Category: Mitsubishi Carisma, Galant, Sapporo & Sigma Forum

Hello!!! I’ve been driving my Galant for about 2 1/2 years now. Never had problems, thanks to good care and preventive measures. For 3 – 4 months I have a start problem! At first I had to start about 20sec. and play with the gas until it finally sprang up. Then I noticed when I let the engine run cold before making out, I don’t have the problem afraid of it. Now that it has become outside colder, I have this problem all the time. o of staten: I start to start, after about, 10sec he starts to stutter slowly. Until he finally starts to start. When he starts, a huge smoke cloud comes out of the exhaust, in addition he also has flammable dropouts. When I then start (times without running warm) he also does not take the gas properly. As soon as the engine is warm there are no problems anymore. No ignition dropouts, no start problems everything runs perfectly. I just let all spark plugs wake up because I was hoping so that the problem disappears. do you have an idea of what this can be? will now not switch to suspected gasoline pump and co. mfg

Hello, I’m just doing a Meschanic Bedi cleaning with my car. It’s a Misubishi Carisma 1.8 GDI Bj 2004 138tkm. As I was known from the beginning to screw up the direct injection I thought I’d look at what it looks like with me. Unfortunately I wasn’t quite aware of this when buying a car otherwise I would have gotten the normal 1.6. Otherwise it’s going to be top (Bissl history)… the whole thing actually started with that he was idle from time to time too difficult n had to keep its idle speed in the warm state this was so at 300-400U U/min which is of course not so intoxicating. Then I looked at the spark plugs these stood under oil and were loose. First I thought the worst that the oil stripping rings are totally in the bucket and the oil squeezes itself the winch.The candleping image oiled and wasted. A car master I think it would be the Ventiel cover seal which I can not fully understand. ch new bolted in so far no problems except that those are a bit worn out. Then I got the idea to clean the throttle flap and now it looks good before the flap but behind it is on the whole suction bridge totally filled with oil coal with trouble and need I got the flap reasonably clean. I first thought it could come from the camshafts vent and got me an oil/water separator for the paint gun there I have to make first. (Here g) Today I took off the whole intake tube and as I was clear everything is covered with oil coal. The clock jump does not seem to take from the cam shaft ventilation but from a valve directly after the throttle flap this is completely muddy. Is it perhaps the exhaust gas return valve ? can you plug it off? not that I start to build everything apart again after 20tkm. Above all the question where does the oil come from? The oil cover is actually normal with the car and has improved greatly since I once felt with spelt oil.

Hallihallo Friends of the helping guild, I decided to turn my back on the German car manufacturers and buy a Galant Combi. What about the reliability of the cars?? What is the reliability of the engine? 2.4 GDI or prefer 2.5 V6?? What are the maintenance costs, and how much can you still make on the car yourself??? Technology of the engine?? Control chain, or belts? Valve adjustment?? How much can a Galant Combi from BJ 00 with less than 100000km still cost?? Does anyone have to sell you by chance?? I am grateful for every tip, hint and suggestion!! On what should one definitely consider with the car?? rust or wear parts or the like!?!?!?!! Thank you for your help, Martin

Hello and good evening, I am new here at the Mitsubishi Forum and would like to introduce myself very briefly. I have been driving a Mazda 323 P for 5 years and have been fond of it for a long time with a Mitsubishi Galant EA0 V6 sedan with manual transmission. In the near future I want to finally realize my dream and am currently getting more information about it. I am a car mechatronics technician and therefore am primarily interested in the “diseases” of the car. I just have to e Time and above all the “search function” used to list the weak points of the Galant. The list contains all quotations from this forum. If you think of any further points I would like to tell you this, or answer my few questions ;-). So, now the list: — Vulnerabilities — 1) Coupling (undersized for the car, therefore increased wear) 2) Brakes (undersized, increased wear) 3) Head seal 4) Rust (wheel runs, bonnet, sc White seams, motor suspension) 5) Camshaft Simmerring (whole) 6) Hydro shocks (knocking) Quotations: dd64400b-eac5-4806-bbc0-af0010fbf743

Hi guys, was in the workshop because I have extreme start problems. Had battery and spark plugs renewed and still problems Then I’m in the workshop. They have read out the memory and the camshaft position encoder is gone. But they said it’s not because of the start. Now they have measured the compression 1. 11 2. 9 3. 4 4. 6 Bar The statement of the workshop was engine damage. Strange is only when it is cold it starts in 9/10 cases without problems when it is warm then 1/10. At the same time I read here more often at GDI there’s no engine damage ?! He has now 205000 km down and got 4 months ago a new clutch. Would my beloved limo hate to give up. Can you do something there ?! Is the statement so correct ?! Cann’t this Vlt. But with what else to do ?! Carisma 1.8 GDI 122 PS 205000 km Bj 00 manual transmission

Servus people I had before to change the gear oil times from my carisma because he is totally cumbersome driving we bought it (about 2 years) and my question how to do this is whether there is also simply a drain screw in place or is that heavier and where or how do I have to fill the gear oil then again I do this for the first time? and now my second question is this a general chaff of the carisma that the illumination of the headlights is so bad I have j etzt already 100 watt birnen installed by phillips even stronger than the night breaker. Or is there maybe a remodeling headlight so Angel eyes tuning headlights that better illuminate??? Please only serious comments write stupid phrases I can pick up anywhere I don’t need here for. Greetings

Hello Leutz After I want to buy a Galant, almost bought a vehicle, I would need a small info, whether the action is mortz or is relatively manageable, to change the timing belts on the 2.0 with 136hp. Mechanics skills are available, so can come with expert simplistic. Taking part in the tension roller(s) is clear, OT markings is also clear………. what else should I watch out for? Any tips and tricks? I thanks already in advance and always bump-free Drive.

Hello driver! I had the problem with my first car for the first time, that the brake discs got an imbalance after a full braking. Makes itself noticeable by “flattering” when braking in the steering wheel. That was an Opel Corsa, so something small with simple massive brake discs. Now I have a Galant with decent force, which must be tamed if necessary. Now “flatter” the already again. Unfortunately after not even 10tkm. Think that we there bad (?- Becker-line) Schei Now a set of “Brembo ́s” is supposed to be installed. Now my question: How do I best brake that the discs do not forgive again (as fast) ??? After I learned at the Opel, I always when it went, e.g. when braking at the traffic light, let my car roll slightly further. So only minimally kicked the brake or just let it roll in cm-wise so that I do not have the discs in the “lack”… Is this a good way? And at all, I brake “better” a Al short and strong and pull the handbrake, for example, if I have to stop or if I blemse “better” long and tender and can then stand on it if the car should stop…? I thank you already for your experiences and tips. Greetings and thanks, Mario

Hello dear community. I hope that I can help someone here. The following problem has my baby. When I start the car in the morning the ABS light goes on and off again. After about 5-7 seconds it goes back to without the car moving. But that doesn’t always happen. When driving (when it’s off) it also comes sporadic. Mostly in right curves. But when it’s warm in the car it almost never comes. I have tried the following: ABS sensors and rings cleaned and All i.o. relays replaced. All plugs checked for corrosion, all i.o. I’m surprised only what it has to do with the interior temperature. Brake light switch has already been changed. Are there still ABS components or known weak points somewhere in the interior??? I’m already in despair. Sitting in the inner fuse box still fuses for ABS??? It’s a 97 Galant EA0 2.0l automatic. Otherwise the vehicle has no problems. Brakes are in order. for the help.

gude has the common but somehow not solved problem with the outgoing motor carisma 1,8 gdi 00 ́ usually the goes off: shortly after the start, when kicking, in the empty running rolling car, likes also in curves at the change of course. was recently with the Mitsu werkstadt which have broken me completely with empty running controller valve have made the car keep computer analysis nix determined test drive made nix (there are also days where time goes on net) then I did got a nice bill and they were talking to me you have cleaned up any sensors there?????? there are sensors in there????? well still a strange thing about the car when the climate is switched on in the empty run in the city goes down the speed and not high as cih would guess that. is it also due to the error above? now I want to claim your opinion and help thank you in advance