Category: Mercedes Sprinter, Vario, X-Class & more Transporter Forum

Hello, have bought a Womo Sprinter 318 CDi Built in 2007, first release only in 2014. Used Fz 2016. Starter battery 100Ah 810 Amp (En) brand new. Voltage is 13,3 V. Starter battery in the footroom in front of driver’s seat is exposed and voltmeters are clamped. E-Box is switched off (which controls the living area with supply battery 100Ah / 810 Amp (En)). When plugging in the ignition key and turning to the first level all symoble are correctly displayed. Vorglühsymobol also extinguishes. But voltage breaks down to 11.8 V and climbs slowly again to 12.3 V. Ignition keys turn to start the starters. Starter keys do not track. Just a click of the starter relay is to be heard. Starter relay has already been exchanged against a new one. How can I find out which component causes the voltage drop? Greeting Axel PS: I clamp a CTEK 5.0 charger over the remote start point and waits for the starter battery 14.

Hi, the winter is around, it gets warmer and my problems are back again. From about 20 degrees outside temperature it goes sporadically into the emergency run. Mostly after fast driving. The warmer it is the faster the emergency run is there. I have the impression. When he drives it super. The whole winter no problem. So far I always had P2263 (charge pressure deviates from the target value). Last week now still P0103 (too high signal from the LMM) LMM was exchanged already last year. I bite my teeth at the problem now already two years – therefore I am grateful about every help The last found small leak in the charging air AGR system was probably also only catch I had already reported about this under this similarly stored topic:https://www.motor-talk.de/…/PostJump.html… As already reported, almost everything has been done:- charging pressure control valves for wastegates and pressure control – underpressure hoses – underpressure box bypass AGR cooler – including pressure gauges between Turbobs

Hello together, my friend and I are thinking about buying an extended camper/van. Now we ask ourselves, however, which model would be the best/reliable one. Currently we have the following model in view: Mercedes Sprinter (length 5.9m) year 2006 906 KA 35; 315cdi switch 272,000km The following was still in one of the advertisements for the van: We have overtaken the engine general (approx.300€): Cooling water hose including clamp renewed! Cylinder head gasket including accessories renewed! Chain tensioner renewed! Cooling water pump renewed! Engine fan renewed! What do you have to pay attention to with the model or should you rather keep your hands on it and, for example, look at a 316CDi? Are the many km of the model problematic? A 313CDi from 2011 with 67,000km and a Peugeot Boxer with 163km from 2018 we also have a look at it, but the two are twice as expensive and unfortunately are a bit above the budget. A work colleague said, rather to look at an Iveco Daily, because they would like to share it with you all!

Hello. Can someone help me? I broke a Sprinter Hab there head seal. I degraded head and the distributor injection pump is overturned from the chain. So don’t know where the pump has to stand. I degraded vacuum pump and see only a small hole about 6 mm diameter. Can someone please help me. Thank you very much.

Hello, unfortunately I can’t find any information about the torque with which the bus screws with which the brake discs are attached to the hubs are tightened. There’s a video of the “bus technology” channel on Youtube, there’s talk of 85NM. Can that be, someone knows? Greetings!

Hello together Our viano 2.2cdi 150ps automatic squeaks are a few weeks out of the engine room direction turbo.(see audio) Turbo has already been renewed because it had a little game just like V-belts and tensioning and steering wheels. Also all slugs have been renewed but it just doesn’t want to go away. That always happens with approx.2000 revolutions in D R and neutral. Can anyone give us a tip what that would be.

Hello T1 driver, I drive a 308 D (602) long+high, with 79 hp and a zGG of 3,200 kg. The usual 2.0 t are registered as trailer load. I would like to register a higher trailer load now. The trailer coupling itself “can” according to D-value calculation 2.5 t. In the past this was easy: you went to the TÜV, had a limitation of the climbing capacity to 8% and had its higher trailer load. According to GTÜ examiner that is no longer enough. However, I have been waiting for this for 4 weeks, and it is questionable whether MERCEDES will ever come from it. Then there is the possibility of an expert report from companies specializing in trailer load increases (SK, Scholz, MAD … and how they all are called). However, since my van was placed on the market with Blanko letter and by a single purchase (in the papers the TSN is “encumbered”, all companies have canceled. Although the car is identical to other 3 08 D is, because of “000000” it is considered to be “not available in our databases”. Then there is the possibility of a single acceptance at a technical inspection center (TÜV in the old, DEKRA in the new federal states). That is now my last hope. I would like to explain to the examiner that there are other 308D with increased trailer load. So I ask: Does anyone drive a 308 D (type 602) with more than 2.0 t registered trailer load? Greetings Jürgen

Hello dear forum and good evening to all of you! My camper: Year of construction 1987 has the following tire size in the registration certificate Part 1: 15.1: 185R14C-M8PR 15.2 185R14C-M8PR Which rims with tires (complete wheels) – best all year round tires or summer tires – can you recommend for this? if necessary what alternatives can I use? Total weight of the vehicle F.1 2800 kg F.2 2800 kg 7.1 1500 kg 7.2 1680 kg 8.1 1500 kg 8.2 1680kg Sincere regards and many thanks for your help in advance. 🙂

Moin, I have installed in my Sprinter 312D (Carthago Mondial 41R, OM602.980) a completely overhauled engine and have a question regarding the values of the injection. According to the documents, the start of the injection should be 1.5 ± 1° kW at a coolant temperature of 80 °C. I have a Gutmann Mega Macs 77 and in the parameters the setpoint value is 0.3 °KW. The actual value of the current engine is between -0.6 °KW and 0.6 °KW. I am not sure if the first engine is running. The engine runs well, starts immediately and does not cause any problems. I hope you can help me. Thank you in advance.

Hello, I have for some time the following problem with my 313 Sprinter BJ. 06/2000 undzwar a while ago sporadically the abs and asr started to light up again on Erlisch after. Since the beginning of the week they light up now permanently. I then had the brake light switch replaced but the problem persists, then had the error read out with a known and the error is motor or relay pump faulty ! The error also comes after the delete again. that a mistake in the ABS control unit or at the hydroblock itself ? Cable break I also checked but everything ok.