Category: Mitsubishi Carisma, Galant, Sapporo & Sigma Forum

Hello Mitsu driver! …specially the Gallant drivers. I recently renewed my chassis because shock absorbers were somewhat incontinent but mainly because my spring was broken at the front left 🙁 Now I wanted to have everything fixed again, i.e. carry out axle measurement… because they tell me that the track rods are firmly gammelten and thus no adjustment/correction is possible. Front as well as rear… Of course I got an offer to change the necessary components for the axles What’s wrong with me is that they want to extend the power steering on the “offer”?!?!?! Is that necessary? No matter, can someone give me a tip on how to get the corresponding parts running in order to have the axle measurement carried out? And is it possible to solve further use immediately? For further information: Front axle track by 0.27° out of the tolerance, fall 0.23°. And rear axle fall also by 0.27° out of the tolerance, track is correct. In how far are these who thank you for your help, say hello to Mario

au mann I google for hours and find no spare parts…with me the lower two handlebars are knocked out left back or the rubbers to the coach…or are there such spare rubbers that you can press in????

Hello dear community, I’ve been thinking about getting a Mitsubishi Galant (preferably advance) for some time now. Now I wanted to ask what engine you would rate me, 16V or V6 ? I’m talking about the following points: reliability, sound, possible (children) diseases that can occur and consumption (difference yes/no ?). Then I also wanted to ask what the difference between GDI and GLS is, have already read that you should leave your hands on the GDI better. W he looks there at the GLS ? Thanks already in advance

Good day together, I bought the vehicle mentioned above for the week. Condition inside TOP, engine for the age accordingly good. The paint is through, but no rust. My question on what do I have to pay attention to? Until then I noticed nothing, except: The door on the left was a bit strange when opening, so oiled etc. Door a few times.auf und zu bla Blub, all of a sudden she didn’t open (central locking, from the outside as well as inside. Well thought well, then she is at least to watch, I watch myself tomorrow in peace once more car opened because I wanted to take out something, and tested the door, it went on but did not lock in.?? OK in the rain just on the yard the disguise removed etc. From inside the door looked like new ?? However, I have to expand, so I think the whole closed once My question is, does it work best when I expand the “klink” then hook everything up ? The oil or fat that was made in there 26 years ago looks like amber, I think with the other doors also try to get to the closing mechanism and this time quite fat. Otherwise I didn’t notice. I wanted to make the filters now, oil, cooling liquid because the looks very shitty is a new cooler inside, because as I think the old one had burst at some point, or he had just rusted through. So my guess was a long time in Spain/Italy in the sun. Clear varnish goes off and a few hail damage ( or he stood on the Golf course) What else should I do? The automatic switches butter soft, even so very quiet and very comfortable.

Hello everyone! It’s about a Mitsubishi Galant 2000 TD GLS (66KW-90PS) Built 1999 – 140000 km The cooling water is pushed out of the cooling system while driving into the balancing tank, there is also a lot of pressure on the hoses. Effectively the system loses water. After 700 km of highway more than 1 liter of water had to be detected again. First guess was the cooler cover (was also changed). Next the cylinder head was removed, on cracked checked (head was tight). – no cracks, it was only planned about 0.20 mm). New ZKD was installed, new thermostat and new timing belts, with new ZK screws. After that the water level was fine, but still pressure was on the hoses. After 7 days he pushes the water back into the balance tank. Maybe someone successfully solved the similar problem with the model. PS: No oil in the water and vice versa! no white smoke when exhausting! engine does not overheat! both fans switch on n! Thank you very much for your help!!!

Hello, I have a problem since April 19 with my 1.8 Gdi Carisma of replacement04 70,000km If the outside temperature is +18 degrees and I start my car the FIRST time it runs completely unround and goes out from time to time. At the SECOND start immediately afterwards, it also runs a little unevenly leveled but relatively fast and stays on. After about 6h standing and re-starting, it runs again unround but remains on. Everything in between like 2,3 or 4h again starting is all s all right. I recently had an error in memory, misignition cylinder 3! Strangely, this error only occurs from +18 degrees, at +17 degrees everything is fine it runs without problems. Due to the error I had the coil replaced, I think I got a little better but not much. The DK is clean and shiny. I also had the DK sent in, it did NOT show any errors!! Can it be that the injection nozzle is defective? Does anyone know this problem? cht was sent in: spark plugs, ignition coil, coolant temperature sensor, LMM, DK. Valve / camshafts / cylinder head seal age-related water pump + timing belt, motor oil + filter and transmission oil I hope you can help me.

hello am new here.. say first of all halloooo!!! driving a 2.4 gdi galant bauj. 99 with 150ps. for some time lights up with me when my car is cold the oil pressure indicator. had to make due to the kilometers of oil change. few days went well and then it lights up again. but only until the oil has reached a certain temperature. then it goes out. oil level is completely ok. my idea would be that not the oil pressure sensor(or how that is called) is broken, but only spoiled. where to find I do the part exactly and can I just build it out and clean it out so easily or do I have to drain oil and then look up or what do you have for ideas?? thank you in advance

Hello, I’m back.. once I talked to you about our new Lancer.. to my satisfaction.. Now we have another problem.. the old car – Carisma, which now drives the daughter.. does not, if you want to take the reverse gear… at the beginning.. have you tried a few times and it went.. now does not want any more.. ( An expert said, new gears should go… and says of price between 500-600€ can that be true??? Is the car still to be saved? the daughter is in the move..and so something..does all plans go through each other (Can you help me??? Give advice ? why.. doesn’t the gang go anymore? what can it be?? Helpeeee :..(((((((((

Fagrzeug: carisma 1.8 gdi 125ps Bj 98 manual gearbox Moin moin. With the carisma of my father-in-law, the return cycle no longer goes in. I looked at the thing today and found that if you press the lever on the gearbox by hand and hold it tight It goes somewhat. Unfortunately, I found nothing where you could do something, my also the ball head has some game. Can you adjust something and there are replacement sockets for the string on the gearbox? Everything looks good, vehicle has only 45000tk on it. I read that it is a Renault gearbox to the not gdi and that the jacks are often there, but to the gdi I did not find anything.

Servus, I’d like to find out if / how to get a grip on the infamous GDI problem. It’s a well-known phenomenon that people with problems appear in such web forums, while those without problems keep their edge and drive happily around, which may make the picture look distorted and worse than it is. Therefore, I’d like to ask for a brief feedback from people whose GDI has never played around, or the “the” Probl Although I am interested in the Pajero Pinin, I first post the request here, because the Carisma community seems to me to be much bigger. In this context, I would not only be interested in the usual symptoms (round idle, loss of power, jerking, start difficulties) but also spare parts prices, specifically it was said in an older post that the “high-pressure fuel pump” is not sufficiently durable and cost as spare part 1000 Euro.