Category: Mercedes Sprinter, Vario, X-Class & more Transporter Forum

Hello Sprinter-Spezis, since my 313 CDI is a bit annoying to me because of its unwillingness and I need a quick solution (also because of lack of time), here the question in the round, if something speaks against, if I turn on the glow plugs by hand by means of push buttons and extra relays, i.e. glow relays and what else is in it except bursting. My question is above all prophylactic, if I do not find on the fast the error and not the right parts Glow candles are new! Thanks already in advance!

We are on the road with our Sprinter 319 from 2014 with womo construction and have, like with our predecessor car, a 2006 crafter the same problem: After a operating time of 2-3 hours the blower noise changes and there is no air out of the openings. Blower runs audible and air cools (ventilation slots are ice cold) After a short turn off of the blower then it goes again for half an hour, after a longer break it goes again for 2-3 hours. 3 years ago with the crafter went to the workshop, wanted to calculate 2 full working days (extension cockpit kpl ), but could not tell us if you would find the error. Without climate with dog in Croatia is not possible, therefore we ask for a tip. That must be a well-known problem ?? Thank you dear greetings Jörg + Sandra

Hello I brought my Sprinter into a workshop because he jumped badly. The workshop changed the light plugs better but it didn’t, then they disassembled the whole engine and now he starts up and goes out again after about a minute. The workshop is by the way already over a month and I can not use the car. Can I sue the workshop somehow or have the car repaired at the expense of the workshop where else ? many thanks

Hello together, I’m desperately looking for a list of the relays to identify the responsible SprintShift relay because I have to replace it. I find a lot of hints and instructions but unfortunately no calendar. With two photos of the installed electronics under the driver’s seat. Thank you for your help! Joerg

Moin. It’s about the following vehicle. Mercedes Sprinter 163Ps 1314/BHS 188000km mileage BJ 2010 The last 1 1/2 years all injectors were renewed one after the other. The last two only 5 weeks ago. These were leaking and sprayed diesel to the top. After that there were charging air problems and we found that the intake bridge was leaking and a standing bolt was torn off from it. Everything repaired. Complete suction and AGR cleaned. After that, unfortunately, it is always in the cold start. Now we have found that AGR always stands at 100%, so it is always fully up and no longer adjusted. In the cold start it should only be 20-30% opening. The AGR valve does not clamp, the adjuster is not broken, the AGR cooler is tight. Has someone had an idea about this and has had the same problem before? We believe this by now due to the too high pressure, by always fully open AGR, it has made the suction pressed / leaked!?! Important would be e vll still that the first owner then drove to Mercedes and they deactivated the NOX sensor because there were probably problems with it!? But is everything Tüvkonform and the ASU was no problem last year. Thanks and greetings

Hello dear forum, since I unfortunately had to separate myself from my T3 due to various rust problems I have been looking for something new for half a year. since I came across the Mercedes 310D… mileage 80.500 km vehicle condition – undamaged vehicle first registration September 1990 power 95 hp gearbox Manuell HU until October 2025 oldtimer registration 2021 camper registration 2016 old fire brigade bus, long version with all windows up to 3 pin-sized rust sites have A new base plate with sound insulation under it has already been installed. Among other things, the following parts have been renewed: Hydropunch, Cardan shaft with new middle bearing, brake calipers and hoses, exhaust, tyres. Injection nozzles, steering and gearboxes have been calibrated or repaired. The body has been overhauled, with new wheel runs in the rear, new side parts and a new floor plate. both front fenders and the front mask have also been renewed. 15,500 Euro Would he like to have for it… my question for you now would be if you still have recommendations what I should pay attention to if I go again and… if you would generally advise me not to buy it or is it worth buying it yet? Spare parts will not be any more:S what do you say about it?

Hello all, on my Sprinter 313 CDI (OM651) the yellow MKL has been flashing for a few days. From time to time the engine also goes into the emergency run, i.e. speed up to 3000 rpm etc. This can usually be fixed by restarting the engine. About 2 weeks ago the fault memory (using SD) read in about this way : P04091C – position sensor exhaust gas recirculator has electrical errors. Voltage value outside the permissible range. P069716 – Power supply 3 of the sensors has electrical errors or un P034431 – Position sensor of the inlet camshaft has sporadic malfunction P252B29 – oil sensor has malfunction P212714 – Position sensor 2 of the inlet pedal has short circuit after mass P063878 – throttle damper has malfunction After deleting the errors these occurred several times after a short drive. For 2 days now I have received the following errors. P010129 – Charging air system – Offset drift under motor load 1 P213862 – Values of the position sensors of the inlet pedal P226300 – Charging pressure differs from the target value. Since today, I still have : P211271 – throttle valve clamps closed. Stelllink blocks P012315 – Position sensor 1 of the DK has short circuit after plus. P010714 – suction tube pressure sensor has short circuit after mass. Throttle valve learning with SD fails by the way. As I have read, probably with the DK also the (measured) charge pressure and exhaust back pressure, etc. plays a role here, I have with SD also times the DPF looks more closely. Level of filling is (allegedly) 141 %, simulated soot content is 9.3g. Manual regeneration runs through at least 30 minutes without causing a change in the values. Due to the variety of different errors I do not know exactly what to pay attention to at the moment. Is it perhaps an electrical error (possibly MSG defective?) Maybe try to clean the DPF first? Thank you for tips!

Hello to all Vario drivers and connoisseurs of these vehicles. My question to you: I saw at a MB Vario 615D-KA from 2003 that there were NO pressure gauges for the compressed air display in the amature board. There are usually 2 round pressure displays under the tank and water temp. display. Does one of you know this version or specification? What is special about this braking system (advantages/disadvantages)? I would be grateful for all the information.

Hello, I bought the MB 1.5 years ago as a camper. The owner said at that time he had the stand gas set up, because the engine of course in the cold start with little speed strongly vibrates. In short, the stand gas rotary switch device was built away. And on the whole gas rod the stand gas can not be turned down. The engine has in warm run approx. estimated heavy 3-4000 revolutions, always runs constant and reliable, but it is really very powerless. rmal…. 65ps with RV set up(alcoves). So it must be the ESP. Ask with please for help: Is it the membrane ??????? Workshop said change costs up to 1000€ due to ESP test stand setting, etc. !?!?? Now I just regulate at the traffic light with the switch off the speed down ???, goes also…. but so next week to Andalusia, only if it has to be…. Can the membrane repair not be cheaper? And is it broken? Stand gas adjustment screw is not available at the ESP? s you think, thank you for answers !

Yes hello again, I did a bit of general overhaul this year with my venerable 86er T1 with clou construction. Ne new paint finish allowed, brakes overtaken, exhaust pipe, the two belts, V-belts and I don’t know what the other is called. And last week I changed the transmission oil and the oil in the rear axle. And the front axle, the four lubricating nipples lubricated. It certainly has here in the forum some, or several T1 specialists. a long time ago an old Mercedes workshop veteran said, “the things are driving forever, you just have to make sure that they are always well lubricated and…” And that’s exactly what I don’t remember, I forgot what he said. That’s why the more general question here. What is to be paid special attention to with the T1. With lubricating he probably means the four lubricating nipples on the front axle. Is there other points from your experience? I would be grateful for your help, then would be the subject of overhaul by 😉 Michael and nice greetings from the south