Category: Mercedes Sprinter, Vario, X-Class & more Transporter Forum

Hello to everyone. I have used a Hymerwohnmobil integrated with engine 519 CDI. The vehicle has a warranty until Oct. 2014. When the vehicle is accelerated and the engine is warm you hear an additional noise. It sounds like something is rubbing or grinding. Three workshop visits at different Mercedes houses did not help. All companies have confirmed the disturbing noise but finally defined it as the state of the art. Who knows the problem and can keep me going. lfen? I am grateful for any answer. hweinz

Hello Forum I’m new and have a problem with my Sprinter Sprinter w906 bj 2007 315 CDI My problem, my Sprinter had a motor damage where a 313 CDI manual transmission was originally congested. Now I bought myself a similar Sprinter 315 CDI and namely an ambulance with an accident at the front right. I just ran the complete engine including transmission (automatic) 9000 km and of course all control units and harness (motor harness and interior harness) b a my Sprinter installed. Now the problem I can turn the ignition key and it works as far as everything, but if I turn the key to position 3 so start, nothing comes. However, the tachometer ( ABS. ESP) shows permanently. My question is you have to put back after an accident where the belts have triggered, the car somehow?

Good morning I bought an old sprinter from Bj 2001 as it turned out the dig start problems. The car ran 170 thousand. What I have changed so far was the battery with 95 Ah(the starter turns but it starts after 10 to 20 try and with a 110ah battery immediately), the fuel filter with the black return valve and the green seals were there in the fuel system air bubbles. And now I don’t know any more. What I have tried with startpilot doesn’t want to roll down the mountain in the 2nd gear clutch, he doesn’t want to let go. But when the engine is running it doesn’t cause any problems he doesn’t pulls it off on his own. Regardless of whether it’s cold or warm.

Hello guys, I would like to know how I open the rubber cover, which reaches from the switchbar/stick down to the cabin floor, without breaking it. Reason is that underneath is a screw or clamp loose. At full throttle, which is already quite often with my 409 RV this loose part vibrates and makes a really annoying sound. Can someone help me there, Gruss, Michael

Hello together, After several visits a car master workshop the errors come again and again (motor control lamp) Can someone give me advice on how to get my Sprinter back on track? It’s already running, but only up to 120 km/h and of course no power. a couple of photos are included (what diagnostic device has shown today. I hope someone can help there…… Thank you and many greetings AP

Hello everyone, my Sprinter 316er from 2002, 272000km does not take any more gas in the range 1500-2000 revolutions, I drive and he always does as if I had gone from the accelerator pedal, if I press the pedal further it comes again and runs cleanly at higher speeds, at the branch error memory was read out and found nothing. Also he has for 2 years a ticking noise from the engine control unit ( like relay switching ) and the driving light becomes light slightly bright and dark. The AGR valve, the brake light switch, rail pressure sensor and the gas pedal have already been changed, the LMM and the alternator are still from 2002, I ordered now both times and will change these. Does anyone else have a tip for me? Greetings

Hello, we have the problem with our Sprinter, that it comes irregularly and not reproducibly to a strong power loss, whereby the engine control light goes on. Only by repeatedly restarting the engine, the vehicle can be driven rationally again. The car was already several times in the Mercedes specialist workshop, where the error memory was read out (error throttle flap), and then several times! throttle flap, a sensor and the engine control unit were replaced. I have no idea of cars, but suspect that a cable break could be present here. A new wire harness would probably not be more economical, so I would like to measure the cables. Can someone help me with a schematic, or tell me which plug with pin placement (motor control unit?) the throttle flap is connected to?

Servus, following situation, Mercedes Sprinter 211 CDI Bj 2000 Idle full throttle sometimes it runs only up to 3000 regulates. when driving the same, sometimes it has no power, you drive in the 2nd gear, it accelerates up to 2500 then as if it regulates, you stay on the gas then after a short time it passes over and has full power again. At 100 km/h if you give full throttle the same, no e-power, then again full power. Turbochargers, pressure converters are already new in the vehicle. Tomorrow I let you read out. Does someone happen to have such a problem? Brake light switch works so far, can it still lie on the part?

Hello, got a new fire truck based on a Sprinter. Now we have a small problem, the brake assistant is not permanently switch off, before the operation the assistant manually shut down does not work either. However, when operating in situations that you have under control, but the assistant recognizes as threatening. It is not tingling if you overtake with blue and horn and the system initiates a full braking…. probably others have the problem with the Sprinter as I have read… https://mobil.rundschau-online.de/……stand-useless-herum-33088192

Hey, with the car (Spriter, BJ 2003, Sprintshift) both rear wheels are blocking. The front wheels are spinning without any problems. When I start and give a lot of gas, the car can be moved. However, only with approximately full throttle, connected with the following draughts. When the car moves noises come from the rear wheels (a short squeaking, sounds like the brake lining constantly and strongly presses on the brake disc. Had the car awarded, it probably drove to the yard without complaints and the problem occurred only on the last meters. I have already been a little busy with it. The rope of the hand brake is loose and all the components seem to be able to move freely. Also, the classic locking of the brake saddles I can actually rule out, the problem has occurred quite suddenly and there was no longer (even a short) standing time (had I checked before the braking test). It seems like on the brake system is a lot of pressure. The resistance from the brake pedal is very high and it is just a little bit down. But this does not change the brake force quite a bit. But the brake wheel has changed.