Category: Mercedes Sprinter, Vario, X-Class & more Transporter Forum

Hello in the round. I own a Sprinter 313 CDI year 2011 and 112.000km. This morning on the highway at cozy 110km/h at once strong power drop paired with clacking noise and bright smoke from the exhaust. Engine was immediately shut down and kept on the side strip. A restart was not really possible, because he apparently did not want to ignite on all cylinders. I then dragged it to me. Now I have read out the error memory. with a software that only shows exhaust-relevant errors. I don’t have anything else for Mercedes (see photo). Errors P0087 and P2BAC. Both static, so permanent. I assume the first error is the actual problem and the second one is a follow-up error. I let the engine cool down and then tried to start again, but it runs very unevenly and as soon as you give a little bit of gas it starts to nail strongly and moves immensely in the engine bearings. Is there any problem or solution that I can best check the components in the area of injection and rail or have had and solved similar problem? Say hello to Mathias.

The following I drove on Wednesday a long tour 450 km from time to time back with my Sprinter 316 cdi bj 2016. On the way back 50 km before Hamburg the coupling failed on the motorway at a speed of approx. 100 km/h. That means aisle was still inside in the 6. However, the clutch pedal was completely without effect. I drove of course to the right. I also noticed a bad smell. Mercedes-Benz emergency service called, since the Sprinter was only bought a month ago with Young Stars Transp now towed at the Mercedes Benz workshop I hear from the master the following statement. as already discussed by telephone, this damage picture is a violent damage. We cannot make any statement why and in what context this damage has occurred. A technical defect on the vehicle is obviously to be ruled out. ‘The clutch has been overheated very strongly, so that the clutch surface has fused with the flywheel. D the clutch surface is torn off from the fixed part which sits on the transmission input shaft. It was so high temperatures in the gearbox housing that both the crankshaft sensor and the ventilation of the central outcrop melted. I have never driven the Sprinter overly strained never high tours. I have also told the master that this is what he has never seen before. Young stars guarantee does not work. How can something like this happen? Can the damage to the kupp the Sprinter was previously a rental car. Costs 250€. I will, of course, still have an application for Kullanz jobs.

Hello, I have a dolgent problem: Vario 816, year 2007 with pneumatically supported hydraulic brake… The directly coupled air presser starts around every 60 seconds (and then compacts about 10 seconds) – even if I only roll without braking. ! It is a combined controller/dryer from KNORR, type LA 8201 – so with separate regeneration pressure tank (see pneumatic schematic). So the presser starts up, builds up the pressure of about 10 bar and then switches on with Ent a relatively loud hissing – and then it continues to soak from the silencer until the presser starts again at a good 9 bar. That means that the air is now taken out of the operating system after the regeneration tank has been blown off, right? I have built in a similar (used) controller/dryer – but it is exactly the same thing… It makes absolutely no sense that the Re-Dryer is not the same. This happens only if the engine is running and even if I don’t brake! In the case of the standing vehicle (whether with or without the hand brake), there is almost no pressure loss after 1 day: Therefore, all components are probably sealed. What changes in the pressure-carrying system if the engine runs against the engine down??? Is this possible?? What do you have? Vario driver for an impression? How is that with you? Greetings

Hello together. I would have asked a question about a splinter 2.2 diesel from 2012. The car got the Agr valve renewed. Mil lamp was on and there were bugs Agr valve switched off and Agr def. Drinne. (I can’t say exactly error text since I first went to the car after that). Didn’t delete and Agr valve was renewed(shei.. work). Then we started the car, mil flashes now only and the error p040000 agr flow is faulty. The engine does not have a load pressure (max 2.1 bar) and exhaust gas counter pressure (max 2.6 bar) is still fully in use. Does the new agr valve have to be learned at daimler? Or did someone have such a fall?

Good evening. I have a throttle clapping from my car mechanic lying here, I think he said it’s from a Vito. The electronics probably reports a mistake, if I could look at it as an electronician… Well, the pictures say everything. It’s probably water or the like penetrated into the control, there’s probably nothing more to save, everything in sticky silicone shed, bahh. Unfortunately Mercedes is probably not able to deliver a new throttle flap… Looking for a new use If you enter the number “00005320C2” printed on the electronics, you will find only AGRs. It looks like the AGRs are apparently controlled exactly by the same electronics!? Could make sense. Here are some impressions:https://www.google.com/search?… Can you just build the electronics from the AGRs on the throttle flap. Has anyone ever done this before? Does the electronics have to be programmed accordingly? It looks very identical to the throttle valve, which is installed on the AGRs, right? Thanks for your help, Dominik

Hello, my so far reliable sprinter now starts “from time to time” badly. i.e. the starter spins about 6 to 10 seconds, anyway something stirs up and it starts. It can’t lie on the battery. Injection pump or????? What is the usual error here!? Thanks. LG Mobilhome

Good evening Foristii, I’m currently having a problem with the on-board electrics of my sprinter cdi211 from 2003. In regular irregular intervals the fuse No. 8 drives me crazy. It supplies the interior lighting (both front and back in the loading zone) , the cigarette lighter and in my case also the radio. I can’t yet understand what circumstances make the fuse burst, sometimes it lasts three days, sometimes all is good at night and the next Morg What have I done? First of all, I can tell you that I have installed a shelf for my tools, but cable calls have not been hit by my fittings, which I have already checked before. I dismantled, cleaned all the lamp bodies and provided me with new pears. I removed, cleaned and installed the door contacts. The cigarette lighter serves as a charging station for my phone. my question to the current freaks: can I, even if there is no electricity, measure somehow whether one of the current-conducting cables has a mass closure? As a carpenter and organ builder I have at least a basic understanding of (of) electricity, but the low-voltage range is, I often heard, like a book with seven seals. A rather daring thought drives me around, because somehow I have the feeling that if the Outside temperatures are high, as in the last two days, then I can almost expect the fuse to fly at some point. What do you think, how can I limit the error, what can I measure how, how can I proceed to get things on the edge? It greets Johannes from the north of Hesse

Hello together, I recently fulfilled my dream and bought me a Mercedes Sprinter 308 ( 903.6 P ). It is a former DHL vehicle with a Koegel case body. I bought this vehicle for 5,000,00 €. The condition was ok – no rust hardly dents. Ideal for my conversion to a camper. Now I have a victory problem and this is the following : Every time I want to start and put the Sprint Shift in A and I just push the accelerator slightly it bangs at the rear of the vehicle This problem is getting worse and worse now, and since the latest, the ABS lamp and a kind of tire lamp are shining – to do this, it is sprinting out of the automatic mode now and again into the manual mode and I have to switch once from N to A that the automatic transmission is switching again. Now I was at a free workshop – they have s I looked at the cardan shaft and the hardy disks and told me that it is probably the rear axle deflection and it is an expensive story. I was, of course, shocked because you often get such a part under 1,500 euros. I know that from our nice Mercedes dealer who told me right away that for one and to expand still some costs come because the whole axis has to get out and and and and… Now comes the crack point, I just wanted to get a differential at the scrap than me the nice master said that it can’t be the defferential and he assumes that it’s the converter. I immediately called mercedes and asked what a converter cosetes and the said with the car has no converter in this transmission and there can be a thousand things in the gearbox. Now I stand there and don’t know what I should do best and what it can be. Gear goes great motor runs great just driving and banging and jerking is the problem. has someone an idea what it can be – the vehicle is a former postal car so mostly urban traffic and raced drivers. I am grateful for every answer. LG

Hello, I have a problem with my 206 OM 615 220D. I replaced the alternator and found and repaired a cable fire of the battery cable in the wire harness. Unfortunately I forgot to disconnect the battery, which I had previously disconnected and had hung for a short time again for a measurement. When I wanted to isolate the fly cable, there was a short circuit through contact with the body, so I could fix the cable at the place again… stupid run n Everything is isolated, then I wanted to start the car and nothing happens. Neither the light bulb lights up after a certain time, nor is there any muck when the preglow system is triggered. Before everything went great. The fuses under the steering wheel are all in order, the work relay has been changed, unfortunately without success. At the starter 12V arrive. I have no idea what it is anymore, is there still somewhere else a fuse ? thank you for help

Moin moin together, I have a small concern and have already found a lot of it, but nothing leads to the goal. I have found the right audio 50 2.5 NTG. I just want to upgrade AUX. To do this I got an adapter with a jack at Amazonas which is simply clicked into the block C. The previous pin test did not bring anything then I found 2 others who are also without success. I also don’t get the radio switched to AUX. Kan n with someone how can I change the radio and which is the correct pin assignment? Currently I have pin 3,4 and 9,10 occupied. On my block are pin 1,3,7 and 9 already occupied. Can not find out what. Operation is still normal possible. On the radio is aux via diagnosis unlocked. For advice I would be grateful. I attach a picture of the radio. Ohja es sit a sprinter w906 Year of construction 2013