also sometimes survive if I flung in the suff in the side ditch these criteria would meet the MZ all and would also be sprittsparsam – the problem the SuMo Var iante ( MZ SM ) apparently has no terrain suitability and the Enduro ( MZ SX ) seems to slip away very easily on the wet road, which is of course very good if a white is on the back (if I would only take buddies with me of the no problem, the day before yesterday only three of us skinned in the mud because the one thought he can drive phone and smoke at the same time although two people are on the back ^^ ) well, do you have experiences with the MZ? or do you still have g Is it clear (you can’t just insert cork into the pistons ^^ ) but is it cost-effective (and Tüv allowed ) to bring the WR250R electronically to 125 and 15 HP ? A good buddy of mine ( 14 ) has a 50er scooter with a remote control which throttles the to 25 and of course always with it and leaves most of the time open and if bulls would come the just press the button .. thanks for the reply MfG Marco

Moin, I’m in possession of an MZ SM 125 Gangsta BJ. 08. She’s been standing in the garage for about 1 1/2 months now because she had a plate. Battery and everything was connected. I made the plates yesterday and as expected the battery was empty, so I pushed on the box and after a few attempts I drove a piece to charge the battery. Today she then also started quite normal but funnyly the turn signals and the lamp on the speedometer do not work me hr. I’m sure they still worked on my battery charging tour yesterday. What could that be? Light works perfectly normal.

Hello expert moppetschrauber, we want to drive an “open” 50s because of the existing 4s-FS. Of course it would be easiest to buy a 4s. Unfortunately, these have become outrageously expensive. There our consideration is to rebuild an 80s (or even 125s) to a 50s which come then reasonably out of the hooves. Above all also because there is still a manageable offer here. We have not become so clever which models offer themselves, and gera For this reason, we are value-free in terms of manufacturer and type. As an alternative, maybe a 50’s mokick would be to “open”, but the parts are now also expensive, or those of which there was an open one, there are apparently few models suitable for it. At our TÜV I was, but they are stubborn in their statements and above all they want to know clearly a model. Do you have advice (e.g. which models are suitable for this and what to do there)- besides to make the A-FS? n Thanks to wool

Hello, got a Honda Pxr without papers.Was today at the Honda dealer and he said a second letter costing at Honda 160€.That’s definitely too much for me if I think that it doesn’t even cost 50€ at Kreidler.Did the Honda dealer also ask what happens if I drive without it.He didn’t know that exactly but he said the papers were just a proof that the mofa belongs to me.Wanted now questions if I can drive even with a declaration of safety and without P I’m just looking at the safety statement and then I send the papers and I don’t see how to give them 160€.I also wanted to ask what happens if I only have the explanation in one control? Mfg Flo

Moin,moin I now have the 2 piston-eater in a short time, a buddy had a 170er lying already in place (looked still very good from just 700km) which we then installed, pistons nicely lubricated with oil and everything well assembled now comes the big one but: we have old head + foot seals installed because he meant they are still good and he is KFzler therefore I believed him so.. well then after not even 30 km the 170er was gone, well half as bad ori wied he on it and the ori looks the same now but kept it longer.I had problems all the time however because she burned cooling water with because of the seals, however, it never became too hot because I always filled up… Yes I know unwise but everyone makes mistakes sometimes, such a once…. the thing is that it was not a real eater with both, only pistons and heads have got what. Now my question can be this through the water problem? And once a whole and ere Question: I need a new kit now, but only find some tuning kits or go with new pistons (the what?,to do that I still need a new head)PS: I never build old seals again(the pistons are slightly scratched on top and on the head are chipped)Uploading pictures works like not Mfgj

Hello guys, I’m going to make my A1 driver’s license in March and would like to buy a machine afterwards, I thought of a Kymco Quannon 125 because this is relatively cheap and I don’t have so much money available as a student.My first question is this machine suitable for a beginner and is it enough? Besides, how expensive would the insurance be with this Macshine she wanted to run over my father who has only 30% with the insurance he is with the Volkswagen Insurance ung and has insured his seat there, is the insurance at all affordable for me as a student or not ? Thanks in advance

Öhhm, I have a problem or not, I have a nigelnagelnew Derbi Senda R EXTreme 05. Driver’s license so I get it in early October. So the Derbi runs perfectly, the dealer said I didn’t have to drive it, because it only goes 50 km/h anyway, I think you have to drive it in. My 2Taktöl is still 3/4 full, on a foggy day I wanted to test it again, just because of the sound, I throw the cart, the Tuckert still a bit, and I think: Well, it’s not that bad, petrol is just a lesson, I still have a canister, but I don’t have the manual from the dealer yet, so I don’t know exactly what’s coming in now. I looked into the tank, can see the tank floor 3 days later on a Sunday, it starts perfectly, it starts very well – now I’m worried that because of the N, I can see the tank floor 3 days later on a Sunday, it starts perfectly, it starts very well – ebels on that day spun the electronics around – except for the many smoke that leaves the end pot didn’t look good. So I guess that the missing petrol creates a false oil-split mixture, and therefore too much 2Taktöl is burned. I don’t know much about engines. So question: Am I right and I still have to drive it in ??? – Otherwise nice thing!!! – and if something breaks, I have guarantee.

Hello! I am going to move from London to Germany this summer and plan to issue a motorcycle driver’s license there. I am currently 17 years old and, according to the road traffic office, I am allowed to drive light motorcycles with 125CC and 80km/h. If that is not the case, I ask them to correct me, I intend to purchase an Aprilia RS125. On the manufacturer’s side it says that this motorcycle can drive once 160, 120 and 80km/h. Are these different motorcycles, or a n and the same with different throttles?

So . I have next 1.5 RD 80 , disassembled , at home lying around .. but the engine is 2x with piston eater available . There is also a RD 250 , where “only” the gearbox is broken and the tank rusted through . Now I have heard that the old models of Yamaha are very compatible ..there I thought that I either: – the RD 250 a RD 80 transmission and tank miss – or the RD 80 the RD 250 motor .. (does the carburettor also have to be replaced ?) it is possible this part I just want to build a “fun-machine” and stay as cost-effective as possible. That various seals have to be replaced, ignition candle bought and work on the carburettor is clear to me. My father has the possibility to hone the cylinder in the work.. but the coating is the expensive. What do I have to do if I want to repair a piston-eater ? -buy a piston kit -buy new seals-cylinder honing and coating .. is that the Everything or other things are coming up?

hi hab ma ne question is the normal that ne rs open only 130 packs oda is there still something throbbed then,I know that of nen friend who has one who was faster and has also turned to 12000 fast his turns from 8000 fully slow up to 11000 ??