Category: Leichtkrafträder Forum

Hello together, in a few months I will be 16 and can therefore drive as far as I know a 125er throttled, unfortunately I have no experience/explanation with motorcycles and do not know which is suitable KTM I generally like very well the motorcycle would be for use on the country road and occasionally to the terrain. The motorcycle should cost under 3000EUR. I thank in advance for every answer. MFG

Hello I will do the practical exam for class a1 in the next week and would like to drive a honda cbr 125 or a yamaha later. now my question is: what does it cost to register the motorcycle one or half a year? I have heard that the insurance for a 125 machine should be very expensive if it is throttled to 80 kmh. I will now drive a simson s50 b2 but in summer I want to buy a 125 machine. but if all this is so expensive I can yes I hope someone can continue to help. mfg. leonhard

Hello community I’ve been asking Ne who’s been busy for a long time. I’ve heard that a 125cc machine is better suited for short distances (15 to 20km) (because of consumption etc) like a large machine xxx -cc. ? How about it now that you’re not so the scooter type , and now just as bsp , not your big machine (if you have one ) or your car doesn’t want to use because you find motorcycle riding better . Or a student or azubi who just has the a2 My question is now if it would be worth buying any 125 machine (zb yamaha wr 125 x) for this track or yet a larger machine. A 50 scooter is rather bad since the track is mostly about land. (I know what I’m talking about, because across country with a 50 scooter is not a sugar slug). I would like to know your opinion on this topic, and would like to wuss And I apologize in advance to those who consider this question pointless. And a thank you to those who answer me mfg tooyotal

Hello people, short the most important; -have the A1-50 bill, -live in Switzerland, -be 16 and 5 months, -be skilled, and work very, very much, -I love speed, but only who I control, -have access to various chemicals and materials, -my parents make the worst pressure to get me a rideable kit. So, I don’t know yet which motorcycle I should get, because it should be robust, little drinking, and great driving, cheap in the occasionk to be on and cheap in maintenance and have the possibility to operate tuning without absolutely impermissible modifications of the existing components. I finally get safely ned frame through the MFK which I cut. I don’t know which motorcycle corresponds to that. But I find the Supermoto and Enduros very attractive, because I will often drive steep slopes, dirt roads and forest paths, but also main road (Tempolimit 80km/h). -WAES, cold Lsdeluft compressor, a lot of charge air racing, because of the multiload LED lights instead of power eaters Halogen lamps -water cooling replaced by an approved (best of the larger 125 or 250 model) to keep the engine cool. -Protection rods around the tank and engine racing manifold, here must probably be on a low cost. -Adapted spray protection (run often field paths + rain = shit… -(if necessary) Better brakes -tuning CDI – if legally possible, otherwise overwrite the original ones. Tuning which I want to carry out afterwards, and is 100% illegal. -Nitromethane, therefore the better cooling and the standard low consumption, because with NM it rises to up to 200%. On control “Ouhh, then that was probably the wrong canister, I probably de n caught for the 1:6 racing gasoline…” -Removing the catalyst, having it lasered cleanly by the buddy (industrial welding – aircraft production), leaving content out and again to lasers looks like off-the-shelf. Has he also done at the time with his motorbike, various times got in control, all always baffled and amazed, but never noticed anything. -Piping cutters, I hope I can get out with the CNC even more extensive 5ccm. Now my question, you think, that you can so out of a used n “cheap” 50ccm motorcycle gets a brisk kit that also attracts well, can overtake and sprint, but also has a good top speed (at least 80). What kind of motorcycle would you use? Gruss D.R. Oh, Nitromethane I get for free. No a little sick question, but you can also take a SK4+ protective vest instead of a back armor – my stepbrother creates in private security

Huhu in my search for ner 125er I happened to come across the Kreidler Supermoto 125. Looks really great, equipment is also fine (USD fork, wave brake disc, …). Motor is from the Suzuki VanVan 125, price is ~2000€. What do you think of the bike? How is it throbbed? Does someone already have it here? If yes, please post some experiences here Here are some more pictures:http://www.directupload.net/file/d/1024/gW7nghmn_jpg.htmhttp://www.directupload.net/file/d/1024 /oENUYXUW_jpg.htmhttp://www.directupload.net/file/d/1024/jxc4ktxb_jpg.htm here the link to the manufacturer: http://kreidler.net/?content=details&category=10&detail=10 MfG

In my mopped I have to adjust the valves (kipp lever), to do this I removed the control chain cover to measure the seal. Unfortunately, when screwing in, the left screw has broken, although (!?) I have set a torque wrench to 10 Nm (as in the workshop manual). Instead of the screw being stuck in it at some point, it rotated further and further until it was torn off at some point. The torque wrench has been locked during the whole procedure. I clicked, it also felt like clearly under 10 Nm. Now my questions: 1.) What can be the reason that the screw has broken off? What was wrong with my approach? How can I avoid such a thing in the future? 2.) How can I get the beast out again? A small part (see pictures) is still above, estimated 1-2mm. For a pincher probably too little, besides, I fear that I will break the rest of it and it is over. Therefore, my consideration, one of the bolts was In the meantime, a two-component adhesive such as Uhu Endfest would be possible. Another possibility seems to be to mill a slot into the screw with the Dremel. The classic left-hand turnout is too difficult for me in this situation. Greetings Iumak

Hello I was thinking of building a Scorpion exhaust to my CB125F. The reasons for this are that I a) already have problems with a strongly rusting exhaust, b) I just don’t like the sound and c) would not hurt a little more power. According to Scorpion, the exhaust brings about 1.5 hp more power, less weight and a much deeper sound. There is the exhaust either with E number or without 150€ extra charge. Is it really ok for whom the bike has more horsepower and is lighter than in the papers who is an E number? Must a software update or something like that be recorded? I have many questions and hope for an answer. Edit: I think it’s smarter to link the exhaust I mean.http://scorpion-auspuff.de/…B-Killer-EG-ABE-E-No-E-Identifier.html

Servus together, I wanted to ask if someone can recommend me a 125 Supermoto or Enduro. I’m doing the A1 driver’s license and now I’m looking for a suitable moped. I thought of a price up to approx. 4000 Euro, whereby I will probably look around for a used vehicle. Basically, the motorcycle should not have less than 15 ps (there are also those with 10 or 12 ps like the Kreidler Supermoto), a good passage (so for a 125er ) and h old look good. And one more question? Can anyone tell me anything else about the Hyosung xrx 125 lc and the Rieju Marathon 125, or does any of you drive one of these? Can you recommend them to me? Thanks already in advance! ps: I am 15 (in 2 weeks 16) and 173 cm tall

Hello, unfortunately, the many entries in the forums don’t really bring me any further… I have had the 1B since 1987, i.e. today’s A1, 125ccm to 15hp without speed limit. For years I have been thinking about making the big, open motorcycle driver’s license A, but this prevented me from having the seemingly high costs. Some people, who after years of car driver’s license retook the A, gave me prices of 1000€ and more. It seems that since 2013 it is cheaper to make the A when you already have the A1. Is that right? – must you prove your 125 driving skills for this, by long-term registration of a 125 or similar? I had never owned a 125er, only occasionally borrowed one. – is for the A-training for the driving hours / driving test protective clothing besides the helmet (is available) obligatory and if yes, which one? Which one must also count at the costs. – with which costs of the F ahrschule incl. exam you have to calculate? Are there costs from 400 to 500€ realistic? That would be a lot cheaper than the costs I had originally expected. Thanks for the explanation…

Hello.. I’m new here and please for advice, am desperate. So.. I bought a RR a few days ago, used.. In the invoices it says : -new ignition -new spark plug -new piston -new cylinder So this, so first with a friend a few things checked.. Carburettor cleaned, air filter is ok, intake stop ok, cylinder removed, seals and pistons checked spark tested, other spark plugs used, couple times pushed around block, power is enough there, sound sounds auc h good, but it just doesn’t start. I really don’t know what it can be anymore. The engine is a Minarelli Am6. 2-stroke,water cooled Can anyone possibly help me or make assumptions ? Greeting